I will jump on the bandwagon with the group saying don't do it.

I suggest hiring a professional to add an outlet inside and outside with connectors. this way you get no air drafts, no unsightly hole in your door.

It's not that difficult to add the outlets and will give you a much better look and function than manually running a cord through a hole in the door.

if you have access to the underside just brace the weak tread with some 2 by material so you don’t have to mess with the carpet. typically carpet on stairs is one piece top to bottom with a bajillion staples. even if you cut one tread to fix it you won’t have enough carpet to reinstall and good luck matching a single stair in the middle with new carpet.

If the house had a previous owner...the warranty might not transfer to the second owner anyways. If you want to do it right, swap those panels out for insulated panels...relatively easy job.

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On the surface, it definitely sounds like it. I'm pretty sure I worded the question in the worst possible way, but I did explain myself in another comment reply

This is some Dennis Reynolds level shit.

Looks like you didn't mix it well enough. Form the volcano, pour a little water in and mix it by working the walls of the volcano into the wet part. You add another bit of the water and work it in until you finish all the water. After that you work the mix for a few extra minutes working it through the full depth, repeat mixing and stabbing with your shovel or trowel. When you think you are done you still lift the mix from the bottom. And fold it upon itself to make sure you didn't leave some dry mix under all. And you mix and stab the mix some more for another 10 minutes.

When you place the mix you have to tamp it in and vibrate it. Make all the bubbles come out allow the gravel to settle into the hole. Them, without overdoing the vibration, the cement sand grout will rise and that is what you float smooth.

As to repairs, if it has set then wirebrush clean while the concrete is weak to expose the agregate. Then you can try a mortar patch. Ideally as thick as possible and with no thin feathered edges as those will just spall as it dries. Close to vertical edges to the patches you are putting in. Hopefully there's something else over the floor to protect it and reduce the risk of the repair popping out.

Mist with water while curing per the instructions. Drying out too much leads to cracking from shrinkage.

Thanks, good suggestion about the foam plug. And yes, it is made of wood and I wasn't sure what to call it since it isn't really a "door" and it also isn't a wall/drywall. I've gotten lots of conflicting advice here so I'm trying to consider everything, but trying to drill through my drywall, insulation, and vinyl siding (like many have suggested) just seems like a much, much, much more likely to cause problems approach.

It closes very tightly, I may see if I can find a 3rd party compatible flat cable (instead of the round supplied), but the connections are not standard ones.

Do I need to worry about high temp drying? Or is the high temp wash enough?

Good idea!

Put them in a delicates washing bag and throw them in the washingmachine with soap on the highest (90 degrees celcius) program.

Depending on what animal hairs and amount of you might want to do it twice (sheep for example; curly hair).

Cleaning by hand unfortunately often results in matting/felt.

Thanks! This was both helpful and reassuring.

Yeah, I said it in a gross way. I just learned about the oil absorbing properties of hair, and I have a poorly formed idea about an oil removing device. To be clear, though, I do NOT plan on putting it in anything that will be eaten or otherwise consumed, I just thought that "food safe" was the most safe one could get hygiene wise

While this is "technically" DIY, I feel that this may be a bit too niche for this group. Also I just threw up in my mouth a little.

From memory, you will be able to see the other end of the bolt. If so : Turn bike upside down Drill and tap a hole into the bolt Screw another bolt in and turn clockwise

Don't listen to anyone telling you not to do something because the next owner may not like it. Fuck that noise, this is your house, your door, and your problem it it goes wrong. Let the next owner worry about the next owner.

With that being said, I say go for it. There shouldn't be any glass there. I would use a hole saw or a spade bit, practice/test in a piece of wood, like a 2x4, before working on your door. Drill from one side until the center bit pokes through the other side then drill from the other side to finish. Google 3/4 in white plugs to find something to plug the hole, maybe stick some insulation in there if you live somewhere cold.

Try not to listen to these naysayers. No matter how badly you mess this up it can always be fixed. Even if you absolutely destroy it, they make new ones in factories every day. It's not an irreplaceable piece of architecture or art and no one will die if a door gets ruined. Just go slow, take your time, and stop and reassess if something doesn't seem right.

Yeah. Only modify doors for stuff like cat flaps or peepholes. Never for cables even if it seems like a good idea.

Even if you use bonding agent yes

Same search, but for rubber.

The frame around the door is usually a hole already (so it can be adjusted for the door, straight and level as compared to the wall), just need to remove the door trims around the door. Don't drill in the door.

Rugs imo can never replicate the softness that quality carpeting with double thick padding has. My sons have likely avoided multiple concussions because I carpeted my basement playroom and great room. Hardwood is nice and my bedrooms, kitchen, dining area and hallways have it. Soft carpet in select rooms is nice as well.

Where you live? I'm in NY and got a place that sells solid core six panel for about 100$. Home depot sells it for around 300$.

It'd be better to go through a wall than your door imo

get a friend to spot weld a nut onto the bolt head, then use wrench as normal.