It's a Reddit(/internet?) abbreviation for "edit to add"

In the US they call that 'clean fill'. Doesn't rot or attract insects. Perfectly safe to bury.

Needle nose vice grips will get it out. Alternative is selecting a smaller drill bit and drilling into screw and once it grabs, reverse the drill. This screw is fairly small, so this process won't be as easy.

I’m an electrician, so I’m happy to have a go at doing bits. But this is my first go at doing any proper building work. I’ll be digging out footings at some point, so I’ll have plenty of soil to cover the rubble piles

Do you have a picture? I don’t quite understand the extent of damage.

In which case everything you're trying sounds right. It'll be interesting to see what has happened to it. Time to look for the least destructive way to get past it.

Lol. Are you sure you aren't a builder?

You have the exact right thought process for it.

Burying bricks won't bother the ground one bit. Here is the US there is a market for used bricks. People cut them in half for wall coverings. Or make paths outdoors.

Roughly 50v is required to overcome the resistance of dry skin. Unless you're putting 12v electrical contacts directly across your heart, inside your chest, you'll be fine. Think of current as a volume of water, and voltage as a pump that pushes it though pipes.

So first, the white stuff is just the visible clear coat damage.
That's what aluminum oxide + polyurethane looks like when you abrade it. You need to get rid of it to see what is really going on.

Take some denatured alcohol and paper bag (or no-scratch sponge), and remove it by carefully rubbing. You can also use a white woven pad.

Most of the damage seems like it will look like your 3rd picture.

Those are mostly compression streaks (or look like it from this distance - they don't have a visible ragged edge from this distance), which is good because it means you didn't gouge the floor, you just dented it, at least there.

Those will steam out for the most part - use a wet (but not dripping) cloth and an iron on high heat, and you should be able to decompress them. Your goal is to get the wood fibers to uncrush. That happens through steam. It does not take a lot. Note that for those who don't have properly-finished floors (which, if an installer did the finishing, happens sometimes. It's very rare with factory finished boards), you have to be careful not to delaminate

Once you've steamed out all the dents and removed any visible clearcoat damage, i'd need a picture of what's left - where are there real scratches vs dents vs whatever.

Note that you can't repair the clearcoat without some amount of refinishing.

I do a lot of wood finishing. Factory floors are done with multiple coats of 2k urethane. Even home floors are at least 2 coats when done by good finishers.

You aren't going to be able to perfectly reproduce that. To try to get somewhere, it needs to be level first, since it will otherwise catch your eye (hence steaming out dents, etc).

Once that is done, you can try repairing the spots with 1 component floor urethanes, but it will be very hard to feather the edges properly so that it's not noticeable - you would need a very good gloss degree match for starters (If i was trying to repair something serious, i would use my gloss meter to see what the sheen is), and then good sanding skills with high grits.

Do not mess around with 2 component (resin + hardener) urethanes (IE Bona Traffic HD, etc) yourself without proper PPE . Stick to 1k. The 2k hardeners are just about all isocyanate based, which is odorless except at concentrations that are dangerous for you. This makes it hard to tell if the vapor cartridge in your respirator (which is 100% a must) is working because you can't use smell to tell if it's working until it's way too late. It can also be absorbed dermally so you must wear a suit + gloves. It is otherwise easy to protect against - it is not going to get through normal nitrile gloves, etc. This is why you see most flooring installers and spray foam contractors in breaking-bad style chem suits these days if they have any sanity ;)

On the plus side, the hardener reacts very fast with moisture in the air, so if you wear proper PPE and rolled it with a paint roller, it would be 100% fine. Isocyanate free formulations are starting to come into vogue, but not in floor finishes yet.

Also note that most "hard wax" oils people now seem to want to put on floors are also hardened with isocyanate - it is perfectly VOC compliant, even if it's dangerous to people (since VOC's are about air pollution and not human toxicity). They play a lot of marketing games to try to act as if the stuff is super-safe, but you also need PPE here too. All of these (1k urethane, 2k urethane, hardwax oil, etc) are perfectly safe once cured, which is quite fast.

Outside of 1k urethanes, clear waxes are going to be your best bet for something a DIY'er can do beyond refinishing.

Just curious as to what ETA stands for in this scenario. I only know it as "Estimated Time of Arrival".

Welp. Yeah there's something we don't understand going on here, but I think if I were you I'd grab my drill.

Try with pliers if that fails file it flat drill center with small drill bit go up a size then retap the hole go up to 10-32 if you have to

What the fuck did i just watch, be easier and cheaper just to pull the plaster down, tack a new sheet of plaster board on and plaster over.

It depends on the binder.

Glass containers are preferred.

Storage them in a cold dark place (not in the freezer though)

Haha, yeah it looks like it's coming down to that

Thanks - yep the screw is still stuck when I tried this, I even bended the drain cover a bit trying to put upward pressure on the stuck screw lol

Thanks, really appreciate the advice. I know from the other parts of the kitchen it will look different in 6 hours when it’s properly dry anyway so will see and take it from there! It’s a lot more obvious when it’s wet still

Thanks, I tried that and it was still stuck, I ended up bending the drain cover a bit trying to pull the side with the screw stuck in upwards!

Thanks, yep both screws are meant to unscrew fully as I've unscrewed it before. I can lift one half of the drain cover but the part with the screw in is stuck still.

I also use mason jars or even well washed large pickle jars, that sort of thing. Because I do a lot of canning and also use the mason jars for wedding decorations and party events I have a ton of them. We use them for drinking glasses, vases, nuts and bolts and screws etc. They come in any number of sizes and at the dollar store you can buy good quality, name brand plastic lids that are made to fit them. Then you can use them for all sorts of food storage in your pantry. In the workshop I have the 4 ounce sizes filled with labelled paint, so that if I need to touch up, I can easily just open and stir the little jars rather than opening the big can. Easy peasy.

If there is one thing that really does have multiple uses its reusable glass mason jars. Every household could probably find a myriad of uses for them, and bonus - reusable, food safe, easy to sterilize.

Oil absorption is affected bay grain direction. End grain and oblique (raising) grain absorves more oil than flat oriented grain.

So if you want it to look a more even sheen on it, try applying more oil, but it nonetheless it might stay like that.

Butcher blocks are not always end grain, and judging by the size of the block, an end grain board would not be a good idea because it would be prone to breaking if hit or dropped. And if used as a countertop wood movement (seasonal expansion and contraction due to water absorption) would be a PITA.

Anyways, i have to say using oil as a countertop finish was maybe not a good choice. It is easier and faster to apply, but it would've been better to use epoxy or polyurethane, as it is harder and more durable. Now that you used oil, if you apply any of those on it, it might not adhere to wood.

If you cannot, for instance flip the board and apply normal PU barnish or epoxy, just be cautious to always use a chopping board on top of the countertop (which seems like what you were trying to avoid)

Any time I've had streaks while staining it was from putting too much on at a time, trying to hurry and get it done. Try using a foam roller with a brush or rag.

That’s super helpful, thank you. Happy to keep applying. I did a bit more work for the denibbing pad as I think maybe some of the bits weren’t as smooth as they could be but don’t think it’s made much difference to be honest.

Apologies for incorrect terminology - I didn’t install it, so I’m guessing really!

I just want to add my voice to the idea that you've got drain cover with a captive screw. It doesn't come out of the drain cover, but you've unscrewed it. Use a flathead screwdriver and lever the drain cover up and see if it just pops out.