Please don't do this. You really can't put it 2 feet to the right through the wall where it won't cost $1000 to fix in the future?

Also, attempting to drill a hole without power tools by using a screw is likely to either end in frustration or a giant split in the wood.

Don't dig into repairing the motor. Just replace the whole thing. Far less trouble.

well, maybe the spring should have come first...more deadly and quicker...??? But a leaking toilet.....pretty serious too. Hind sight....

Anyone qualified to give good advice for this person would instantly recognize that as deadwood, not a stud. A stud will sit perpendicular to the drywall instead of parallel. As an engineer, you should know this.

If it’s per bag, fill large bags.

I drive 30 minutes to dispose of rubble because it’s better than burying it.

Saving a bag in the corner of your lawn for when you do rubble will probably be unoticeable, but digging up your yard or a permanent hole to bury rubble will fuck up future plans. Don’t let lazy dictate your actions.

​

First, I would not attempt adjusting the springs yourself if you don't know what you're doing. It's very dangerouus, those springs are under a lot of pressure. I'm surprised you didn't ask the inspector or the garage door guy. But to answer your question, I would remove some of the current insulation as long as you could even it out, otherwise just replace it altogether with lighter insulation.

Thanks for all the responses everyone!👍🏻

As usual I think I was trying to over engineer the problem and make it so that an elephant could walk on it but it seems general consensus is that a simple baton running under the stud wall but overhanging the gap with some screws on both sides of the join into the baton should suffice.

I’ll probably still put a couple of triangular wedges in anyway for my own peace of mind as I’m a bit ocd about jobs being solid, but very much appreciated, thank you! 🙏🏻 🍻

I’d just “picture frame” the inside of the square and add a center brace to prevent bowing; the frame gives you all good screw points. Good luck.

Thanks. Yes, I fully expect that my cat will refuse to use the flap out of pure spite.

IPC 2018 removed air gaps for residential dishwashers

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IPC 2018 removed residential dishwasher air gaps from code. They aren't required in most states

I’d cut that shit right out and deal with the absorbency and gravity deficiencies later. The worst that can happen is the wall will no longer absorb as much gravity from the air and floats away to space because it’s no longer properly anchored. You can fix that problem with wall anchors above the cut and some caulk on the cut end to keep the gravity from falling out of the 2x4. Kitty gonna love the door. Good luck.

The dreamless slumber

Hear that? My eyes rolling so hard into my skull. Seriously dude, what difference will a homeowner changing an air gap to a high loop on a damn dishwasher make? Oh, the Humanity, the world will crash down if the county residential code for a dishwasher discharge air gap isn't met. Give me a break.

Worst case, if the springs can't be replaced with stronger ones, get some weights, a couple of pulleys and paracord, and use it to create counterweights.

Not necessary. I put in an air gap on my dishwasher when I first got my house and read that they were supposed to be better than a high loop. Removed it when I replaced my laminate countertops with quartz and haven't had a problem since then. When I re-ran the drain line after the countertop installation, I noticed the dishwasher had a high loop built into it, so you may not even have to do one yourself.

Any backflow is going to be minimal and will only happen normally when you're putting gallons of water down the drain at once, then will be pushed out the next time you run the dishwasher. As long as you're not putting big chunks of food down the drain, which you shouldn't be doing anyway, you'll be fine.

Molly bolts?

Smart arse

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You need to look at the building code before commenting.

Untrue, mine broke when it was being closed, midway up. Loud and a little scary. Probably 25 years old, something that should have been replaced.

No. Engineer.

But everyone skilled in the trades or not can learn the basics of structural integrity and such.

Even lego structures teach a lot about what can be removed and what will bring the house down.

I mean... Even 2x4 studs 16 to 24 inches apart for a wall - what can take one down? In Real life?

You'd have to drive a car through the wall, fire, or major earthquake for the wall to truly "fail" in a bad way.

Thankfully, lawyers and architects understand they need to design around dummies, resulting in construction code that builders follow to build structures capable to withstanding stresses well beyond what stresses the majority of buildings actually encounter in their lifetimes.

But code isn't the only way to build a strong home.

E.g. Go to an Pacific island and bamboo homes using no nails or screws have no issues withstanding heavy storms, yet wouldn't pass any USA building code inspection.

....

As for cutting or not, I'd recommended not cutting the stud. But if one does, how likely is the home going to collapse or encounter major failure - low.

Now low isn't zero, but hey, not my home.

....

Could one it better cutting thru?

Sure. Frame it all around - all 4 sides of the cutout - like a window and let that upper stud's downward force travel around the "frame" to the stud below and voila! (Yes, there's more to it, but the general idea.)

Are you sure your switch is for the lamp?

Are there other switches for the same lamp?

You are absolutely incorrect. I don't know the percentage but most of the weight and my guess is ar least 75%, is on the plate the back. In my renos I have installed about 10 of these and you bust your back getting it up and onto lip on the back plate and then one hand easily holds it while you thread the bolts down. BTW, I would go with the 2 x 8 across the back. Better safe.