If it's low voltage, find an alarm or home AV tech. Those guys are magicians at running wire through existing space and keeping it hidden,and they are probably cheaper than a licensed electrician.

PVC repair is very easy and cheap. If close to the pump, replace the whole section from the pump to give yourself room to make the connections.

I find it's best not to read the instructions at all. If you've ever seen concrete pours done on TV, you know the consistency you want -- partially melted ice cream made of rock. Add a little water at a time until you're there, stirring, folding, and kneading the whole time with a shovel. Shovel it in the cleaned out hole, smooth the surface, bingo.

Mix more than you think you need -- worst case scenario, you got yourself a boat anchor, but you had enough to finish the job and that's what matters.

What you're at now is "hammer and chisel it all out and start again" -- make sure to use eye protection and gloves.

Rip some strips from the edges of your plywood for the cleats. Make them, I dunno, 2" tall and screw the strips to the studs. Shouldn't use pressure treated indoors.

Can you explain what you mean by pull the carpet down and out… I assume something to do with the tack strip?

It would absorb some sound for sure. Basically anything heavy, flexible and thick will help.

Use a utility with a hooked carpet blade. Start in the corner where the carpet goes back under the broken tread's overhang. Cut all the way across until you've cut all the way through. Pull the carpet down and out, then fold it back. Purchase a length of stair tread... typically Southern Yellow Pine. Remove the broken tread. Use it to determine the length of the new tread. Cut the new tread and fasten it into the stringers using 10d Box Nails. Pull the carpet tightly over the tread and staple the carpet into the underside of the tread nose.

Does your door have no jamb my good man? You can't just go around drilling holes in doors like a common ruffian!

To add to this, a door like the one you are thinking of drilling through is probably around $300 to 400 to replace DIY, double that to have it done professionally.

I'm not sure what you (OP) need to use the battery for, but also worth seeing if that connection is available in a flat cable. (12v or household 120v are both available)

Great info, thank you.

Carpet... On the door...? Do people do this? Does it do anything lol

Would the work be worth it in the end? How much insulation would you use compared to the price of a new door?

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I would try to mount the TV on studs. I've always been able to find studs by shining a flashlight on the wall at a sharp angle. With the room moderately dark you should be able to see the slight imperfections where the drywall nails are.

And wire up a proper outdoor box with an inverted plug instead of some suicide wire approach.

Solid core molded doors aren't that expensive, maybe you can even get it without the door frame and save more money. Home Depot or Lowe's can custom order it.

Would be better to move the hole over if you can. If not lick the stamp and send it. If it were a group of studs that's one thing. One stud turned 90 in the middle of the wall? Nbd.

Need to know more about the specific equipment, but something doesn’t sound right. Pics would be immensely helpful.

This is the answer. Hollow core doors are poor sound blockers but much better than air gaps. Work on installing weatherstripping and door sweeps. Then open the window because your co2 is going to build up and get stuffy.

You can get those exact ones. They're more expensive that way but if you only need a handful it's quicker and easier.

Yes, typically called a bonding agent. It's a good idea when adding new concrete to old.

stud finder

First world problem

You need to buy an electronic stud finder/sensor with the ability to detect voltage behind the wall. Stanley sells one.

Why are people being so mean to each other in this comment section? No need to shell out personal insults. The subject is pretty innocuous