I'll add that it will be easier and simpler just to re-attach the gutters with proper slope (if that's the issue) than to install a new downspout.

Damnnn you’re a pro! Come fix my fans next time! Lol! That’s awesome tho. Houses are so much work. Always weird random crap haha. I hope at least that comment is helpful for someone else who doesnt know LOL. Good luck with the shower surround, hope it sorts out!

Damnnn you’re a pro! Come fix my fans next time! Lol! That’s awesome tho. Houses are so much work. Always weird random crap haha. I hope at least that comment is helpful for someone else who doesnt know LOL

It's possible that's what caused it initially, to be honest. Between 2021-2022, I was dealing with some pink mold on the bathroom ceiling due to condensation. I ended up replacing the exhaust fan hose, upgrading from a 50cfm motor to a 70cfm one, piling many layers of insulation in the attic above the bathroom and around the fan housing and repainting the ceiling with semi-gloss mold-killing/mold-resistant paint.

Needless to say, all of that helped the previous issue, haha. On a freezing cold day, I can feel a slight temperature change if my hand is literally right on the fan vent, but again, it's not what I'd classify as a draft.

Personally I think sharkbites are terrible, but technically it's doable.

If you are going to remove 1/2 the insulation, you might as well remove it all. With 1/2 the door unprotected, insulating the other 1/2 is pointless. The only way that would make any sense is to remove half the thickness from every panel, and leave none uncovered. I find it very difficult to believe that the extra weight added by the styrofoam is enough to make any difference to the garage door opener. When the door springs are properly adjusted to the door WITHOUT any styrofoam insulation, you should be able to disconnect it from the mechanical opener, and open and close the door with one hand. After that the garage door opener should be able to open and close it without even straining. And adding styrofoam after that won't add enough weight to upset that equation. Just trying to upgrade to a bigger motor is just asking for unnecessary problems, IMHO.

Would you recommend a d oval shape ring or the circle ring ? I was planning on the the oval ring . The specs on my tub are 53 x 28. Also I plan on tiling the wall behind and floor surrounding the tub with a drain underneath the tub (separate from the in tub drain ) for easy cleaning. Would that take away from potential water damage ?

Easy mode fix for you if it is pooling in that corner.

You can buy a "gutter spigot" (that only works on flat bottomed gutter, like your ogee or square styles.) - Or that's what i've always called them, You simply hole saw a 54mm hole in the flat of your gutter, pop the thing through, screw it down and attach a down pipe.

Link to english site selling this. - https://www.trulypvc.com/roofing/rainwater/unions-outlets/hunter-uni-fit-r400-gutter-outlet

I'm sure you can get them in every country. not sure if it will be called the same thing.

As someone else said, clean out the gutters and reseal the joins first and foremost, but this won't solve the pooling issue.

PEX isn't rigid enough for the sharkbite to hold securely.

You can mess with the PEX if you want but the easiest way is just to buy a threaded brass T for the hot side and close/cap the appropriate valve on the cold side. Unless the valves are trash you don't even need to turn the main off.

That is a great idea!

Door salesman here. If that is a wooden door, I would highly suggest not doing that. You severely compromise the integrity of the door drilling a hole in it outside of the lock lock area.

Steel or fiberglass door is not a problem. Make sure there is a sleeve to protect the wire from rubbing on the skin of the door causing a short. Especially if it is steel.

All that being said, I still wouldn’t do it. Replacing that door will cost thousands. Fixing it would be a lot of paint and Bondo.

So....a wall?

-Mitch Hedberg, probably

>"You have to do this quickly with no time to waste once caulk is applied, or it will be a disaster." I feel should have been in big, capital, red letters... lol
>
>You are absolutely correct. Use tape, and quickly remove excess with a soapy wet finger. keep paper towels close by to wipe your fingers on.You can't let the silicone skin-up, maybe 5 minutes, before you remove the excess. These can be very hard learned, and sometimes re-learned lessons. Another tip with silicone, if it's cold, pre-warm your tubes in warm water for 15 minutes.

styrofoam is already insanely light. It's the lightest possible insulation there is for a garage door. It sounds like your springs are incorrect size range for the weight of the garage door, and springs can't be overtightened, they need to be replaced with a proper spring. Do you own a bathroom scale? Disconnect your garage door opener and set the scale under the door and see how much weight is on the door, it should be 8-10 lbs.

Alright so what’s the best way to brace? I’ve got a pocket screw jig kit, should I just slap a 2by up against the underside and put pocket screws into the stringers?

We have French doors where we don't utilize one half. We replaced that side with a solid door and installed a dog door within that door. So when we move we can reinstall the set if someone else doesn't want a dog door. Worked out well so far.

Seems to be what's likely to happen.

I can open with 1 hand so I think it's the opener just not very strong.

Could OP just install a cat flap and run the temporary cords through that as needed?

son of a….. 🤬🤬🤬

Might I ask why you say no to sharkbite fittings?

Great I hadn't though of just snipping the lines and added a straight coupling.

Thanks for the advice !

Roger, thanks.

You have PEX coming out of the wall so you're not putting sharkbites on that. You either have to buy, rent or borrow the PEX tools necessary to do this. If you think you'll do more of your own plumbing then buying is a good option. PEX is very easy to do as long as you remember to check every crimp with the provided tester.

If you DIY then all you have to do here is snip the lines coming out of the wall about halfway between the wall and the first fitting, them swap the two assemblies (hot to cold and vice versa), then use a PEX straight coupling to reattach. It's literally a 4 crimp, 5 minute operation.

Note that you must turn off the water main to do this.

Edit: ok you could use sharkbites but please don't. They're terrible IMO.