Thank you, especially for pointing this out:

> VOC is not about direct human toxicity

You can get silicosis from a project like this. The lung damage is permanent and no joke.

Don’t do it. But if you do a job this size, get a respirator that covers your entire face, preferably with an oxygen tank.

Just glue one of those sound dampening foam mat things to the inside of the door.

If you really need this thing out of your basement & are doing it on your own property, just chop it up. The quantity of refrigerant in one unit isn't a big deal.

You are suggesting damaging a 1000+/- dollar door to run a cord.

Going through an adjacent wall is likely simpler to do and repair.

No, I mean yes. But you’d need to drill close to 300 holes and spray.

They doors are filled with a cardboard honeycomb shape. So the foam will only fill one section.

I mention in some other replies that I'll likely need to be using the battery while it is charging, so having it outside isn't really an option. The cable that comes with it for the panel is round and I think a custom one, but I'll at least check to see if a 3rd party flat cable is available, though my door does close tightly.

Unfortunately the battery/generator is extremely expensive and not weatherproof (while the solar panel is). On top of that, in situations where I'll be using it, I'll likely need to be solar charging and also having things connected to it at the same time, which would means cords needed to be run indoors regardless. I was/am hoping that a single hole drilled in the door would be an easy answer without complications or things that could go wrong.

I replaced a 10mm keyed chuck with a 13mm keyless one. It will cost more than buying the right bit, but will increase the chuck capacity for future projects.

Replace the sensor. I had one where I had to repeatedly replace the sensor. It is a design flaw. The sensor is a tiny plastic part, but mine had cost about $20. It is very sensitive to dust, dirt, water, etc. and it will blow and tank won't work. You can google your model and find where the sensor is on it. Mine was under the temp control. Then remove it or get the part number online and google how to buy one.

Good tip, thank you.

I considered that approach, but the cable is a custom one for this unit and is round rather than flat, and the door closes very tightly. If it was a flat cable or a generic one where I could just buy a flat one I'd go that route, but in this case it unfortunately isn't an option.

God to know, thanks.

Be sure it’s not something applied before asbestos was banned. Not sure the age of your home or the country.

Thanks, good tip about the scrap wood, I'll definitely do that first.

Knockdown hides less than perfect finishing & is extremely common in tract/spec homes. Your best options are either skim coating the entire ceiling, or laminating with 1/4” rock. I would choose option #2.

No way. If it’s just drywall backing cut away. I would cut it out without hesitation.

Brace a 2x across from stud to stud and frame in the door fully, you will be fine

Find a way to run electrical conduit through a wall. The door is a bad idea.

Too bad that Honeywell turned to garbage. I wonder where their parts are manufactured? 🤔

Maybe you could put something on the walls near the source? Ideas for soundproofing

What's the rough in for a cat door?

After everything. Countertop to tile. Clear or translucent depending on the look you are going for silicone

we had that problem 2 days ago. It was our thermostat. A guy fixed it for us though.

Cutting it up is a good idea too