Oof, that's a doozy.

If you have a friend with too many tools see if they have an impact driver with a 90 degree adapter.

I would be very very worried about rounding off that Allen bolt. Make absolutely sure any tool you use is perfectly seated and tight before you apply any force.

Because that's plaster and it's an absolute nightmare. I had it at my last house. The worst

Not necessarily, but a lot depends on your local code and requirements

When you inevitably destroy the bolt and can't get it out, get like a dremel and some metal cutting disks and cut through the bar that the bolt is screwed in through.

I'm with you on not wanting a TV above the fireplace.

But is no TV at all better?

Is TV just not a big thing in your family, or do you have a different room for TV watching?

But shouldn't there be a damper or a vent cover or something? It's just a straight duct to the outside.

In addition, you need mass to stop sound if the item is not absorbent, such as an engineered acoustic foam. Spray foam won’t do anything.

Just last week I replaced all the hollow core doors with solid core in my home. Highly recommend, would buy again, A++

Masonite makes affordable solid core door slabs, and they’re heavy beasts, probably 50lb each. If you’re going to take the doors off, you might as well get those. To finish the slabs you will need:

• Ryobi hinge jig
• Milwaukee knob jig
• Ryobi latch jig
• Drill
• Router
• Hand Planer

I got 6 doors knocked out per day, this included removal, sizing, cutting, painting, and mounting. If it weren’t for the tools and especially jigs, this would not be possible. I also included a video that shows a door vice a guy made. Used that, and it made things way easier.

I made a paint booth in the garage and used a grayco tc pro sprayer, and it has been awesome to use.

When I took apart one of my hollow cores, the hollow core was in fact, not honeycomb but exactly what this video shows. I had been told of dumping sand inside the door. Might be worth a try. But I didn’t like the idea of sand leaking out or stressing the already minimal construction of a hollow core.

https://youtu.be/cyV9za51TX8

https://youtu.be/Irlv772Pejk

Just go for it

As another poster said you will need a bigger hole than you think. If you decide to go this route drill a hole in a scrap 2x4 to make sure you have a big enough hole to pass the cord through. Then go to the hardware store(s) to find the right plugs.

I would find a different section of wall and put a mail plug in a weathertight box on the outside and put a standard outlet on the inside. Probably label them so no one is confused in the future. Something like this, but built for a home, search page. Bring a picture to a big box or electical supply.

Put the male on the outside and a regular outlet on the inside - in the same stud cavity. Use proper size romex - cut it long so you can do all of the fishing with boxes out.

This will not be up to code, but will only be a danger when power is applied.

If you're only storing a little bit of left-over paint, the original cans will have too much air space and the paint will degrade faster. Also, they take up a lot more space.

The foam might pot the door skins

atmospheric vented gas furnace? if so it's providing make up air for combustion, and yes, it's necessary. Without it you might suck exhaust and CO back into you home.

The modern method that carpet installers use on stairs is staples, not tack strips. They typically staple into the toekicks, not the treads. If you have tack strips installed under the tread nosing, you will have to pull the carpet down and out... once you've cut through.

Yea that'll do. Once the wood is fastened to studs, it's not going anywhere

I do see people advertising hardcore (that’s what we call that stuff in the Uk) for free on things like fbook marketplace. But it’s available in abundance, so it’s not that often people actually need it

Fixing a hole in the door is going to cost more than paying someone to come out and install a proper pass through. A more permanent solution that running extension cords should be set up though.

Penetrating oil and tapping it with a hammer, will loosen the corrosion, when you get it move a little, turn it back and forth, never just in one direction ad more oil as necessary until you can back it all the way out.

the diverter on the faucet chooses either faucet or showerhead
there's typically a separate diverter to choose rainfall or handheld

Not sure if what you want exists - it may - but this is how it's typically done

I did that in my old property, but where I live now we don’t have wheelie bins, they send out plastic bags for your waste and you just leave them on the side of the road for collection. The bags aren’t very strong so risk it getting spilled all over the road or not collected at all.

I mean, I do get rid of little amounts, but it’s hardly worth it. Would take me the best part of 30 years to get rid of it that way

If you want to deaden sound you need a door with density and a good seal and threshold.

Inside doors really aren't that expensive, about $90-$100. You'll need to cut the door to fit your opening but you can use the old door as a template. You'll also need to chisel out the hinge locations but you can use the old door to see where these go as well. Finally, you'll need to drill out the door handle and again you can use the old door to determine where this should be.

Most North American big box hardware stores will let you rent tools like a hammer drill of the correct size.

Allen key up top, wrench on the nut below. Maybe hit it with some WD-40 if you have access to it. Let that doak in for 15 minutes or so. Wear a leather glove especially on a hand pushing an allen key it wont dig into your skin and hurt so you can push on it harder. If you are having trouble getting in there take the wheel off to give yourself more room to work.

Drain it and get yourself a furniture moving trolley

What is a better option for the wood choice?