I replaced the heating element on my Samsung dryer twice. There are youtube videos of exactly how to do it and the part is like 15 dollars on Amazon. It's easy to test to make sure that's it also.

If ths screw comes up a little bit, use a pair of locking pliers (vicegrips) to grab the head and pull up hard while turning it. This usually works on these pesky floor drain cover screws. Then you can use the next size up thread tap and put in a stainless steel screw (that way it won't corrode).

Note: I saw you mention using a drill to take the head of the screw off. You can do this, but you may need to use a pair of pliers to keep the screw from spinning while you drill it.

That would not be worth the cost or effort to be.

Surely there are more important areas to spend your money or time?

You could try filling the gaps with some acrylic mortar repair sealant then painting over em.

I reuse brick/mortar/rubble as fill or in low-stakes mortar just like you’re suggesting. Good idea if you ask me 😎

Brake fluid will eat the paint

Screw into the stud.

Search CL or marketplace for a used door.

Reducing sound transfer requires that you seal all of the gaps first, then add mass and air gaps.

Maybe I'm seeing an optical illusion here, but sure looks like that 2x4 is rotated 90 degrees from how you'd normally have a stud oriented. And is it even a 2x4? Might be a 2x3.

Only time I've intentionally framed one rotated that way for anything structural was in a corner. Otherwise, it might only be serving to hold drywall, so if that's the case, there shouldn't be much worry in hacking it up a bit.

> Or try simply closing the door on the wires

Didn't you read? It's a non-opening door. /s

I just need a quick nap

This is going to be the worst job you’ve ever signed up for. Don’t do it.

You started out your post by saying you're not a handy person. Please take it from a professional contractor and everyone else here. It is a horrible idea to drill a hole through a door for this purpose.

Not only would you be creating a cold spot and water intrusion spot. The hole would need to be bigger than 3/4" as the plug end of a power cord requires 1-1/4" to pass through. Multiple cords equals a bigger hole.

Additionally, you're creating a serious trip hazard.

More information is needed to determine what exactly it is you're trying to do. People hook up generators (solar or otherwise) to their electrical panels but there are absolutely necessary safety requirements to doing so. If you're adamant about running a power cord from outside to inside, open a window and run it that way. If needed, cut a board to fit a partially opened window and drill a hole in it for your cords.

Just please do not put a hole in your french doors.

You're getting downvoted but you deserve better -- everything you're saying about this is the voice of reason and experience. Perhaps a popularity contest is not the best way to determine the relevance or quality of an idea.

Adhesive backed cork squares - available at office supply stores might be an easy, more attractive option.

I'd start with the steel-edged rubber weather stripping and a door sweep. Get the thing completely sealed. You could hang a sheet of concrete in place of the door, but sound will travel through all the gaps.

Then, get some Owens Corning 703 insulation - it's like fiberglass, but very stiff and you can cut it into shapes, and it's very dense for its weight. Wrap it in burlap or make 1x lumber frames for it and then wrap those - the burlap keeps fibers from shedding, and you can get all sorts of colors. You can treat the panels like bulletin boards and pin photos/etc. to them. Mount those to the door to fully cover the "hollow" panels. That's what's used in sound deadening panels, bass traps, and corner traps in recording studios and is a popular DIY sound deadener. All of that may not make a huge difference though, soundproofing requires a lot of density and air sealing. Putting acoustic panels on walls and ceilings doesn't soundproof a room, it just deadens sound reflections. (I do a lot of video and music editing; my office space has 703 panels hanging from the ceiling, in the corners and on the back walls - it's very noticeable when you walk in the room that something's "changed", but if you don't point out that it has to do with sound, it can kinda freak people out).

The fumes only make it hard to focus and stay up :-)

Thanks for the feedback my wife is looking for more a vintage classic look in the bathroom so the digital system is out of the question. I would sacrifice the hand held shower if I was unable to figure it out.

Depending on the place you are, the things you are suggestion would void any homeowner warranty claims in all sorts of situations.

I would instead suggest either providing much more info about the specific needs you are trying to meet (all the stuff you are just leaving out for some reason) OR just get a small enclosure you can keep the generator in.

I have done similar work.

I found a floor scraper at home depot to be the sturdiest option.
Also used a big drywall sander, then a little bit of skim coating.

If your going the grinder route have someone lightly pouring water over it the whole time. Dont breathe the dust!

I don't know anything about concrete, but given the existence of the post, and the tray of mix looking like sand... I can only concur

Sometimes it helps to be able to recognize when it's actually you yourself that might not be getting something.

Doors are expensive. You will never be able to repair it to hide the damage. Much better to drill a hole through the wall, which you can easily repair (unless you have some exotic stone on the outside of the house).

I still don't like the idea - it would be much better to place the battery in a waterproof box and leave it outside. They can be had very cheaply.

The generator/battery and panel manufacturer(s) - or the local distributors of such components in your area - should have connector options available to go from the exterior to the interior...

Generally speaking, it is a BAD idea to use a hole for temporary cable runs between the exterior & the interior. Most likely, too, it's going to violate at least a code or two...

To answer your original question, though: Yes, absolutely, you can drill a hole through that door in that area...

Bear in mind that you'll most likely be penetrating a very thin steel skin, passing through a foam core, and then encountering another very thin steel skin. Use a sharp bit, NOT elbow grease, or else you'll also be smoothing some sheet metal as well. AND make sure that you drill the correct hole size for the proper CONNECTOR that you'll be using, instead!