Single use or thinner plastic would work short term but if you are looking for something long term I would go with glass. Mason jars or even cleaned out food jars (like for pasta sauce) work perfectly.

Also, store the jars in a spot where there is as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Everyone goes for the basement, but even subtle seasonal temperature changes can affect the lifespan of stored paint.

I work in a paint store, and this is what I usually advise customers to do.

I am also a non-professional wood botherer and this take is mostly right. The “mostly” part is that edge grain butcher block Is A Thing, at least from the perspective of companies trying to sell countertops. Home Depot sells long grain stave countertop as “butcher block” with no mention of grain anywhere. Armani Woodworking (no relation) offers edge grain butcher block countertops with end grain offered as a premium option, though it’s hard to read their writeup and view the two options as the same product. John Boos has both edge and end grain countertops, but everything they sell as a “butcher block” has end grain top (and this is as it should be.).

Marketeering appropriation of the term “butcher’s block” aside, though, these are still pretty good countertops and your wood care advice to OP is spot on.

I use a mason jar or tin with locking lid.

Single use Plastic bottles break down over time and will eventually leak, especially if previously exposed to something acidic like juice.

If you don’t want paint on your floor, use a mason jar or other durable things. Ideally paint wouldn’t be exposed to light when stored, which you mentioned, but dark containers are going to be better, too. It’s why paint cans are dark.

I assume you are asking about this because you saw something like the touch up cup.

You might be able to get away with a container that truly seals with a lid that tightly closes, but any air will dry out the paint so make sure it locks tight.

I used to be a residential electrician. If this happens and you are unable to remove the screw, buy a 6/32's speed tap and tap a second hole in the remaining metal portion of the mounting tab. Shift the lighting bracket slightly, use new hole and new screw, and you are good to go.

Try prying the cover upwards a little bit. It’s possible that the screw is very short and built into the cover, so it’ll never come out.

Water based paints should be okay, but thicker plastic would be better. I wouldn’t store oil based paints in plastic.

I used glass pasta sauce jars and that works well for me.

imagine being so confident about something you know nothing about. Incredible

Have had some success with color matched epoxy filler.

You've got a lot more patience than I. Drill baby drill.

The only time this is likely to happen is if the screw has reached the end of thread - i.e. it might already be out. Are you sure it's not a captive screw and stays in the drain cover? I assume you're comparing it to the other ones in the cover?

So, let me preface this with the, "I'm not a professional," caveat.

That doesn't look like butcherblock. Butcherblock is generally end grain oriented. This is made more like a hardwood floor, with the grain running parallel to the surface.

In a situation like that it's much more difficult for oil to penetrate the wood, and it doesn't look like you have entire pieces where adsorption is low, just sections of many pieces where it's slow.

This could be due to any number of things, but if they've been hard used some of the pores could have been crushed and are slower to adsorb fluids as a result (I used to work in a winery, and doing this intentionally was one of the ways you repaired leaking barrels). It can also easily be simply because of variations on the seasonality of wood (wood cut this way can wind up cutting within a single season's growth, and wood density varies a lot between seasons depending on water availability, temperature, wind, etc, which in turn will mean differences on how easy it is for oil to penetrate).

This doesn't look at all like a problem to me, just something that may take a bit more time and applications than you initially intended.

Apply it, and periodically give it a reapplication. Maybe every few months for 3 or 4 cycles after the initial oilings.

Someone who is a professional in this should weight in and give their opinion, but that's my take from a number of years of non-professionally working with wood.

Brackets will work, with screws. But if you buy a piece of lumber, the store usually will cut it for you if you need. Also, if you have a house, you need basic tools. Scope out yard sales, auctions, estate sales or thrift stores if the budget is tight. My fave is auctions: I've gotten boxfuls of power tools and workbench stuff, sometimes for just a couple of bucks.

Thanks so much for your reply - I added some photos here https://www.reddit.com/user/Laurenhynde82/comments/10o6ofd/worktop_issue/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Other parts of the worktop were also worn (some more so) before I started and didn’t have this issue so I’m worried I cocked up either cleaning or sanding or something! Will try the kitchen towel idea, thanks for that :)

ETA: they were newly installed when we moved in and all nicely consistent - it was definitely overdue so it may be that we’ve just left it too long and the whole section needs refinishing. It’s just weird that I didn’t have the same issue on the other counters which had similar patches due to higher traffic

Thanks for your insight! Might just go down the brush route. Any recommendations for a 1.9metre bit of timber (if size matters lol)?

The vertical strips are definitely the grain of the wood. The grit I used was too harsh for the timber (180). I didn't have any other sandpaper on hand at the time and I didn't care about the finish too much, I just wanted to ensure the colour was the one I wanted. But yeah I'm not sure if sanding caused the horizontal roller lines (I hope not), especially since the RHS was the second coat of stain (applied ~24h+ later). I used 240 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the first coat before applying the second. Would a wood conditioner make a difference for the second coat of stain?

You have any photos?

If they're used butcherblocks it may simply be that some areas have retained oil from previous oilings and are at capacity. Or those specific pieces are of a much more dense grain.

It it were boards I'd suggest that maybe some areas have sap in them (or something similar), but for butcherblock that's already been used that's not going to be the case.

If you're really worried soak a paper towel in the oil you're using and lay it over the area in question (flat, don't ball it up). This will give an extended period of contact for oil to soak in.

I have cutting boards where some areas drink oil like an alcoholic denied booze for two weeks, and other areas directly adjacent let it run off like water from a duck's back, all due to grain structure and orientation.

Vampliers are what you want.

They do make extractors that can deal with missing heads of screws. Look at socket extractors. You just need one sized for the screw shaft. They are mainly meant to remove damaged bolts, but work fine for this type of thing.

Not worth getting just for this, since the vampliers will get it out with no issue. But something to keep in mind for the futre.

First thing I tried is walnut. Rubbing walnut on the scratches often work. Cause of the oils in it it helps also with water proofing the scratches

Ohms law says they can't. Your skin is about 100,000 ohms. 12.8 / 100,000 = 0.000128 or 0.128 mA.

>Antique light

Safe bet is to just rewire with new cables, you can get fake antique cable.

Engineer tools are amazing and absolutely worth the money.

https://youtu.be/P4D0sESi5So

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Do you mean emulsion? If so, plastic bottles will be fine. If it's gloss then i'd say no.

stop perpetuating this dumb phrase without understanding it

you would have to have 2 metal stakes piercing your chest with battery leads hooked up to them to deliver the current where it would stop your heart. ugh

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