Recent comments in /f/DIY

metz123 t1_j6f3d7o wrote

Oil is a perfectly fine countertop finish, if, as you said, you don’t chop directly on it. We have a traditional butcher block island counter top that we oil occasionally (every 6 months or so) and its held up just fine to daily use as a counter top, not as a chopping surface.

The nice thing about oil is that you can easily sand or even steam out dings and dents and just oil those areas and get a great consistent finish.

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Crimkam t1_j6f352h wrote

My grandparents did this, but ended up not doing a very good job and there was a noticeable hump about a foot higher than the rest of the grass in the backyard where they buried everything for the next 40 years.... so just make sure you've got a plan to make it look nice and don't get lazy.

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2001sleeper t1_j6f2933 wrote

That will work, but I would run a 1x2 around the walls to give a lip for the play wood to rest on. 3/4” can be used as subfloor with a joist span of 24”, so you should be fine with the weight you are planning.

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GamerGER t1_j6f20p1 wrote

I used an angle grinder with a diamond grinding disk to flatten out an old wall but the concrete parts are tough and take some time.

You could also add a layer of mineral plaster to get a new texture and even out the pattern. Or a combination of both ;)

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everybanana OP t1_j6f1yjd wrote

It drains into a condensate pump which then pumps it into the drain. I'm thinking the cloth is there to help prevent the pump from building up a bunch of stuff. I had the same idea about using plastic shortly after making this post. I 3d printed a 2mm thick plastic thing that clipped onto the bottom to raise it up slightly. So far it seems to be working fine.

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Rubix321 t1_j6f0vaz wrote

I'm betting that it's getting sitting on the drain... Looks like it has a little valley in it that should let water through from the sides, but I bet it's covering up the hole now.

If it were mine, I'd probably find something flat and plastic to prop it up a bit on either side to let the water under it better.

It's just going out into the drain, I wouldn't think it would need to be filtered at that point.

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sudo_mksandwhich t1_j6eyres wrote

The last time this happened to me it was a thermal fuse that had blown. Most likely the vent had gotten clogged and it just got too hot. A $4 part if I recall, and about 5 minutes to replace it.

Before you start throwing parts at the problem, especially heating elements, you should check for basic continuity with a multimeter.

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NoBoDySHeRo3000 OP t1_j6ewll3 wrote

It’s £3 per rubble bag, and the nearest tip I can use is over 30 mins drive away. Will be a lot of rubble over the course of the job, enough to fill a large skip probably, but will be over the next couple of years, so actually getting a skip is no good. Hoping to get rid of bits of rubble as and when I can

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XFactor-41 t1_j6ew5xa wrote

Is that a split outlet? In other words, does the switch control one half of it and the other half is on the other circuit? If so, I have your solution.

The circuit that the switch is on was designed to terminate at that spot. With the power and the switch on, find the hot wire for that circuit. Then, connect that pair to either the top or bottom of the outlet.

With the remaining two pairs, you’re going to have to make two pigtails. Take a spare piece of black/white wire accordingly and cut off about 9-10”. Strip the ends and with a wire nut, bundle the two black wires in the box together with one pigtail, and do the same with the white. Connect the other side of the pigtails to the open half of the outlet accordingly.

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