You will be fine with a high loop.

And if it was painted before the 70s, very likely there’s lead in the paint, which will now be scattered into the ground around your house, and into your lungs if you’re not masked.

You say take the humidity out of the room. My whole house has a humidifier connected to it that I turn on in the winter. I know the air in winter is much drier and the reason for this is to help with dry air and shrinking. When I add humidity to the air and get these cold snaps, the same thing happens.

So you mean to cot the overhanging section off so that I’m putting the missing piece of floor back in 2 sections?

No matter what if water is pooling then it's a low point. Remembers that it needs to slope downward on two planes; from back to front and from right to left (towards whichever side the gutter is on). Other people in the thread were correct about the corner joints leaking. I would seal those up again to be sure. To change the slope you should be able to unscrew it from the fascia and screw it back in. If it uses long aluminum nails then you'll have to reposition those.

Also, you should block between the joists in the center bay so the cut breaks over the block to avoid the small cutout section bowing differently when someone steps on it. 2x4 should be fine, but 2x6 would fit and be better.

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No one is going to be walking over there. Just grab a 2x6, cut it longer than the hole, put it in horizontally and screw through the joist then use deck screws through the subfloor on either end. Should be plenty strong enough and easy to remove if you need to access what look like pipes in there.

Maybe just do exploration hold 1” apart in a line. Small enough to be easy to patch. An awl is perfect for this.

Your overthinking this way too much, cut a 2x6 and put it under the floor bellow the trim, use 3.5 inch wood screws and go into the baseboard till you get into the 2x6.

Cap off your floor, screw it back in and fill the holes in the baseboard.

Thanks for the input!

If it’s styrofoam we are talking a couple pounds. If that’s going to stress the door and opener then they are garbage. There is a process to insulate non insulated doors, granted it’s no where near as good as a real insulated door, there are kits and it’s a thing.

If the company though holding the warranty hostage over it then reality didn’t really matter but what the service provider wants. I assume they want to sell you something.

Garage door springs have to be re-adjusted when insulation is added. The weight of the door changes too much.

The only way to adjust that tension is with a special (expensive) tool. Sounds like they did the DIY part but didn't hire the tech to tweak the spring.

> might only be serving to hold drywall,

That's exactly what it is. A drywall backer. Framers often need to add these in inside corners where one piece of drywall would lack support.

just drill the bolt out

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An angle grinder with a masonry grinding disc will do what you're looking for. Wear a P100 breathing apparatus and glasses. Silicosis from breathing in the dust will have you die drowning in your lungs own fluid.

Stud on one side and an anchors on the other is quite common, and safe. At least half of the weight is held by the cabinets above, and then at least half of the remainder is carried by the one stud.

As for tiling under and behind.... yes it would probably work, but you'll need to learn about waterproofing under and behind the tile. Tile and grout are not waterproof (surprise!)

Look into a product called Kerdi from a company called Schluter. It's made for custom tile installations and shower pans. Can be done to fit any size or shape of area. Note that the floor drain you use must be their design also -- it gets water from under the tile as well as over, into the plumbing drain.

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100 percent. I used to work for a garage door company, and on occasion we had to replace springs that break

(NOTE: a modern garage door spring breaking is NOT DANGEROUS, it wont randomly fly off and break anything. Look above your garage door, there should be a rod with a spring or multiple springs wrapped around it. If you still have an old style which are fairly rare now, then the springs will stretch freely and are dangerous: you should get an upgrade).

Anyway, we were able to disengage the springs, use a scale to weigh the combined total of door sections, and use balance tables to find the correct size spring or springs, and number of rotations. Any decent company should be able to do that and get you new springs. I would recommend that instead of removing insulation (because a non insulated panel keeps out little more cold than the wind) but also because if that door was improperly balanced the whole time, you could be looking at strain on the opener or other parts of the door hardware.

I had the oval ring on mine (1917 house, owned from '81 to '03). It used three anchor points to walls (tub sat in a corner). I was concerned that the fourth corner would sag, so I added a hanging post from the ceiling. All of these fittings were available by ordering together with the ring.

We then used (I think) 4 vinyl curtains, one of which closes across the front, the others were more or less stationary for the other three sides.

Marketing mostly

Short answer: Durability

Long answer: Look VERY carefully at those listings! And maybe post what you're seeing here? AC drives have a direct mathematical conversion. DC units can only be "approximated" or identified as a "horsepower equivalent" - with different manufacturers handling their own ratings differently...

That's cuz most of them are built like shit