Professional door repair guy here

No.

Just drill the hole in the doors trim, usually they will leave 3/4 of an inch extra space between the door frame casing and your houses framing, perfect for the cord you need to run

Well, if the whole roof is off, I can see that. But along both lengths, you can see both differences in the fascia and shingles that you can see, which is why it appears to slope.

If it doesn't slope, OP, you can just remove and redo it.

The felt strip is meant to go on the top, it's to distribute the water evenly across the panel. You installed the panel upside-down.

https://www.diypartsusa.com/product/318518-761-bryant-carrier-humidifier-water-panel/
>The 318518-761 humidifier water panel includes an integral aluminum frame and felt wick on top for even distribution of water through the media.

I’m surprised they didn’t suggest a spring upgrade. Being a garage door company they should know the opener doesn’t really lift the weight of the door. The springs should hold the door in a neutral position so that the opener doesn’t have to do much but yeah it should still match the requirements for that door weight

I would get the correct spring set up and opener or I would replace the insulation with lighter weight insulation or take it off completely

Whatever you do you will have to readjust your spring tension which should be checked yearly or so anyway

That's what I thought too, but check the lines of the boards on the side. It appears the edge visible below the gutter is askew but the gutter itself isn't (or maybe is, hard to tell).

Is there insulation in the ceiling of the garage ? If there isn't then whatever temperature it is in your garage that will be the temp of the floors in the living space above and that will make the insulation on the doors that much more important. How cold/hot does it get where you are ?

Does it need to be evenly distributed ? For heat/cooling retention to be even across the entire door, yes. If you don't care if some parts of the door are less well insulated than others then no.

If your only concern is removing weight from the door then yes, you can remove some/all of the insulation but you need to keep it distributed so that there isn't a lot of difference in the weight of one side of the door vs the other (vertical does not matter as much as horizontal as you don't want one side of the door lagging behind/ahead when the door is being opened/closed).

Honestly taking out half of it is probably not too different from taking out all of it. A single layer of thin steel like a garage door provides basically zero insulation. In a lot of ways you might as well have a window open.

A few things, the drywall is probably mounted to metal rails that are attached in a perpendicular manner to the joists. This is very common in multi family building. It helps suppress sound transmission between the floors.

Find the AC register. It will most likely be be attached to a joist. Once you find one, the others will be 16” or 24” away.

Why are huge sections magnetic?

If it is magnetic in lines going all the way across the ceiling: you have drywall hanging on resilient channel. Great for soundproofing! Unlikely you actually have this. These can be used as your stud.

If it is a huge magnetic section about 16" or 24" across and goes along the entire ceiling (measure where the magnet holds and releases): this is a sheet metal joist cavity air return duct for your floor or the floor above. These are done by slapping some sheet metal between joists and calling it a return duct. If you suspect this is the case, measure the distance between where the magnet lets go and the edges are your joists.

Doing it yourself is seriously super cheap if you're willing to DIY it a bit instead of using pre-cut-for-a-garage-door kits. I have a small one-car garage and by cutting a foam insulation panel myself and installing it with foil tape I did mine for like $30-40.

The trick was doing each section with two pieces, side by side. Each one scored and snapped horizontally so I could insert it slightly folded and when I pressed it in it locked into place against the top and bottom of the panel. On my door there's a small void one one side of each panel, so I slid one piece into that, then inserted another next to it.

It looks great. It works great. Makes the whole garage quieter, even. Dampens rattles when the door is moving. Weighs maybe a pound or two.

Edit: If you're looking to keep a garage warm, it's also well worth checking and possibly replacing seals. It's not very hard to replace the bottom seal, maybe even install a strip on the ground below it. It's also generally not hard to replace the exterior seals on the top and sides. I've done all of the above and having my garage well-sealed has worked wonders on its temperature and keeping out traffic/city noise.

I just replaced 3 hollow core doors with prehung solid core doors for 200 apiece. They are very nice. I also invested in some Plantronics headsets that plug into the pc and phone, the sound blocking is good enough that you can speak at a normal volume on calls.

I’m pretty sure it’s a battery pack, which are being marketed as “gasless generator” or “solar generator”.

Is there a light in the room? Yes. Start measuring.

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Thank you for your feedback! In this particular scenario, it’s a small, lightweight, decorative shelf that will just have a few picture frames (not large enough for a fish tank or even multiple books haha) so I think we are safe; but I appreciate your concern.

This maybe a stupid question, but have you tried charging the battery with the electricity from inside the home?

Orange flames and burner not staying on sounds like your intake air filter is clogged. Pull it out, vacuum it and vacuum everything under the water heater, and reinstall it all.

Thermocouple failure would mean the burner doesn’t light at all. The main valve is shut until the pilot light heats up the thermocouple.

That would be awesome - yes plumbing isn’t set to start until Thursday I believe so we have time ! Thanks again for the help .

If you're not screwing into studs you're setting your friend up for a disaster. Sure it might work for a shelf with a stuffy and a framed picture, but eventually someone will load it with books or a fishtank and it will fail if you're using anchors.

Normally those surrounds have flanges at the top where they should have screws into supports to keep it from falling forward...

If it's falling forward it makes me wonder what happened behind the shower panels to have screws/nails pop out

Get up on a ladder.

Clean the gutters.

Get a long spirit level and check to see if both parts are sloped. They appear to be from your pictures.

If they are properly sloped, you probably have a leak in the corner piece. Clean up the joints on the inside and apply something like FlexSeal to fix the leak. OR the downspout could be clogged. Un-clog it, then test everything with a garden hose.

My (limited) experience repairing dryers is usually the temp sensor fails or the gas solenoid on a gas dryer.

You should be able to find a schematic and manual for your unit and go thru and figure out which has failed, or option two is to just throw parts at it.

I typically use BIN primer and a urethane alkyd paint. Light sand in between coats.

From the images, it looks like the gutters are sloped properly, from "right to left" and around the corner. I believe you, but I don't see why it would pool there. I can understand why it would leak in the corner if the piece is not sealed properly, tho.