Is there a window you could pass it through? You can cut a pool noodle or piece of pipe insulation to width stick that in there and shut the window on it to seal the gap around the cord.

That is how I would do it.

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Had something similar. After trying a bunch of ideas, ended up drilling the support around the bolt, the metal is likely much lighter than the bolt itself. In my case it felt like aluminum, so quite soft. The bolt was probably steel, I started out trying to drill the bolt and didn't get anywhere :) If you don't own power tools you can still try to borrow or rent. Get a metal drill bit with it (or buy one).

This is super informative, thank you!

Or hear me out. Wood floors, but nice area rugs. When you want to change decor you can replace the rug.

Just my 2 cents worth, but now that I know you have a saw… remove the rear wheel and fender, then cut along next to the frame towards the bolt. It looks to be aluminium, so once you get to the bolt, you could take a flat blade screw driver and “lever” it apart. Good luck Edited to add: if strength is an issue, you can hammer a wedge “flat blade screw driver” into the cut made by the saw. Again, good luck

It's a fresh air make-up, the idea being that new homes are so sealed up, if fresh air isn't introduced through a vent, rather than all the gaps, leaks, and shitty build quality, people might get woozy, unless they happen to open an outside door once or twice a day.

Anyway, it would be better if there was a barometric damper on the vent so that it only lets in air when the pressure inside the house is less than outside.

Better still, they're now hooking the end of the duct to the return, so that the outside air gets heated or cooled instead of just being dumped into the home at -15F.

You didn't hear it from me, but most people just stuff them with towels or find a bucket that fits.

Oh, and, no, CO isn't going to be sucked into your home, ffs, the furnace would know about that and turn itself off. That's actually one of the very few things a furnace is smart enough to do.

Agree with the above, I would use 1x2 around the perimeter to make it easier since it’ll be minimal amount of cutting. I also don’t like the cross brace of the brackets. The furring strips you linked to will work. However, take a look at the non-furring 1x2s. They are a few bucks more but will be straighter.

Couple of other notes:

1. Pre drill the 1x2
2. I like torx head screws. Grk makes some great products. The R4 or finish screws are awesome.
3. Make sure you screw the plywood into the cleats

Expanding foam will split the door if you even slightly overfill any given compartment.

You might be able to use just a spritz of foam to connect the sides and and reduce some of the “drum” vibration of the door, but you realistically aren’t going to fill up significant space with foam unless you are exceedingly slow and careful and go in many many steps.

Nope. That would be way too much water. The least amount of water the better. The reason you see it so watered down is because it's easier to work with but it's wrong and makes for a very weak concrete that will crack and crumble in a few years. They make plasticizer additives that once added will make what looks like an almost dry mix look and act like it has 2 times too much water.

Check out this youtube video where they take a super dry mix, add a tiny bit of plasticizer and within a few seconds of mixing, it looks like someone dumped a gallon of water in it.

Interesting. I'll have to check into it a bit more.

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If it has dry mix then it doesnt have the right amount of water

Anyways looks like they added water to the mix versus adding the mix to the water which results in a bad blend

That looks about right with the water. The less water the stronger the concrete will become when fully cured. It shouldn't have any dry mix, however.

Half the soviet union lived with carpets on the walls, to provide some sound (and little bit of heat) insulation in the crappy commie blocks.

It's not exactly a good solution, but better than nothing.

It's fine. You can add a little more concrete to it as start troweling it until the surface becomes smooth. If it has already started setting up, Just mix up a slurry with the concrete mix but remove the large stones. Then work the slurry it in to the voids and trowel smooth.

For the plaster, use something like this to reinforce it since you probably knocked off the keys (the plaster that was pushed through the lath and hardened after drooping a bit, that’s what normally holds the plaster tightly to the lath.) when you were cutting.

https://plastermagic.com/adhesive-reattachment/

Turn bike upside down. Shield everything with bits of scrap steel, hit the aluminum kickstand piece underneath that the flat socket hex head screw is threaded into with the hottest torch you have, whack either the exposed end of the screw or the aluminum with a hammer, or whack the head with a punch and hammer, try again. You want to shock the steel fastener and loosen the aluminum oxide that is gluing it to the crappy alloy the kickstand is made of.

Solid core door, or hang a heavy sound-absorbing curtain over the door and as much of the adjacent wall as possible.

Thank you - I have zero plumbing experience and I’m basically telling my father (who has basic plumbing knowledge) what I want so that we can make a plan on how we can build it together. Trying to get my 35 square foot bathroom done in a week - wish us luck !

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Very true. Do not cut on the tempered glass.

Installing a cat door is not impossible though. It's just not cheap.

Glass can be fabricated into "any" shape before it is tempered.

You could remove the existing glass, and replace it with a custom piece which has a cut out for your cats door.

Temporary fix? What if you added grommets or something to a thick packing blanket and hung it like curtains on the inside of the office?

If you have a Habitat for Humanity ReStore in your area you can get used doors there super cheap.