Lol no they aren't. It's a bike not a puppy. A few love taps on a stuck fastener isn't going to bend the frame or break a weld.

Also, a lot of people like to use the garage as additional space.
I do agree on the best way to improve the room is to insulate between the garage and the room, but that's a much bigger job.
I have my garage door insulated to also reduce heat gain in the summer. The door is South facing so heats up really badly in the summer. Some people just like the garage to be more usable space year round, so insulating the door may well be useful for lots of reasons.

you will probably get away with what you are doing. But don't make a habit of it. Sooner or later you would find the limits the structure can handle and ten it collapses.

I know guy who did just that. his house collapsed in on him.

Properly speaking, you should put a header and sill plate in.

All 3

this is more of a case of more info needed then something cut and dry.. the facts are, the best way to keep a room over a garage warmer is to add heat to the garage, which in alot of places , can only be done with electric heat, which is very costly, or by spray foaming or having blown in insulation installed in teh garage ceiling, The reason rooms over garages are cold is because the heat move downwards. So limiting the heat transfer that way, is FAR more cost effective then trying to keep the garage a few degrees warmer., which is all treating the door will do.

Plasticizer in concrete is like magic as the video shows. By the downvotes I've been getting, It's clear that there's a huge misconception that concrete should have so much water that it's liquid to do its job properly which is completely false. The more water, the weaker concrete becomes. It's harder to work when there's not a lot of water though which is why one should use plasticizer instead of adding more water.

Powder plasticizer is best because it has a much longer shelf life. liquid plasticizer has a very short shelf life. If one buys it from a big box store, one should check the expiration date because it won't work if it's much older than that expiration date. The liquid plasticizer at most big box stores is long ago expired.

I used to own a construction business and to keep cost down, I bought a concrete business and a drywall business. Actually made more money off those doing jobs for other companies than I did building houses but I'm an expert in everything concrete. Most companies would water down their mix and add too much aggregate and sand to save money. That's wrong and that's fraud. We did it correctly and would use plasticizer if doing jobs that required nice finish work such as counter tops or concrete walls that were to be the visible finished product. Lots of vibration is needed as well to eliminate voids.

Essentially it’s the same thing with new drywall and paint soaking in. Primer fills in the porous gaps better and it’s cheaper than paint. Otherwise you waste time and money having to paint upwards of 3 coats of paint and then it still be rough. A primer coat and a sand prevents that issue most of the time

I have ground down large bits to a triangular shape to get them to fit.

And a garage door opener is not expensive, why would it need to be warrantied?

Wheel off, fender out of the way, hammer+punch the upper bracket to twist it. Ezpz not expensive you're welcome

Drill it

There probably is. Most FROG (finished room over garage) are badly designed and built. They don't usually have very good insulation. Therefore, having better insulation and airtightness in the garage pays back.

You can get specific poly insulation for garage doors. It's cheap and light. Shop around for something designed for the job rather than a DIY bodge which it sounds like you have.

Might be worth noting that a fan with a down rod might involve a slightly different disassembly. I've installed several ceiling fans but I've never had high enough ceilings to have a down rod as part of the picture.

Not sure how you got that out of my post seeing as I said It shouldn't have any dry mix.

I’m a pretty good painter. Have painted the interior of three houses. Not too worried about that. Wood is 3/4 birch plywood, and really smooth, no knots or rough spots. Like I said my biggest concern is the issue I had first time around a few years ago with the grain raising up. Good advice from someone with experience. Thank you.

High loop is fine, though air gap is required by code in some places

Thx 🙏 u Karen

BIN shellac is alcohol based, requiring you to clean up with either denatured alcohol or 1:1 ratio of ammonia and water. It’s also rough to breathe without a charcoal grade filter mask. I would advise against that option if you’re concerned about smell and dry time of the alkyd top coat. Some alkyd hybrids perform great! The above commenter is offering a solid option just has some disclaimers with it.

If that stub is not load bearing cut it as for the edges there is bull nose edging I think it’s called it’s for the corners of drywall you can bend it and screw it in place I personally don’t think you need to worry about fire right there because sheet rock is fire retardant and I don’t see insulation.

Yeah but it wasn't the cost, he doesn't trust them to last as well as crimping them

10 year painter and 7 year paint store manager here, it really depends on a lot of factors but for a reliable straight forward system I would say depending on how rough the wood is you may want to use a high build primer like XIM UMA (black and yellow label) because it’s also great for hard to stick surfaces if that ends up being an issue for any number of reasons. But a simple option could be to just use Zinsser’s 123 or your local paint store equivalent. Sand after primer maybe 180 or 220 grit. Nothing crazy, then 2 coats of paint. Beyond that the professional outcome relies first heavily on good prep work followed by good technique in the finish coat application. Hope this info helps

I understand not using them professionally. It would get real expensive real fast.

there's no glass down there. Can't guess why you are doing that to hook up a solar panel. You are ruining a beautiful door, for what a friggin extension cord? Rain Water WILL get into the core of the door after you do that.

You electrician will happily put a NEMA 4 hook up outside the house for you to plug your solar into and even run a line from there to wherever you want.

My plumber buddy said the same as the guy above they work for a patch in a pinch but he would never use them for a job

I did use them for a repair since buying the crimp tool to fix that section wasn't worth it and have had no issues

unless your garage is heated, there is no need for insulation on the door at all.