Recent comments in /f/DIY

BdaBng t1_j6k7ju1 wrote

Is it a self priming pump? If not you might have to go through some sort of priming procedure. Although my guess is the pump isn’t, or at least wasn’t the issue.

I would think even with a vent clog you would get some pressure at first and then it would drop off. And different faucets having different pressure indicates to me it’s probably not the pump or vent.

I suspect the faucets inlets are clogged. To check the inlets of the faucet lines turn off water and remove the lines between the wall valve and where they connect to the faucet. There are usually screens that can clog up and kill the flow.

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dododoob t1_j6k7ay7 wrote

The only way for a heat pump to dehumidify is to run in cool mode. The dehumidify setting works by only running the compressor enough to keep the coils just below the dew point. Because the hot side is still outside, it will end up cooling the room down a bit. A standalone dehumidifier keeps its hot side in the room, so it doesn't have this problem.

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Kelsenellenelvial t1_j6k6wuf wrote

Increasing the temperature inside does help because it makes the inside surface of the window warmer too. We used to run a space heater in the living room to keep it warmer than the rest of the house and it did help a lot with condensation, at the cost of increased energy usage. The best solution is to replace the windows with a more energy efficient version, but that’s costly and not really an option if you don’t own the place.

For OP, window films is probably the most effective solution for the price. Part of the issue is older houses were so drafty that inside humidity wasn’t much different than outside. Then people start sealing things up to reduce energy costs, but that leads to cold spots that lead to condensation.

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[deleted] t1_j6k68pn wrote

Aircon involves building works which is why I suggested a free standing dehumidifier as the first (lowest cost) option. Most folks grossly underestimate the size needed though. If OP leaves a free standing dehumidifier running all day, she/he will come home to a dry apartment.

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Pleasant_Carpenter37 t1_j6k5qj9 wrote

They do trap air. You tape them to the frame, so there's an air layer between the window pane and the plastic.

It sounds like you're describing something that you'd stick directly to the glass. That's another option, but AFAIK it helps less than the air-trap type of plastic sheeting.

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Fleabagx35 t1_j6k5ia3 wrote

The purpose of an air gap is to prevent a clog in the drain of your dishwasher (at the food processor for example) backing up into the dishwasher and then entering your clean water supply. This is water that you drink from, etc. it does this by having a literal air gap in the drain.

A high loop is still very effective at this, but isn’t as full proof as an air gap. That being said, I still removed mine and replaced it with an RO drinking water faucet.

The reason some houses have them and others have a high loop comes down to where and when they were put in. Some places require it to be up to code, others don’t. My advice: it’s your house, OP. Put your high loop up nice and high and I doubt you’ll ever have an issue.

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