except that you can shock yourself on a turned off fixture since it's always hot.

Look to see if your furnace has a humidity control. Sometimes these are on the side of the furnace, sometimes they are controlled by a digital thermostat. Humidity in winter is a wonderful thing, but sometimes it can be set too high, and the moist air will condense onto cold glass. Not only does this potentially damage windows, but can lead to a situation where the humidifier is calling for more humidity but the level isn’t reached because moisture is being pulled out of the air by the windows. For this reason humidity in winter should be around 25%.

Others have said you can dehumidify a room, but this is rarely a problem in chicago in the winter, especially with double lanes glass, which is what you have. I’m nearly certain you have a built in humidifier on your HVAC and it hasn’t been set for a lower winter level.

Dehumidifier or the shrink wrap plastic window coverings. On the latter, you put the plastic up and hit it with a hair dryer. It will create an insulated air barrier like a dual pane window, but optically it not as clear.

A dehumidifier will produce a little bit of heat and noise.

You are probably fine with 2, but I would go for 3

It won't help. The temperature outside (thus the glazing) will remain below condensation.

Tu tu turn up da heat

Or bleach. Straight bleach kills and prevents new growth. Toxic mould is a thing. If you don't or can't keep on top of it.

Is there more than one switch on the wall? Common practice is to pull a 14/3 wire up to a ceiling fan in case the motor and light need to be switched separately. However a lot of new ceiling fans with remotes only need one switch. It's possible yours was wired with that in mind and the red wire is only capped behind the switch, so it won't do anything at the fan

Hire an electrician

If it's a matter of stripping the good insulation, probably getting a dumpster for it, and rebuying and installing LESS effective insulation- or, alternately just replace the opener... well then just replace the opener and enjoy the good insulation

Thanks for the advice! Should I run the cleats on 3 sides or just 2 sides of the shelf?

Thanks for the advice! Should I run the cleats on 3 sides or just 2 sides of the shelf?

What? No. The missing piece should be one section.

I'm saying screw through the far joist into a horizontal block perpendicular to and aligned to the top of the far joist in the small bay against the wall. Make that block longer than the width of the hole so you can also screw down through the subfloor into the block at the ends. That will be enough to support the subfloor in the narrow bay against the wall if someone steps there for some unlikely reason.

Then you should also block along the seems in the center bay so the missing piece of plywood has support under the break. Just regular vertical blocks. It's called "boxing out."

You would do the same for like an attic access hatch, so there is support along every seem. You don't need to bother with the one inch gap between the double joist and the next one, that's too small a space to deform even if someone leaned on the exact spot with a cane or something.

I used tape and plastic on a window like this, solved the issue.

I have air gaps. My neighbor has the same model of house with the same model dishwasher, and has the loop. Not sure why they were built differently but works the same.

1. Dehumidifier 2. Raise Temperature of Room 3. Seal the drafts around the window

I don't imagine anyone is getting any warranty work done by garage door opener companies.

> Whatever you do you will have to readjust your spring tension which should be checked yearly or so anyway

WARNING: These springs can and will cause serious injury. While it's possible to DIY this, these springs have enough force to lift a heavy steel garage door. Be very careful to learn what to do, and not do if you're going to work on this.

>Get a better garage door opener

Why? The one she has is working.

They have to be sloped or the water won't drain properly. Standing water is bad

I would slide the door over 3.5” and patch drywall. It is likley just a flimsy partition wall ment to maximize the space in the room. If that is the case it would be non structural, can’t say for certain without seeing more though.

A bowl of kitty litter?

Good ideas, thanks!

The spring on a modern garage door won't go flying when it breaks, but the door falling is still dangerous

>am looking for the cheapest method

Removing the installation may seem cheap up front but it will not be in the long run. Your energy use will go up, it's just a matter of how much.