Recent comments in /f/DIY

AmbitiousHedgehog313 t1_j6dzq2o wrote

Reply to I’ve fucked up. What am I supposed to do. by [deleted]

Dude, your attitude is awful.

I don't understand why someone would not want to be able to maintain their home. It's a basic life skill. This concept that we have to get someone in to do everything for us drives me nuts.

These days, there is so much help available, you have no excuse.

Can you post a pic of your wall anchors, and of the thing you are trying to hang?

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Theelfsmother t1_j6dzbbu wrote

Reply to comment by adventuref0x in I’ve fucked up. What am I supposed to do. by [deleted]

You sound like she needs a new man in her life.

Anyway, you should have used rawl plugs in the concrete with screws long enough to go into the concrete.

You can still do this, the cabinet will hide the hole in the wall. If so much plaster in gone that you can't hang it used some wood to bridge the gap and screw that to the wall, filling the hole.

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Apprehensive-Egg374 OP t1_j6dytf8 wrote

Reply to comment by its8up in How can I add a second 1/4 inch water line to under my kitchen sink? by Apprehensive-Egg374

To be honest, I’m getting tempted to just leave it all as it is, and just add in another 1/4 tee above the current 1/4 tee for the fridge and leave it all be. At the end of the day, my initial question was just “can I add a Tee on top of the Tee” and I got my answer which was a yes lol

At the end of the day, if the pipe coming out of the wall snaps, there doesn’t seem be anyway to solve the issue other than taking that pipe off. Which can then cause the pipe in the wall to snap off and cause a bigger headache. Worse, it’s possible that when I try to take off the valve, the piping in the wall is galvanized pipe and that snaps off in the wall. I don’t really have the thousands of dollars it would cost to hire a plumber to fix that issue. Given how I don’t know if the pipe in the wall is an old rusted and corroded galvanized pipe that could snap in an instant when I try to remove the old valve, I feel as though this is just to risky for me.

I don’t know. What do you think?

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ElBrad t1_j6dwx0w wrote

Reply to comment by Daniepi3 in Stain and Varnish using Mohair Roller on timber causing streaks? by Daniepi3

Wood conditioner should be put down before stain, to help even out the stain's penetration.

If it were me, I'd sand off the progress you've made so far and reapply. If you don't care about the finish, then don't bother, but it's something that would bother me if it were my own project.

I'd start with an 80 grit, bring it down to bare wood, then work my way up to at least a 220 if it's something my skin would be touching on the regular. Then, stain it the colour you want with a regular stain, finish it off with a spar varnish (if you're going to have any liquids on the desk, like your morning coffee), to prevent water damage in the future.

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