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What part is loose or unstable?

The connection between the pole and the work surface? The sections of the pole? The pole to the foot? Or foot to the floor?

The wood you linked to isn't particularly heavy. A heavy base would help with stability, so I'd try to find a heavy metal foot to weigh it down. Similar to those freestanding floor lamps that have a heavy round base and the pole screws into it.

Is the faucet connected by a flexible pipe? Could it have been crushed or bent during the work?

Self promotion

left hand drill bit should do it...

Whoops!

Sure it's a good build, but is this really a DIY? The images are screenshots from a video that showcases their lithium battery products and business. OP's name is obviously their business, which you can look up with a quick search.

I second vampliers or their twin Engineer brand that has way more variants and other tools (I think they are the same company). Found them looking to find a cheaper vamplier that doesn't exist 😀. I use my Engineer PZ-59 like linesman pliers and PZ-58 small linesman looking, more than any other ...well maybe I'm using the even smaller ESD electrical ones just as much lately. I also found a pair of Knipex that are similar that work beautifully no. 82 01 200 they grab excellently tip or side and have a fine adjustment slip joint build that locks vertically in ~4mm increments of total jaw open width when closed....similar to a water pump / channel lock jaw position adjustment but forward and not in grooves but adjusting the hinge point wider or narrower. Look em up OP, I love mine. Otherwise theres ALWAYS the old standby that eats fasteners for lunch but gets the job done...ol trusty vise grips (heck I made my first vamplier style out of an old vise grip using a thin diamond ignition file and many parallel cuts like teeth but offset opposing teeth. It still works great too. GL with your screw and hope I gave you some helpful leads.

Buy a hand saw.

Just change out the shallow ceiling box. It will take less time then anything else.

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I can't say I've ever used a roller for finishes, but I'd probably hazard a guess to say it's not the best way.

Personally, I've used a lint-free cloth or foam brush for applying a polyurethane finish, and regular brushes for stain.

Those vertical strips look to be the actual grain of the wood though. What grit did you finish on when you sanded? If sanding isn't the cause, then what about applying a wood conditioner first?

Just fyi, when splicing Romex with wire nuts, you're supposed to twist it until the insulated part of the wire pair starts to twist as well. That neutral wire doesn't look like it got twisted enough

Sorry but I disagree about the water from personal experience painting with a dry brush versus one after I washed it. Especially on ceilings, you get diluted paint running out of the ferrule and it makes a mess. When it's wet, it thins the paint, lowering the viscosity. I can use a dry brush all day and not get paint to the ferrule. Use a wet one for an hour or two, and it does. And it's worse with epoxies and solvent based paints. You can see for yourself with a little experiment. Take two similar brushes and wet one of them. Put a 1/2" of paint in a cut pot. Set the brushes in the cut pot and walk away for an hour. When you come back, you'll see the wet bristles have paint bleeding up the bristles well above the line it was submerged to, while the dry one won't.

Looking around on Google, it's a mix of some saying you should, and others saying don't do it. It depends on which source you look at. Neither Sherwin Williams nor Purdy recommend it, but I see people on quora and other places saying you should. So I'm gonna go with the guys who make the brushes instead of of randoms on the internet. Nothing against you if it works for you, but I just imagine a person who's not a pro painter making more of a mess with a wet brush. And all the sources that do recommend it say it is too help with cleanup. Other sources say it's bad because it dilutes the paint. So I wouldn't recommend to the average home owner.

No

ViseGrips

I want to mention the temperature issue since no one else has yet.

What color is the container? How hot does metal sitting in the sun get where you are? I'm in the Seattle area and two summers ago, we had some 100+ degree days which is really rare around here. I had the fortune of temporarily storing some electronics outdoors for a bit in an area that received direct sunlight for the second half of the day. Black computer cases. On our 104 degree day, I noticed the plastic on front of some of the cases had warped. On our 108 degree day, I measured the temperature on the surface of the cases at 170 degrees. So while that didn't warp the plastic, the cases with metal directly behind the plastic did warp the plastic.

So, just be very aware of the potential temperatures and store your electronic accordingly. Possibly a good few coats of paint designed to reflect heat (the kind used on the tops of school buses) would be a good idea.

You don't seem to understand what current (or atrial fibrillation, but that's another topic) or current capacity is.

Current is pushed through a resistance by a voltage, at the most basic level. The resistance of unbroken dry human skin is 100 kohms. This does vary, but 100 k is a decent ballpark when working out safety. I've just measured the resistance across my body with two probes to get 1.2 mega-ohms, but we'll use 100 k.

Using the very simple equation I = V/R we get:

I = 12/100000 = 0.00012 A = 0.12 mA. = 120 uA

So no, they are not capable of lethal current (and "it's the current not the volts" is only true for AC or where the voltage changes rapidly, it gets far more complicated than that, to the point where you can put five amps through someone without harm). Your "capable of lethal current" is four orders of magnitude out. That's somewhat like saying a pencil is the same size as the moon.

A "100Ah" rating tells you the duration for which a current can be maintained, it is a measure of capacity, not capability. In our case, it could maintain that 120 microamps across your arms for a few years. You'd probably get very bored. A capacity rating doesn't tell you anything about how much current you can pull at any one time.

Voltage is less important than amperage. 20mA can paralyze your lungs and cause defib. 2A will stop your heart. These are 100Ah cells, they are capable of putting off lethal current.

Edit: Rather than respond to so many people individually, I'll do so with an edit.

First, thanks for many well thought out responses. My response was intentionally kept short because I didn't want to go as in depth as some of you did, I was just laying down for bed when I saw the comment and felt it was important enough to make a response.

Next, a lot of different scenarios were used in the responses: AC/DC, the assumption of dry sky, and the assumption that everything was done right during assembly. I didn't make assumptions, only pointed out that 12V can be lethal. Likely? No. Possible? Yes. So safety first, and I applaud the OP for pointed that out.

Lastly, to those responses that were personal attacks: You don't know me and you don't know what I've been through. I have worked in electrical fields all my life from an Avionics Electrician, oil equipment calibration, to semiconductors. Yes, I know Ohms Law. Yes, I know what Amp Hours are. Again, I kept my response brief because I think it's safer to remind people that low voltage can still be dangerous in the wrong situations.

And I feel it's better to make a blanket statement like "voltage is less important than amperage" rather that "12V is safe".

So, I'm sorry for not being more detailed in my response. But ya'll are quite hurtful, so I guess I'll go back to lurking.

Thanks for your suggestion!

Get a multi-meter to know which is which...

If it was me I’d grab a piece of scrap 2x6 from the garage and screw down the plate to it. Then I could start with it oversized and shorten it as needed, and maybe replace it with something nicer of a similar size once I know it’ll work.

Seems like it’ll always be a bit wobbly given it’s height.

While you're technically (the best kind of) right on the terminal connection order, 12V is far too low to be much of an electrocution risk to unbroken skin.

Nice neat job, well documented and waaaaay cleaner than the 10S 9P/18P ebike battery I'm making.

Neutral will have a divot/extra bump or something. Hot should be entirely uniform

If it's dry when painting, the paint will slowly get sucked up the ferrule. You're supposed to wet the brush with water before painting so the water is inside the ferrule already to keep paint from going up there instead.

The spinner is great for rollers, horrible on brushes, especially anything of quality, it is too hard on the bristles. The hand rolling technique is sufficient.