So don't add water to concrete mix for max strength... Gotcha

I was thinking decorative carpet and I don't know how many people do this but carpet has the ability to absorb some of the sound. And a decorative carpet may look fine. Remember some folks hang carpets on the wall.

Weird you were down voted.... go figure.

Thanks!

Drieing can create matting in certain washing/drying machines. It's best to spread them out and let it dry by air. The high washing temperatures removes their natural grease-layer which makes them more matting/tangled/felty when tossed about after. Be sure to when still wet comb then in the shape you need before letting them be air-dryed.

Technically just high temp washing is enough health-wise. Animal hairs are low on the scale of spreading deceases etc. in itself. It is mainly for parasites/fungi that might live in it and can be spreadable to humans. And skinflakes that can trigger allergies in people.

Never drill holes into a door. What a huge security risk.

When I lived in NZ I had this problem also. Two options :

1. Buy a dehumidifier of a size to match the room(s). You will need to empty the accumulated water from it daily at least.

2. Install a heat pump (reverse cycle air conditioner).

there is a machine u can rent that people prep epoxy garage floors with that shoots metal bb's at the concrete and vacuums up the dust. and I've personally just used an angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel for small jobs.

This happened at an apartment I was in. It ends up that water was making its way behind the panels and eventually rotted away the drywall and wood framing. It took the maintenance crew 3 days to repair it all because there was nothing behind the panels.

I was told they had to do a similar repair to the bottom 2 units as water had made its way down the walls.

Be careful of varnished doors though when pulling from donated stock like that, as older door varnish contains lead. (We found this out when we looked into refinishing all the old wood doors in our 1920s house. Turns out it is not something to attempt without really good dust control, even outside.)

R4 insulation is 1/4W per m^2 per deg C of temp difference. Adding a second layer makes it R8, 1/8W per m^2 per deg C of temp difference.

OK so say you have two sq m, one is R4 the other is double-thick R8. The total leakage is 1/4+1/8 =0.375W per deg.

Let's say that instead we split the second 1 sq m sheet from the thick half into two equal pieces and distribute them to make two R6 panels, the total leakage is 1/6+1/6=0.333W

The problem is the metal alone: Low carbon steel has a thermal conductivity of 54 (W/m K). 24ga (thick high quality door) is 5.695mm=0.005695m for an R-value of 1.0546296296296296296296296296296e-4. (I THINK I have this right).

So bare steel being an R-value of "close to zero" is worse than it sounds. Heat transfer is reciprocal, so 0 would mean "infinite". In reality the steel surface does get hot but heat transfer into the room is limited to just radiation and conduction into adjacent air (air at the door surface will get very hot, but it doesn't circulate rapidly).

So, two R4 panels on top of 24ga steel is 0.5W per deg C.

Heat transfer through 1 panel of steel beside one panel of R8:

1/1.054e-4 + 1/8 = 9482 + 0.125 = 9482.125

Like I say, in reality the leakage of heat through steel has other limits, but the basic math direction is that an unprotected sq meter is so high compared to simple R4 that only that one unprotected sq meter will matter.

The leakage through the insulated half is already almost nothing, relatively speaking, compared to the exposed panel... or many of them. So doubling the insulation value to halve the leakage across the insulated only halves the leakage on the part that was too low to matter to begin with, and there's tons of heat flowing across the uninsulated portion.

Get a better garage door opener. Insulation is expensive and keeping your garage at the right temp is of great value. You want that insulation.

>You can go nuts with fiberglass and house wrap, but one little crack letting cold air in will chill a room out very quickly.

Or, conversely, why throwing down a simple draft blocker or tacking up a single piece of rigid insulation in the right spot, or even just putting plastic film over a key window, can make a huge difference in a room.

That’s interesting, makes a lot of sense, thanks for the info.

Good old cheapest method

Meh, if it were me, I'd just leave it as is then and when that opener eventually fails, just replace it with a 1 hp one. Openers are cheap and very easy to replace (if you stick with the same make and drive assembly that is.. (ie: chain vs. belt)).

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Also, if you can lift the door with one hand, but when you release it it wants to fall to the ground, the door weight and spring tension is not balanced and you'll need to get the spring replaced with something more adequate for the weight of the door.

Also curious why you had a garage door company out there in the first place. What prompted that? That's not a normal thing for a home inspection. Who called them and why?

First, what causes it? Simple physics. Humid air in contact with a cold surface = liquid water.

You need to attack it from both sides: First, take humidity out of the air. Dehumidifiers are an easy solution. Second, make the window glass less cold. That means better insulated windows, which you probably can't do in a rental.

In any case, the mold isn't gonna hurt you. The whole "EHRMEGERD TOXIC MOLD!" is nonsense. Spray the sill with some mildew cleaner that you use in your shower every week and you won't see any mold on your sill.

You can ventilate the room, which is kind of hard in the winter, and expensive.

You can dehumidify the room.

You can circulate the air in the room better, this may or may not solve the problem but its worth a try.

Or, you can buy those plastic window covers that stick to the frame with double sided tape. Its clear plastic film you hit with a hair dryer afterward. It shrinks the film and makes it nice and tight so you can still see out the windows no problem. Frostking is the brand I usually see in the stores.

I used this (it had plenty of trim included to cover a not perfect cut. My obese cat manages to get through even though it was to just let the thin one through). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QPL57P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

You want to grind on your 60 year old foundation for aesthetic reasons?

Bro, go remodel the bathroom. Or the bedroom. Or finish the attic.

> most importantly, this is why all of us everywhere only need to buy ONE particular garage door opener to handle ANY wood or fiberglass or steel or composite garage door of any width or thickness!

Then why do openers range from 1/2hp up to over 5hp?

It only needs to be distributed evenly if you don't want your door to bounce around. You will need to have the garage door company come back and re-adjust the springs again after removing the insulation. If you remove the insulation and don't pay for a company to readjust your door will be "hot" and shoot up whole being hard to close.

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Another Great solution, thank you for this.

Get that statement from the service company in writing! Then, go back to the original homeowner with the agreement that you have and make a formal demand. BUT KEEP READING!

For an overhead door, the spring setup counterbalances the weight of the unit. Spring sets are color-coded based upon the loads that they can handle. AND most importantly, this is why all of us everywhere only need to buy ONE particular garage door opener to handle ANY wood or fiberglass or steel or composite garage door of any width or thickness!

THEREFORE, don't remove ANY insulation until formal action is corroborated! The CORRECT fix should "simply" be a spring adjustment or upgrade! If you take it upon yourself to do anything else, ESPECIALLY before asserting a formal demand, then all remedies and expenses could now be yours alone to bear!

[EDIT] Just read through some of the other comments and your notes, here, especially on the insulation type, which is NOT going to be out of line for an overhead door! To doublecheck the "balance" for yourself:

That opener should have a pull-cord disconnect near the door attachment when everything is closed. Disengage it and then try to lift the door for yourself. If it feels like the effort is going to require more than ten pounds of heft; or, if the door travels poorly or binds up within it's tracks, then you'll know for certain that it's a spring or service issue and NOT an insulation issue...

Lol, why not.

I'm not sure why you would want to when you can move your hole over to where there aren't any studs and patch what you cut out in front of the stud.