Yup, had to have an air gap on a Renton WA project last year.

There was not

Are you sure there isn’t a remote puck for the fan? That typically wires into the ceiling and then into the fan components.

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There’s two switches one to control the light the other the fan

The air gap advantage is that sewage can never get into your dishwasher. I've had sewage backups in an apartment, it spills over the sink sometimes.

If you do not have sewage backing up into your sink due to clogs from upstairs drains, then a high loop is all you need.

If you ever have sewage back up, then it's backed up into the dishwasher (highloop setup) and you will need to run a few sanitary cycles before cleaning dishes in it.

I hung a ladder on my garage ceiling by using a telescoping magnet on a stick. I was able to lock on to the drywall nails ,thus determining the studs.

Yup.

Magnet is your best friend

Glad I read this thread. I just rebuilt my garage doors bottom panel with a 2x6x14 pressure treated bottom, a 2x4 top and 2x4 verticals with wood panels. The panel weighs twice the original and the spring are just off of being able to hold the weight. I was thinking about ripping it apart and using lighter materials. Instead I will have the springs replaced. I'm sure theyre at least a 15 yrs old anyhow. In addition they're attached to a 2x6 nailed to a joist. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling seeing it.

Dishwashers don't get installed in cabinets, they get installed into 24" gaps between cabinets. Or in your case, a panel is installed to support the hanging end of the counter creating the same 24" cavity for the dishwasher.

How wide is your cavity? The correct answer, is to move that outside panel so that your dishwasher fits properly.

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I would sooner go through the walls then I would the door especially since the door opens and closes there’s a chance to wear down the hole with cable or cause internal issues to the cable and door.

Same with ours. Grease all over the cabinets despite a vent to the outside.

Spring upgrade or a bigger motor 🤷🏼‍♂️ imo that would be the perfect solution 😆

So question (homeowner, not a plumber) - I redid my counters and a new dishwasher, didn't put an air gap in - I routed the dishwasher drain to the disposal, and it loops way up behind the sink and then to the disposal entry. It's secured with zip ties, no issues for 17 years - so is that a "high loop"? (Well, only issue has been coffee grounds in the disposal getting flung up into the drain port and clogging it a bit, but I spoke to the Mrs. about that...)

Well, when the disposal side of your hose clogs, the air gap will be spilling into your cabinet instead of into your sink.

The spring breaks because it is cyclically loaded. Every cycle makes a small crack open a little bit more. The final straw that breaks it is going to be when it is wound the most - which is in the down position when the door is closed. So, a falling door is unlikely going to occur.

> I have ground down large bits to a triangular shape to get them to fit.

> if you were a real hack you could change the shank from round to triangular using a bench grinder

as have i, which is why i mentioned it lol. but we are hacks. in the truest sense of the word :)

WEAR SAFTY GLASSES!

Remove fender

WEAR SAFTY GLASSES!

Cut the bolt with dremel or oscillating tool. If you go the Oscillating tool route you are going to need a blade made for metal.

Either way it will take patience and time.

Perhaps it's a three pole switch.

Edited to add...and maybe previous owner effectively eliminated this switch from the system. Hence the light is on. OP need to find the other switch.

When we bought my current house, we had two major emergency fixes to make.

Reseat a toilet leaking around the flange and....

...put safety cables in the garage springs.

My dad said "do the toilet; it's going to take longer and the water damage is a bigger issue than springs that haven't broken yet and probably won't anytime soon."

He was right, reseating that toilet took forever and we ran out of time. We left the house via the garage door, and as it was coming down THWANGGGGG.

Motherfucking spring let go and danced all over the garage. Thank God we weren't inside. Replaced all the springs, added safety cables, and no problems in the 5 years since.

OP said he had to replace one sooner or later.

I think BOTH are wrong, actually!

The opener is not intended to "lift" the door's weight.

The door's weight is supposed to be counterbalanced by the spring. It needs to be, otherwise you're stressing the opener, and more problematic, it's excessive force to open manually, and may crash down hard when you try to close it manually.

So, it sounds like he needs a stronger spring, if the guy tried to tighten it but couldn't hit the target offset

To the top! This guy gets it.

Who said the airgap has to go on our counter? Mount it on a piece of plywood right under the counter, above the sink drain.