I bet ventilating briefly with an open window is going to be cheaper than running a dehumidifier unless the heat is insanely expensive (baseboard electric at a high electric rate or something).

The Germans are super into this.

> "The correct way to ventilate a home is to employ the Stoßlüften, or shock ventilation method. You open your windows completely for three minutes if it's windy, five to 10 minutes if it's not," said Raymond Galvin, a researcher at the University of Aachen and Cambridge, who has written extensively about energy efficiency in Germany.

https://www.politico.eu/article/germanys-energy-efficiency-open-windows-ventilation/

In my experience, if you open a window in cold weather you can watch a hygrometer tick down very quickly in real time. Once the humidity is down, you're home free unless you create more without using an exhaust fan (bath or kitchen, for example) or the weather warms up with accompanying high humidity again. Then it's time for another quick shock.

It sounds like there is something crosswired.

It also sounds like someone set the switches up to all have power coming into them but then to only switch one leg. Cars do switches like this, where an entire circuit is powered and the switch only changes one connection.

Either way, sounds wrong and dangerous for house wiring. Call an electrician. Could be someone did some goofy wiring and spliced a hot to neutral in the ceiling.

Next year (or maybe now; you have a lot of winter left), glaze your windows. They sell the film at Lowes and you can get crystal or frosted.

And get a dehumidifier.

In lieu of a angle grinder a simple metal hack saw blade would do the trick and be safer, if you can't get the bolt to turn

If it's 14\3 or 12\3 wire it'll have one black (hot), one red (hot), one white (neutral), and a bare ground. Literally just cap one of the hots and don't use it. Cap both ends (switch and fixture). I'm doing the reverse soon and adding a two switches with wire and a fan box. Currently I have a single switch going to an outlet.

Bingo chicken dinner

And TIL that you can adjust a garage door spring with just two cheap rods.

When we had the insulation/tension thing done, the guy had a huge (like size of his arm) wrench-looking specialized tool to adjust the springs. Maybe he had the limited-edition Porsche and not the used Hyundai.

Thanks for replying. No need to take it to personal. Thanks for striking up the further conversation and once again reminding most laymen that they're are technically other things to consider beyond voltage

Lol reddit hates your cautious attitude but you're 100% right

Cool. Thank you for clarifying. I always thought they were level

I own a plumbing company. We've never put in an air gap and always just do a high loop. We've never had a complaint or issue that I'm aware of.

All roofs are large by surface area and to make draining quicker and efficient they are usually sloped right to left. I think it's 1 inch drop for every ten feet. Also, houses are never level, there is always settling. Imaging pouring a pitcher of water on a flat table from the middle, it will eventually either drain off the edges or dry, but not quickly or efficiently. If the table is sloped it drains off quickly

Would do 3 sides

TIL what an air gap is.

Are you measuring voltage?

When the switch is off, the 2 points will have a voltage difference of 120v. When the switch is on, the 2 points are physically connected, the voltage difference between them is 0.

Look up how to use a multi meter.

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Sounds like the neutral wire is switched? Instead of the hot wire? Hard to tell based off the picture.

You can be scratching your head for weeks on this and potentially make things worse. Best bet is to get it all checked out by a certified electrician. If it's original wiring personally I'd get it all updated.

Expensive? They are just a pair of rods.

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If it’s all on one switch it should only have one set of wires.

Move the dishwasher a bit

If they are level and there's a hole (drain) in one side.... Would it not drain? If it's sloped you would require more drains. As an example, if the corner that op is expressing concern about is sloped where that corner being the highest point, you would need a drain somewhere on the opposite side of that slope. If it's all level then water would drain in just one drain eliminating the need to drain more things away from the house. The only problem with this is if you have a very large roof and everything is coming out that one drain it could overflow. Still at that point everything should be level without slopes with additional drains.

Well every comment here is close. I currently fix and install garage doors and openers.

If it's Styrofoam insulation then you are probably fine but if it's actual wall insulation then it's probably going to be an issue. Every bit of weight counts but it's ok to add extra tension to springs if a bit of extra weight is added. If you remove weight then they have to come back and remove the extra tension anyway.

If you can manually lift the door without much struggle then it will probably take 5-10 years before the opener breaks it's sprocket or grind the gears away. If the opener is 15 years or older then just leave it since that's when they start having issues anyway. Good springs last 6-8 years.

Thank you for the detail. These are little hex screws or whatever, not the long gutter nails, fortunately.