So then you'd know you should be able to flip the bike upside down and cut the bottom bracket off from the underside, right?

Yet you have no issue with the blow torch idea (grease, paint, rubber, fire, etc.)?

I'm here to give ideas and try to be helpful, not hold hands.

You have a great day now.

Is there anything holding it up from the bottom rear?

Generally absolutely not.

Welding shops don’t want some kid with a bike hanging around for a $10 job. But even if in your fictional world there was no bike shop within a million miles, any car mechanic would know how to twist the bolt loooooong before breaking out a welder.

Whelp, I learned something today. Thank you!

Google “easy out.” Buy one or a set and keep it in a safe place as you will be using it the rest of your life. Very handy tool that I use every year or two.

Have you tried to tighten the bolt, then loosen the bolt, over and over again, try to get a little movement to let the penetrating oil work in.

Do you have anything to wedge against the top of the kickstand to prevent it from twisting

Well, I work on a lot of old bikes and have never once needed an angle grinder but I’m sure you’re an expert.

Just like I’m sure

-You won’t have difficulty getting even a small grinder in that tight space

-Op, who based on the question is clearly inexperienced won’t overcut into the relatively soft and thin frame, and that kickstand area is where three structural members join (actually four members)

-Op surely has the correct cutting disc and face shield, right?

But ok, your advice to use a grinder is Aces.

In addition to the internal structure only pockets of volume are accessible through a single hole. And more important, foam is hard to control. You run the risk of your door separating due to the trapped expanding foam.

Try hanging a carpet on the door.

Maybe, if there are any, as a last result.

Generally garages with welders are a lot easier to find and cheaper. We did a lot of times for many different situations.

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Can you rent a bigger drill for an afternoon?

By the time you count time and effort, I think youd be better off buying a hollowcore slab

No. If they are taking it anywhere take to to a bike shop who has removed a billion stuck kickstands.

Never hammer a bike frame.

Knock on it. Plaster is much more solid, like concrete. Also, a test hole somewhere inconspicuous is a good idea. The good news is looks like a small toggle bolt will work in that hole.

Only an inch? Cut it and forget about it. I think it’s mostly there to support the drywall.

Try sticking a push pin into it. You will be able to insert a pushpin into drywall. Not into a plaster wall or cement board.

Plaster went out of style (well, cheaper alternatives won) in the 1950's to early 1960's. After that, houses were all drywall. Very old houses will have plaster over wood lath. During the 1950's and 1960's it was usually plaster over a product that looked a lot like drywall, but was made to replace the wood lath. The plaster will be thick and quite hard - makes a nice wall!

That said, it's always better to think of ways to land the screws on studs anyway. Try to re-imagine your plan if you can.

This is funny. I was staring at my identical doors today wondering if I could use a glass cutter to take out a bottom “pane” area for a makeshift cat door!

In this thread: people who don’t have a clue about bicycle repair.

Hit the bolt - great way to bend a frame

Use a snipe on a socket wrench - totally unnecessary and another good way to bend or break something if trying it alone

Flame or welding - again totally unnecessary

This damage is from a cheap or under-sized hex or other improper tool wrecking the head.

I wok on a lot of bikes and a proper oversized hex socket will still fit in that head but the op may be a child without the strength to turn it.

Hand drilling it out with left thread extractors will work like charm.

Power drilling increasing size pilot holes from underneath will also work.

I watch YouTube. Pretty sure rockler/kreg/sawstop/squarespace or nord vpn can supply them.

I don't see any problem with this, and it's quite common in building new construction to plow under this sort of debris.

If the structure is pre-1970, I would NOT bury any bricks that have been painted, as it is likely lead paint

The thinking is that you don't want to bury things that are actually toxic, or will breakdown and become toxins, or collapse and create a low spot in your garden over time (I buried a hay bale once, I can still see the low spot in the yard). Bricks, mortar, concrete rubble don't have these problems.

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The plaster side is the original framing and probably more important. Maybe frame it like a mini door though.

If op is asking how to remove this simple bolt they def don’t know how dangerous an angle grinder is in untrained hands. Pls use common sense when recommending things.