Is it a top load. If that is really the problem the suspension rods "shock absorbers" are easy to replace, could even just be a failed rod support/plastic bushing.

Last one I did was able to replace them just lifting/tilting the top up. Others are a little more involved but still easy enough for most.

Google repairclinic and search for your model. They have tons of repair/trouble shooting videos. Their shipping is slow. You could always take the parts number and find them on Amazon for quicker shipping.

Yeah I got a drill. Well I was going to get an L bracket and drill through the wood. Then put the bolt through the hole and put a nut at the end. This might just be overkill and too much work so Ill probably just screw the L bracket to the wood and be done w/ it

so, where are you attaching the bolts and nuts? and how? got a drill?

That’s a great idea, thank you! I’ll try that tomorrow

No it’s not messy at all, I just thought it would be! I’m using sponge applicator things and then buffing with a cloth to remove excess so I think that part’s all good :) Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!

I currently store latex house paint in plastic instant coffee jars. Some are 5 years old and still OK.

Just like scraping off flaking old paint when going to repaint something like a window or fence. Scrape, remove loose pieces, patch, prime and paint. (At least what I would do but if an actual drywall expert weighs in go with their advice.)

I have cracks in my plaster ceiling but they can't be pushed back in like that. It's from foundation settling as the wife over the last 8 years has been doing yardwork changing the water penetration to the ground.

Good luck OP.

Edit: watched that YouTube link below. If that works that might be easier and less mess.

You're right but they're 4 inches deep. The slab will be 4 inches deep as well. But I imagine the drain (once I find it) will be couple inches and sit on top so to make it flush ill have to drop the expansion down or cut it.

Yes, there's an existing drain I'm connecting to at a T

On real old antique lights, the wires will be cloth wrapped. Here is the way to tell "hot" vs. "return". Rewire the lamp and keep note of what wire you connect. The honest answer is to rewire the lamp for safety reasons.

I have used plastic canisters with screw on lids before. I always transfer my paint from the cans into these because they are easier for me to use, store and are super handy. They can be shaken before opening instead of stirring. My paint don’t last long but it stores well for a couple of months. Before I transfer any paint out of them I wrap the threads of the container with blue paint tape and then pour out what I need and take the tape off and it leaves a clean edge. As long as you keep a clean thread on both the container and lid it will seal well. I get mine at Dollar Tree.

Im confused. I thought expansion joints were only 3/4" wide, so im unsure how you want to cut it down. Also, is that the drain running along the dirt edge?

As long as you have basic tools and a modicum of mechanical aptitude, you can do it.

That’s all good info thank you. In all honestly, most of it will be the old mortar which is basically sand, and the old bricks I will try and use for actual building projects.

Vertical streaks i see are the wood grain absorbing at diff speeds. You just need a few coats of varnish to even it out. Then sand smooth and do another varnish coat or two then polish.

I'm pouring a triangle pad. Pretty small. Right triangle with the two adjacent sides about 6 feet and 8 feet. One side is against the slab foundation of the house and another side is an existing concrete pool deck. I've drilled holes for rebar into the existing pool deck to attach the pads. I didn't touch the house foundation. Cushion sand base is down.

I need to add a drain along one side where the existing pool deck is meaning I need both an expansion joint and drain. The pad will be 4 inches.

Do I trim the expansion joint down a couple inches to fit the channel drain?
Photo link: https://picallow.com/pool-deck/

Why not just put them out front with “free” so that someone who needs bricks for a project can take them for you and all you have to do is leave them there?

A few reasons not to bury construction:

-it leaks into your ground water

-if you ever want to use that area of the yard for something else then you have to dig it up

-planting a garden or getting things to grow in that area will be difficult, including anything that roots.

-you could use that rubble to build something wildlife and nature will love

-future you won’t remember exactly where you buried it to dig it all up

-even if you don’t dig it up a future homeowner will have a massive pain of a project

https://dontdrinkthewater.silvrback.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-burying-rubble-in-your-backyard

This. Unless you are making out with your battery, 12v is incredibly safe unless you arc come metal across the contacts. Doing a more powerful PV system right these days means stepping up to 48V and even that is pretty safe to handle with bare dry (not wet) hands. Maybe thin skinned baby hands will feel it? Caloused man hands don’t give 2 shits.

My solar PV array is 48v. A lot of the electric forklifts I work on are 48. It’s fine. Electrical Code changes at 60V and then you need to take it more seriously.

And if you don’t feel like fucking around spot welding a battery pack you can buy off the shelf LFP batteries that are a drop in replacement for lead acid including the BMS baked right into a plastic shell. They even look like a lead battery but are 1/3 the weight. Motorcycle versions even have a low battery protection system and will shut off at 20% life left when the bike is parked. Press a button on the battery and it wakes right up again.

Thank you! I ended up doing this with some vice grips and it worked!!!

Have you tried PTFE 3-in-1?

[PTFE](http://www.3-IN-ONE.com/ - 120032 Multi-Purpose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

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Definitely needs weight, maybe one of those sand/water filled umbrella stands would work if you can find a smaller one.

Just wipe off the extra that's left. If there is a lot on top just spread it around. If it is messy and sticky, you need to wipe off more. You should not be able to actually feel the oil when you are finished.

Thank you!

You might want to use a hairdryer to warm the wood and open the pores up more. That can help even things out where you might have tighter grain that isn't absorbing oil as much as other spots.

If it's electric, it Could be that you've lost one leg of 120v.
Electric dryers are 240 volts for the heating element, but the tumbler motor and electronic control is 120 volt. Could be a bad breaker, or loose connection.
My father in laws mom had this issue when a contractor accidently cut the wire which powered the dryer outlet. But they only partially cut it through one of the hot wires.
So she assumed the dryer went bad, bought a new one and had it installed only to have the same problem.
I'm an electrician so I went over and found the problem.