Recent comments in /f/DIY
NeroBoBero t1_j6fneli wrote
Reply to Can I drill a hole in this door, and are there open/closable hole caps I can add to both sides? by rolliejoe
It’s a terrible idea to drill through a door when there are other options. The best solution would be to drill through floorboards or flashing around the door frame rather than through a door.
[deleted] t1_j6fne9o wrote
Reply to comment by Sevulturus in Is it okay to cut out a small section of a drywall stud? by Wolferesque
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didntfindmyfeet t1_j6fncll wrote
Do a lead test first please! If you grind that or sand blast that paint away the lead will be in your dirt on your feet. If there are little kids around it will get in their mouths and on their hands on their feet and then into their blood. Lead will be everywhere for a long time. Box stores have the tests.
aray0220 t1_j6fn3vy wrote
Shouldn't be a problem. You could always reinforce but I doubt it's that serious.
bill_gannon t1_j6fn20j wrote
Ask a local garage to weld a small nut to it.
Sevulturus t1_j6fmto7 wrote
I'd send it.
You could probably sister a second piece in there with the space you have.
kytheon t1_j6fmrpe wrote
Reply to comment by Reptar4President in Turned an Outdated Living Room into a Functional Living/Play Room by Reptar4President
Also get a CO meter, just in case.
LeatherDonkey140 t1_j6fmj7h wrote
Reply to comment by csth in Request for feedback on my shelf design by csth
2 brackets?
nicolasknight t1_j6fmaml wrote
Reply to Any way to use a 12mm shank drill bit in a drill chuck that only accepts up to 10mm? by CephasPetraPeter
Buy a corded one at Harbor Freight, drill your holes, return it.
There isn't a safe way to do this.
You CAN replace the head with an after market but it will cost you more than the cheap drill.
zachariahd1 t1_j6fm3r2 wrote
Reply to comment by Remy4409 in Best way to flatten concrete walls outside of my house? by Remy4409
Not it you roll on a concrete bonder first
Remy4409 OP t1_j6flyhj wrote
Reply to comment by zachariahd1 in Best way to flatten concrete walls outside of my house? by Remy4409
Yeah, but I still have to strip the paint.
No_Pomegranate2580 t1_j6flb3q wrote
Reply to Can this concrete be salvaged? by md9918
I would ask on one of the concrete subs.
2001sleeper t1_j6fl22p wrote
Reply to comment by csth in Request for feedback on my shelf design by csth
Gives you more flexibility to put the brackets right where you need them and allows for more contact points.
AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_j6fkuvv wrote
Reply to comment by HomeImproverDIY in How to fix deep scratches in engineered wood floors? by _sugartits
I'll give you a very long answer, sorry.
First- for rubio - 0.1% is low, for sure. Most hardeners contain 10-25% HDI. Their MSDS claims 0.5% of free HDI, not 0.1%, FWIW.
Claims that it is not toxic are wrong. They are a huge offender in the "sell people bullshit" category. Do not get me wrong - it is definitely less toxic - it is about two orders of magnitude less toxic to use than other things.
But it is not non-toxic. Don't take my word for it, look at the MSDS: https://ardec.ca/media/catalog/documents/MSDS_Rubio_Monocoat_Oil_Plus_2C_-_comp._B_EN.pdf
Look at what the PPE requirements are, etc.
If it was non-toxic, it would say it was not toxic and had nothing that required reporting at all. The MSDS for non-toxic things do not say "wear gloves and a respirator". They say "no hazardous chemicals or chemicals required to be reported".
Their MSDS does not say that, because it's not non-toxic.
If you look at older SDS from ~2008, it was classed also as specifically toxic to your respiratory tract, but no longer. Part of this is just that these are not sprayed, and warn against spraying. Isocyanate reacts really fast. So the most hazard is often when spraying it, from spray bounce back. It reacts fast enough that, say, rolling it does not generate a detectable level at breathing height. This means when they are meant for wiping, they are classed as less dangerous, and the precautions are mostly around skin contact.
So monocoat is better than most things. Despite hating them taking advantage of people, I would use it!
You can see it is low enough that it is generally classed as sensitizing rather than dangerous.
Compare to the bona traffic hd SDS: https://www.bona.com/globalassets/catalogassets/bona-traffic-hd-hardener-english-us-bona-us-united-states-us-sds-hcs-2012.pdf
But even for monocoat the PPE required is still gloves and respirator, and you should do that.
They probably mean that it's not toxic when cured, which they are required to test/prove. This is true of basically all wood finishes in the US due to various regulations.
In the end, look, lots of things in your body can be replaced. Not that you should live life trying to kill your organs, but like, liver and kidney transplants and such are not a complete death sentence. People often live full lives.
Lung issues, however, are often quite bad. IPF, etc are basically a death sentence. Lung transplants have one of the lowest 5 year survival rate of any organ. As a careful woodworker, i've seen too many woodworkers not use a mask with wood dust or spray finishing, and end up dying of lung issues at 55/60.
