Studbuddy

Unless the insulation is excessive for your climate zone it will be providing value constantly, especially as the cost per therm of heating or cooling continues to rise. I’d leave the insulation in place and get a better opener if/when the current one fails.

(Edit) And start saving note for the replacement.

Unfortunately I’m in a first floor condo, so no access from above.

True, I guess if you aren't worried about the benefit of the insulation, then take some off and reduce the weight.

Specs say 120V, 6A, 60Hz, .5HP. While a more powerful opener would indeed solve the issue, it seems more expensive and more difficult to do that rather than dealing with the panels directly.

Go up in the attic and look. Measure between 2, the spacing should be the same. Use the location to measure out to where you want to put the projector. Knowing about where the joist is, use the stud finder or tap on the ceiling and find the more solid sound.

Heat rises, you may want to keep the top half insulated if you choose to remove some.

You could also attach a cord or two to the top of the door, which stretch across the garage to a pulley. Then the rope drops down and holds a counter weight.

It only needs to help the door lift up the first half of the lift.

Whack it with a hammer to loosen some of the rust inside, then oil.

Warranty is new and was part of agreement to purchase the property. While the act of swapping out panels wouldn't be hard, I am looking for the cheapest method to fix the issue, storing extra panels I already own vs replacing all of them and eating the cost is the decision I'm debating.

I have the exact setup you’re planning, I’m away at the minute but if you can wait two days I can send you a picture of the part you need.

expanding foam will push and distort the walls.

If you have access to a welder, weld a nut on top of it. Weld it on the inside of the nut and take it off while it's still hot.

Fix the water and drainage issues, and then pay a mason or concrete worker to skim coat the foundation. Then just paint after, if you want.

I wouldn't be comfortable with plug style anchors either.

Butterfly anchors on the other hand are not just adequate, they're ideal. There is 0 movement, shaking or jiggling here either ....once you snug it up tight, it's mounted until you take it down.

The projector screen, depending on size and if it's the kind that rolls up and down - yea, you'd want that into something structural.

I’ve done projects like this before, but I’ve never had this much of a problem finding a joist. I’ve got no problem with patching a few holes, so this could work.

Spray with penetrating oil and let it sit for a while...repeat...and try again. Is there a way you can get the kickstand/bike on a vice?

Honestly, if your asking questions like this, call a pro. The last thing you’re gonna want is it to come down on you or someone else.

If your ready to do minor repair work, you can use a small (1/8” or smaller) drill bit to drill into the ceiling every 1/2” or so until you hit the stud.

It’s not too heavy, but heavy enough that I wouldn’t be comfortable with just drywall anchors. Same with the projector screen.

How big is the projector?

They aren't very big these days, butterfly style toggle bolts would absolutely hold it up with confidence.

Just be mindful when installing if there is insulation above.

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3/4" ply of any kind should be just fine. The more dense the better. You just don't need pressure treated, which is treated against moisture and the outside environs.

Secure the vanity to the wall, then caulk the joint with Mapesil-T silicone that is as closely matched to the color you want. For a super neat and clean caulk joint, tape off both the wall and the counter, masking off just the area that you want the caulk to go. Caulk the joint and wipe off all excess caulk leaving the edge of the tape near the joint with little or no caulk covering it. Then pull the tape off, revealing a nice cut line. Lastly, use super-soapy water and a finger to smooth out the joint. You have to do this quickly with no time to waste once caulk is applied, or it will be a disaster.

You could always consider a more powerful opener. What size opener is there now?

This is probably your best bet as it keeps it simple and could be found in vintage or classic styles.

A mechanic buddy of mine once showed me a trick to loosen bolts that are stuck:

Heat the bolt with a blowtorch or lighter until it's hot enough to melt candle wax. Then press a candle against it. The candle wax will melt, and the capilary force will pull the wax between the threads, acting as a lubricant.

Works like a charm.