Recent comments in /f/DIY

Theelfsmother t1_j6e2ked wrote

No it will be grand if you use good size 5 screws. Only screw as far as the plasterboard don't screw the screw in all the way to the concrete. If you have 20mm of air you might use a 5 x 70 screw. A red rawl plug will hold it good and tight.

Adjust sizes for America i suppose. I don't know your system. I'm in mm

Use a 5.5 drill bit.

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adventuref0x t1_j6e2gab wrote

Ah no, there’s a cover over the sewer pipes behind the toilet that’ll make one of those difficult to put up, the fact everything is on show would drive her nuts too that’s the only reason we are getting this cabinet instead of a mirror, she wants to remove all evidence of someone living there

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adventuref0x t1_j6e1vmq wrote

I became a race mechanic because I started off by fucking around rebuilding a motorbike having never touched a spanner before.

I am all for learning and doing jobs myself but not if it’s going to lead to me getting it in the neck because I’ve done something wrong while learning honestly if I hear her say ‘why are you doing that if you don’t know what you’re doing’ once again I’m getting in my car and driving until I run out of gas.

Also there’s so much more that can go wrong with home maintenance, like I’ve just fucked the wall, that’s now however many hundreds to get someone out the year out that bit of plasterboard, install a new bit, plaster and paint and then another hundred or so to get someone to mount the fucking thing, it’s just not worth the risks

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Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j6e1hth wrote

To be honest, I’m getting tempted to just leave it all as it is, and just add in another 1/4 tee above the current 1/4 tee for the fridge and leave it all be. At the end of the day, my initial question was just “can I add a Tee on top of the Tee” and I got my answer which was a yes lol

At the end of the day, if the pipe coming out of the wall snaps, there doesn’t seem be anyway to solve the issue other than taking that pipe off. Which can then cause the pipe in the wall to snap off and cause a bigger headache. Worse, it’s possible that when I try to take off the valve, the piping in the wall is galvanized pipe and that snaps off in the wall. I don’t really have the thousands of dollars it would cost to hire a plumber to fix that issue. Given how I don’t know if the pipe in the wall is an old rusted and corroded galvanized pipe that could snap in an instant when I try to remove the old valve, I feel as though this is just to risky for me.

I don’t know. What do you think? Do you think it’s really a small risk? I’m just scared the pipe behind the wall might be an old and corroded galvanized pipe that can burst and cause me issues. Even if the pipe coming out of the wall bursts, I don’t know if using that shark bite is the best idea since it’s “technically“ not made for brass but PVC. And I assume I’d have to remove the pipe to rethread it. So this whole job just seems very risky and I just don’t know if it’s worth. If something breaks, it doesn’t seem like I could permanently fix it without calling in a plumber and spending $1000+. I’m from NY so it’s really expensive here.

You have any thoughts? You think it’s low risk and I could do it? If something breaks, you have any other suggestions in case the shark bite fitting doesn’t work on the brass?

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Pendegen t1_j6e1c09 wrote

Could’ve been worse. Drilling into bathroom walls and even rooms adjacent to bathroom walls usually ends up in a pressured line being pierced when there’s a noob around. Post on Airtasker. It’s a 15min job $50 at a stretch.

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radalicious123 t1_j6e0x05 wrote

At this point it might not be too much extra trouble to cut out the damaged drywall and fasten in some wood blocking to screw the cabinet to (how deep is the air gap?) Then fix the drywall. Def a bit of work but once you're on the hook for a drywall repair anyway...

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