If you half the insulation, it won't half the insulation rating, it will be more like 30%.

But thats if the door already has some nonzero insulation rating. In in-wall insulation just a 4mm gap is about 10% loss in insulation rating.

Uneven partial insulation will result in uneven heat transfer. Uneven zero insulation will make the rest of insulation basically pointless. If your window is open wide then it doesn't matter how good your wall insulation is. Diminishing returns vs exponential loss.

As far as the weight distribution, yes the weight needs to be evenly distributed. If not, then the door can shift in the rails and start binding. Worst case it gets stuck and something breaks.

I'm referring to modern domestic Airconditioners. I believe the early ones were very unsophisticated. Please correct me if I'm wrong. These days all domestic units dehumidify whether on heat or cool cycle (per the referenced article).

Lol, 90% of comments telling you no.. OP: “so the consensus is go for it!” You already made up your mind before posting. Good luck with your door hole 🤷‍♂️

Exterior walls are typically 24” OC.

You need to add a no other 2x4 to support the end against the wall. You can do this from the other side of the wall if possible. If not, make a 2x4 3”-4” longer than the opening. Put it under and first attach the existing floor from the top. Then put the subfloor back on top and screw it down.

Or every night after it runs

Give it a try on the wall first, you'll see what I mean. Good luck.

There's no way for wastewater from a dishwasher to go back into the supply pipes. It's just to prevent siphoning wastewater back into the dishwasher.

I didn’t know about this. Thanks!

It's got nothing to do with them being "modern"

This was literally their express purpose when they were invented; to keep moisture out of moisture sensitive machinery in factories. It was just a bonus that it also made things cooler.

One thing I see often with DIY'ers is not knowing that most stud finders need to be calibrated when placed on the surface you want to find framing. Press it against the wall, hold it still, push the button and when you here "beep" then you can move it across. Sometimes you need to calibrate it in a different spot as you can't calibrate it over a stud.

I was just teaching a guy this at work the other day, he was watching me install some cabinets in a classroom and was admiring my Franklin stud finder, saying how his doesn't work. I pulled out my cheap 20 dollar one, and showed him how they need to he calibrated. Most stud finders work fine if you aren't going over plaster, double drywall, or a similar situation.

You could also use toggles of the projector isn't overly heavy. Or toggle a finished board onto the ceiling, round over the edges and paint or stain, then attach projector to that. A few toggles spaced apart over the board should leave nothing to worry about.

Don’t fuck with the springs.

Original middle switch looks like it doesn't say "OFF" on it, so it's probably a three way switch.

When we put in a garden in our back yard, it was full of brick and mortar (an old pathway or patio that they broke up and buried)

It's your non-door! Do what you like.

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I'm an appliance technician and installer for the past 15 years. No idea how many dishwashers I've put in but it's.... a lot. I've NEVER done anything but high loop.

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Use Tung oil, it will also protect it.

Awesome I will be looking into them ! Thanks again for the help.

Ask them to install a new spring to compensate for the garage door's new weight. They'll have to bring a lever arm specifically for measuring the weight of the door, weigh it, and then make or order the spring. They aren't trying to screw you.

The springs on garage doors are supposed to be compensating 100% for the door weight. Additional door weight is only stressing the garage door opener and will cause it to fail much earlier than normal.

No transportation cost. I brought them back with me on the plane. They were very artistic and I've never seen any like them in USA.

>backing up into the dishwasher and then entering your clean water supply. This is water that you drink from

No. Nobody is drinking water from the dishwasher. It doesn't re-enter the water supply of your house.

Contaminated water could re-enter your dishwasher if it doesn't drain properly. The air gap does prevent this, but not for the reason you state.

I'd leave it alone. But if you want to change, I'd get a diamond cup grinder and grind away at the paint on the block edges. You might need to wash it with a muriatic acid to help with adhesion. Or maybe there might be a product to act as a primer to help with the bonding do a Google search.. Then I'd apply cement on the seems with a trowel. I'm just a gerry rigger but I think this should work fine. run it by a concreate pro. Probably paint it in a couple of days so it doesn't dry to fast.

I used these to hang both a projector and a projector screen from the ceiling drywall in an apartment back in college. They worked fine.