Recent comments in /f/DIY

TheLargeIsTheMessage t1_j6gljnl wrote

>non-open-able door

People in this thread seem to be missing this. A non-openable door is not a door. I assume it's made of wood. If so, drill away.

Suggestions:

  1. Use a spade bit so that a bit of pokey-ness of the drill comes out the other side before the hole is cleared. Then switch sides and drill back in, which reduces tear-out.

  2. get a piece of closed cell foam (you can check by trying to blow through it, no air going through means it's closed cell, a pool noodle or a foam mat would work), and use that for your plug, just cut with scissors. Hot-glue them together to make it as thick as your door. If you want to make it pretty, glue a circular piece of wood to this foam plug. Make the foam plug slightly larger than the hole.

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ntyperteasy t1_j6glg7r wrote

Remove the rear wheel and the fender - you will have much better access to the bolt. I think that will get you where you need to be.

A section of metal pipe can be used to extend the length of your wrench to get more leverage.

Is there a nut on the bottom? Can you get a wrench on that?

If you decide to use heat (a torch) then you must remove the rear wheel and fender and clean the grease off the chain, etc., or it will quickly catch on fire. I don't think this is a good DIY method.

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SyntheticOne t1_j6glc1d wrote

My sage advice is to call an electrician. The expert will evaluate what you want to get done and then will do it in a way that will probably both surprise you and look much better than your idea. If the electrician shows up and is dressed like Merlin the Magician it's because they really can be magicians when getting electrons through walls.

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codyish t1_j6gkuem wrote

Others have said it but I'll agree - this is almost certainly not worth the effort. You'll have to put in a lot of effort to avoid inhaling fine concrete dust at best or lead at worst and the only thing you'll learn is that concrete that old is incredibly hard and that jobs like this eat through grinding wheels and are incredibly hard on your elbows, shoulders, and ears.

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chopsuwe t1_j6gkjvw wrote

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ntyperteasy t1_j6gjmof wrote

I think the people before me having covered everything - its a cheap method to finish poor quality drywall work. Also commonly used to hide damage... Would make me very suspicious there is/was a leak or some other problem they decided to cover up.

If the building is very new, then asbestos shouldn't be an issue. If it is asbestos, there is nothing you can do without getting asbestos remediation done first.

About removing it - the common method is to scrape it off. Then you would sand (with a vacuum) and try to finish the drywall on the ceiling properly, which will be a PITA. You may find it easier overall to scrape to get it generally flat then add another thin (1/4" or 3/8" thick) layer of drywall and finish that.

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blurredaffiliation t1_j6gigve wrote

Front loader is shocks or springs all the way. YouTube video 2 min, first timer? One hour. Willingness to do it? 200%. Good on you. You'll save so much money.

BTW if your unit has part numbers on the pieces it will make your search shorter. Search your unit number and the problem "shaking spin" and you will find tons of videos.

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DistributionLatter t1_j6ggv85 wrote

I have been wondering the same myself. I saw some diverters on Alibaba that “seem” to allow any combination of outlets to be run. However, I’m starting to look at Kohler’s digital systems as those appeal to my nerdiness. And, of course, with those types of systems, you can go way over the top with how many spigots and sprayers and jets you can get going.

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