Water-based or shellac? I have experience with BIN shellac in a bathroom that needed lots of drywall refinishing after I removed some old beadboard.

No. Buy a new solid core door slab from 84 lumber. Give them the exact measurements for where the door knob and the hinges are. They can order it to the exact size. Add a door sweep for extra buffering.

Sound proofing = dense mass materials and sealed gaps and edges. Sound treatment = soft materials applied to the surface. Foam acoustic treatment is not soundproofing.

Go and buy.a fire door and draft proofing strip.

Do you have a draft coming from your exhaust above?

I mean, if you could somehow take off one face of the door and spray every little pocket, then reglue the face of the door back on, lol. But that's ridiculous. I don't think you are going to achieve what you want.

I like the flexibility of having multiple TVs, but yeah, it does certainly feel excessive.

https://youtu.be/yIeqW7CYKdQ

Since you have living space above the garage, I would strongly suggest you keep the insulation installed. There is a reason the previous own installed it, and that is most likely inadequate insulation between the garage and living space. You will have increased comfort and reduced energy bills by keeping the insulation.

The actual question you need answered is whether the spring is designed to work with that door. Garage doors are engineered systems that carefully balance the spring force to equalize the door weight as it is lowered. A well designed system does not need a powerful opener. If the last owner replaced those panels, it is not balanced and needs to be corrected.

Tightening the spring is a stop-gap measure, which hopefully they explained to you. It will help the motor work when the door is mostly lowered, but it will in turn cause too much return force when it is raised. There is no balance. You can install a more powerful motor to try to brute force it, but even that will get more wear and tear than it should, leading to more noise and reduced service life.

Furthermore, motors are cheap. It makes zero sense to replace panels at around ~$200 each, when you can replace the motor for less than a single panel. Not only that, you're paying more to downgrade your garage. It's .. not sensical. I don't know what set you on that path, but you really should reconsider.

What you need to do is find a legit garage company that will come out to spec and replace the spring with the correct gauge and number of turns. If, when properly balanced, you still need a bit more oomph on the opener, that's trivial to do. That can be a DIY job because changing that isn't dangerous. Changing the spring should be done by a pro, though, and if they're out there anyway, they should give you a good deal on swapping the motor.

You have not been advised well. That may be due to their incompetence, or your misunderstanding, but consider finding another garage door service.

they are wrong on a few points. Do not cover or block your source of make up air unless you are positive you know what you're doing.

You have no idea what make up air in a utility room is for.

If your kitchen exhaust fan is running and your atmospheric vented appliance is also running, it can absolutely suck the CO exhaust right into the house. People have died from this - that's why on new builds, it's required by code to have a flue damper sensor so they know if the exhaust is being pulled into the home. OP may not have this. 99% of furnaces do not have the capability to detect CO or O2 levels.

looks like someone patched that at some point because of the mesh under the texture, and that stud is on the flat. I dont know why it's there maybe it was used for backing. Could of been supporting a drywall patch and they used a scrap 2x4

Turn the lights off and hold a flashlight against the ceiling. Shine the light along the ceiling and you will be able to see the subtle texture changes. This should enable you to see the joints between the sheets of drywall, which should correspond with some kind of framing.

If you use a full acrylic foundation plaster with a binder, you would not have to strip the paint

what does the current insulation look like? foam board? styrofoam?

good luck!! bathrooms can be horrible but they're so rewarding when finished

Note... Depending on the type of well/pump, you may have to prime it after making the repair.

Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water 'before' you make the repair.

Thank you for the step-by-step breakdown. I have gone up and routinely clean the gutters. I can confirm that each gutter seems to slope properly, but the area near the corner from both sides still pools.

Sounds like its not entirely necessary for a downspout to be there in the corner, but I do need to check for leaks.

1/4-20 toggles and it's done you would have to hang from it to pull it down.

Counterweights do not work on garage doors. They don't 'weigh' anything when rolled up because they're horizontal.

The whole point of springs is that they vary the return force in proportion to how far the door is lowered. They are engineered balanced systems.

Happy to help!

THANK YOU! Now that you mention it, the amazon link I posted shows it with the felt on top in the pic as well lol. I thought it was supposed to be at the bottom due to how the original filter was in it originally.

Is the kick stand rusting or just the bolt? Kick stands are usually an aluminum alloy and don't rust. Anyway, it might be easier to just clean up the rust or paint it in place.

I'm not experienced with these showers, just sharing my personal experience. One of the showers in my house had this problem, and the HOA said it was common in our complex because the builder didn't correctly attach the panels to the wall. They didn't use enough adhesive and didn't brace them as the adhesive was drying. So ~5-10 years after they were built, many started doing exactly what yours is doing. The HOA said they would keep pulling away more and more, and could possibly completely fall off. If this is indeed the problem, it's not a hard fix. Get the right adhesive, apply plenty to the panels, and brace them with 2x4s at several points. Let it dry for at least as long as the adhesive recommends, and you should be good.

It's like the opposite of a campfire I think?

Or really, just stack it all up in a neat pile near the door. That's how insulation works right ?

If your cabinet is secure and the top is what is moving some when cleaning I would suggest using silicone under the countertop ontop of the cabinet. There are generally corner braces on the cabinet where you can put the silicone thick enough and then let it dry well. After that you can caulk the joint with whatever caulk you like for the look. This is the method I used as a plumber installing bathroom cabinets with non wood tops. Good luck