Don't fuck with your lungs, and don't let some company selling shit like this convince you to do it.
Second - VOC is not about direct human toxicity. At all I wish all these low-voc companies were literally required to tell people this. Companies know that people associate VOC with toxicity (IE low VOC = non toxic) and take serious advantage of this to try to sell things as better for you by being low VOC. Ignore all of it. It's all basically meaningless for the purpose of determining whether it's something safe to use in your house.
VOC = Volatile Organic Component. Theoretically about vapor pressure, actually. But in practice mostly about air pollution.
In the US (at least), VOC's basically equate to chemicals that cause various forms of air-pollution through photochemical reactivity (IE exposure to sunlight). The rest are exempt (acetone, etc). VOC's includes most things that smell good, like perfume, FWIW.
Isocyanate, while dangerous for humans, is not a VOC - it is not photochemically reactive. Instead, it reacts very quickly with moisture in air (which is why most danger is from bounce back from spraying it)
This is totally orthogonal to direct human toxicity. There are very low VOC things that are very dangerous to breathe. There are very high VOC components that are relatively okay.
As a first step, never confuse whether something is a VOC with whether it is safe to breathe directly.
What VOC compliance has often done a lot of is replace chemicals that are horrible for pollution but not that directly toxic to people, with chemicals that are better for pollution but more directly toxic to people. This is sort of a deliberate tradeoff, under the assumption that air pollution (which gets to everyone) is more dangerous overall than the toxicity (which gets to those spraying it).
For example, butyl acetate (a VOC), which is what makes a bunch of fruit smell/taste sweet, has been replaced with acetone (VOC exempt) in a lot of formulations.
This ends up worse for people spraying it - acetone is much harder to protect against with PPE. Butyl acetate is not carcinogenic, acetone is "unknown", etc
But better for the environment overall.
If you want to know whether and how something is toxic to you, ignore whatever marketing material they produce, and read the MSDS.
Guygan t1_j6fkt25 wrote
Reply to comment by AppleFan1010 in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
Sorry, I made a mistake.
We have 22 million subscribers who are happy with our rules.
celaconacr t1_j6fkknz wrote
Reply to comment by South-Direct414 in Hot water tank malfunctioning by 18418871
I'm pretty sure condenser boilers are more efficient (94% for a new one). The radiators are on a separate loop not combined with the hot water system so you don't need human consumption rating.
Most modern houses in the UK use a "combi" boiler. That's a radiator loop heater and tankless hot water system in one. It heats the cold water feed direct for hot water on demand but that does mean a supply limit. Advantages are no efficiency loss through hot water storage, no space loss for the water tank, no legionnaires or similar concerns.
The other common type is a tanked system. Again the boiler does all the heating but in this case either feeding a hot water tank or the radiators. Hot water tanks are more common in older properties, those with pressure issues or those with too high demand for a direct feed.
We will probably be going back to tanks as we are slowly moving towards heat pumps from gas boilers.
AppleFan1010 OP t1_j6fkibj wrote
Reply to comment by Guygan in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
Neither will I.
Guygan t1_j6fkccm wrote
Reply to comment by AppleFan1010 in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
We are perfectly happy with our current 20 million subscribers who are happy with our rules. We won't miss you.
Remy4409 OP t1_j6fk7fq wrote
Reply to comment by HarlanCulpepper in Best way to flatten concrete walls outside of my house? by Remy4409
Yeah mostly, it's mostly personnal preference. I'm a first year home owner and I learned tons of stuff, I want to do it just to learn stuff.
AppleFan1010 OP t1_j6fk6w3 wrote
Reply to comment by Guygan in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
No thanks. Don’t want to post anything anymore here. There are other groups where people get better answers. You enjoy your group and your rules. Cheers
rolltododge t1_j6fk5m1 wrote
Reply to comment by Supreme-Bob in How do I remove a stuck bolt holding my bike's kickstand in place? by S_Orbital
also, metal gets pliable/compliant when hot so it's easier to get stuff moving.
downvotes? metal expands and gets much softer when it gets hot... and thus a hole in a piece of metal expands making it easier to remove things that are stuck..
Guygan t1_j6fk54g wrote
Reply to comment by AppleFan1010 in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
> f I have to do research before posting anything then I would have got the answer
Read the removal message CAREFULLY.
Guygan t1_j6fk27l wrote
Reply to comment by AppleFan1010 in How to use left over water based paint again? by AppleFan1010
Every subreddit has rules. We have rules. You need to read them before you make a post.
Or, you can post in our weekly thread that is pinned to the top of the subreddit.
Sir_Fluffy_Butt_McDo t1_j6fjxqk wrote
Hammer blow to stick part. Or try to tighten it a little bit, then loosen
NeroBoBero t1_j6fnm6n wrote
Reply to comment by rolliejoe in Can I drill a hole in this door, and are there open/closable hole caps I can add to both sides? by rolliejoe
It isn’t more risk. You will need to buy a drill bit that is long enough to go fully through the wall