I am surprised this hasn't been said yet, but you need to stabilize and secure your cabinets first. Do it however you like, screws, nails, construction adhesive, whatever, but that has to be secure before anything else. you should be able to stand on it without it moving at all! And the tops of the cabinets must all be absolutely level in both directions on the horizontal. Use shims to solidify the base anywhere that there is a mismatch with the floor. If you use adhesive to secure it to the wall, give it a few days to set properly before moving forward. Once you have a solid base, getting the top to stay in place should be a piece of cake. 100% silicone on top the cabinets, wherever you can, stick it down and leave it alone for 24 hours.

to do it right means replacing the carpet on the stairs. so either do it right or mend it till you are ready to replace the carpet.

Looks like Styrofoam

Just moved in last couple weeks so unknown. Given the 1.5 inch insulation panels maybe not?

This is a good and inexpensive option.

If you haven't thought about this yet...

You'll need a ring shower curtain to keep the shower water inside the tub. Without this, serious damage can be caused by oversprayed or splashed water.

Okay I gotchaaa.

So from what I learned (the hard way) is there should not be a draft from there, like ever! Lol

You can look up backdrafting effects and walls cracking from cold air meeting hot air is definitely one of the issues people get!

I’d take a peek at that exhaust! I bet it’s that, I highly doubt it has anything to do with the install because that’s something that’s not rocket science hahah

1st- you can take the plastic cover off and check for gaps around the fans metal housing. Any spots that would let hot air into the attic are no good. Happens commonly when a smaller fan is put in where a larger fan was and not sealed properly.

You’d wanna seal any open space around there with caulk or a can of window/door gap foam from the store is what I did

2nd- check the attic for signs of indoor air infiltration. Look for condensation, frost or a smell of moisture. Seal any gaps around the attic entry so it closes tight.

I learned that the attic should be pressure sealed from the house and you don’t want warm air up there at all. I watched lots of YouTube videos too about pressure in houses. It makes alot of sense now

3rd- prob MOST IMPORTANT, find the bathroom vent pipe in the attic, and make sure it’s not exhausting into the attic! If it is, redirect that outside, stat!

If it’s directed outside, follow that pipe to the outside now, and check if you have a little flapper damper. It could be partially broken or stuck, only letting in a draft on some windy days. Don’t want animals in there either building homes.

Dampers are cheap like $10-15 and suuper easy to put on. I did it myself no problem.

Saved lots of money on hydro after that lol! and no walls pulling back and forth from the temp difference . Let me know what you find if you can! I’m curious!

Appreciate it - yes our bathroom is extremely tiny so we are using a clawfoot tub to make it appear more open instead of a built in tub that takes up half of the bathroom. A lot of moving parts but excited to get it completed.

Just replace the opener when it breaks and get a more powerful one?

If you release the opener latch, is the door heavy? You should be able to open with one arm without the opener attached.

No, unless there's a few hundred dollars worth of safety stuff that's being added since the last nest I did 10 years ago.

So you can test both motor and light before spending time on the blades. Just remember to switch the breaker off when you do the blades -- safely is important.

There are so many better places to put a hole for access to something like this - do you have a layout or photo's of where you want the equipment to be?

It's easier to repair a hole in brick or stucco than in a door.

And if possible add another valve If you think it needs it. So repairs are easy if it happens again.

Just buy or rent another drill with a 12mm chuck. And while you are at it, get a proper hammer drill with sds socket.

One primer coat lightly sanded then one finish coat.. I use just flat latex ceiling white and use Sherwin Williams Pro Classic have done lots and never had any problems.Primer is just a extra cost and overrated sometimes I think. Another coat of finish would be nice and it really doesn’t take that long it just seems like it.

Do the fan blades need to be on for the motor to power?

I learned the hard way that one pedal is always threaded left handed. sigh.

From the ceiling, red and black are separate power (hot) wires. One for the light (blue) and one for the fan (black)

So red to blue, and black to black.

The exhaust isn't directly above the shower, it's more in the center of the bathroom. That said, there isn't really a draft coming from it. If you stick your hand right over it, you can sometimes feel cooler air from the attic above, but not a draft.

I'm as sure as I can be without ripping it all down, haha. It's sealed up tight and I check often to ensure the silicone hasn't cracked. There are no odors or soft spots that would lead me to believe there's water/mildew/mold, and it's been like this for a few years so I have to imagine it's dry back there -- at least until something happens that suggests it's not.

Or attach lathe to it

It's attached well in many places, including at the top by the drywall. It's a few spots in the middle that are pulling away. I wouldn't necessarily call it "falling forward" -- it's more like there are some air bubbles in the middle.

Cut the horizontal pipe and use a fernco coupler to connect it back together when you're done.

Get all that silt out of the pit while you're at it, that's most likely to kill your pump.
I agree that if your pump is still working there's no need to replace it right now.

Yeah I was contemplating this route. Wanted to try and “do it right” by replacing broken piece though… hmmmm

You can cut plastic pipe just with a sturdy piece of string.

https://youtu.be/MC3S7OhfSk8