I went through this pain over the summer. It turned out that the genius who owned my house before me had enclosed the top of the microwave after he'd bolted it in place from above. I ended up having to cut a hole in the false front of the cabinetry above to get to them to swap it out.

Thank you for the comment. I'm going to avoid the torch as much as possible. I think that I will try to gain more leverage on it with a pipe first. If that fails and damages the bolt, then I suppose destructive methods were inevitable. Unfortunately cutting the top part of the bracket wouldn't completely free the bolt as the top part would not fit through the hole in the bottom plate under it.

You can rent a stairs climbing dolly. They lift the dolly on each step so you don't have to.

Cheap ugly soundproofing. Glue styrofoam to the inside of your door. Emphasis on ugly.

Hopping on the mason jar hype train. The fact that they’re glass makes them a lot easier to wash, and with the 4oz and 8oz ones I’ve been able to put the jars through the dish washer. They hand wash nicely which was a priority when I first began using them in school (dorms).

About 11 years. It has two fault codes: one for low coolant pressure and another one for failed upper element (which i could not budge).

Quite an interesting idea! It's a shame that I don't have power tools else I could have attempted it. I'll go with less destructive methods first and see if anything changes.

It appears that your post has been deleted.

Nvm, saw the pic now.

It will be much cheaper/easier to just put the battery in a waterproof Rubbermaid container and have it sit outside with the panels.

If you must do this, I wouldn't do it through the door, otherwise you'll end up having to replace the door whenever you move out (or sooner if your plug ends up leaking).

Also look for things like flat cables, you might very easily be able to just run the cable under the other door.

There is welded-on material under the bracket that would prevent it from coming out of the bottom. The bracket also hits the frame while it turns.

Wish I could get it repaired. A new one is about $2,900.

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What was it, mods have removed your post.

Replace the thermocouple. when you do make sure electricity and gas to the system is off. It's cheap to try but will likely not buy you much time. When you do replace the coupler, drain the hot water tank. The will belp flush and crap out of it. Also clean stuff off and out as best you clean with a soft wire brush. It will cost you under 20.00 in most cases to try. Regardless if it works or not, prepare to replace it soon. I just replaced mine. It was 11 years old under same situation I bought an additional 2 years by doing this. Now ive upgraded to a 40 gallon . If you dont already have a 40 gallon, I don't recommend the upgrade if you have teens in the house. The more hot water available, the more they use it :/

Ex bicycle mechanic here: first, take the wheel and fender off to give yourself more room to work. Penetrating oil may work if it's available. Heating the bits with a torch (avoid the frame itself as much as possible) has done wonders for stuck parts but may cause visual damage to the surrounding paint. All else fails destructive removal may be required: either drill the bolt out, cut the top/bottom plates on the kickstand (careful not to nic the frame), or if you can find something that fits: cut the bolt through the middle once the wheel and fender are out of the way.

Thank you for the suggestions! I think the easiest thing to try first is the pipe to gain additional leverage. Given all the things that I have tried, my strength has been one of the limiting factors. Other options such as power tools or heating aren't practical in my case. I'd like to avoid spending singificant amounts here.

The 50 gallon is only 63 pounds lighter than the 80 (281 vs 218 for Rheem). Still a two person job with stairs.

Pour some Coca-Cola on it. My grandfather was a crafty mechanic.

oh this is a good idea! we did solve this (see edit) but I like this idea. thanks!

Tightening and loosening I have tried to no avail. Unfortunately, hammering is not feasible given my setup, which is basic hand tools and the public bike shed as my work area.

>Just start with exposed screws

This is essentially what we did. started taking it apart. we figured it out. see edit.

Nice!! How many years did your 80 last? The 50 I helped install is about 6 years old now and problem free so far.

This right here. If you've already found the leak you might want to just do the work yourself. It's really easy to filx that tubing.

this is a really good idea and would have helped for sure. we did solve the issue- see edit!