Are you referring to the little semi-dome mesh filters that sit between your water lines and intake ports on your washing machine?

Sounds like sediment issues with your well.

Any idea how deep the pump sits and how deep the well is- that's to ask how far from the top and the bottom of the actual water the pump sits? I spent a few years dealing with about every well issues one could have, so your situation pulls hard lol

Edit: where geographically are you situated? Do you have a dry season that impacts local aquifers and tables? If those are the filters you're referring to, what are you seeing when placing them? Get any silt after filling a tub?

It's late and my wife's and my 12th anniversary, so I'm going to get to bed l, but I'll check back tomorrow. Enjoy your night!

Yes. Somewhere upstream, the neutral is crossed and is picking up voltage.

Is that what's causing my issue? And work back towards the main from the point where it says open neutral?

Those are good pulling spark plug wires also.

new well can often stir up sediment and that can get stuck in aerators and sometimes in valves. I'd pull valve out and check to see if any debris stuck in it...flush it out.

the hotwater heater should have a faucet at bottom. Hook a hose up to that and run it into a drain or outside. Open and leave open for 3-5 min

Work your way backwards through that circuit to find where the issue with the neutral is.

So I pulled out our map for the electric that we made. https://imgur.com/a/51ir7wO. I'm working on 28. I'm guessing that open neutral is what the plug tester read when we went around testing the outlets. I have a bad feeling lol.

Yeah, I’m already seeing signs of rusting from past rain. Thanks for the suggestions!

Screw removal pliers on Amazon

If the screw doesn’t go above the box then just bend the ear down and get some pliers on the remaining piece.

The issue is the neutral at the switch showing voltage. That shouldn’t be happening. What else is on that circuit?

Ok separated the neutrals at the box. In the off position the line black wire reads 120, the load (to the light) reads zero and the line neutral reads 120 and the load neutral reads zero. So at this point everything is zero at the lamp.

With the switch in the on position, all black wires read 120. The line (from the source) neutral reads 120 and the load neutral reads zero. So at the lamp with the switch on the neutral is zero and the hot is 120.

This is with the lamp removed and the neutral wires untwisted but the grounds and hot at the switch hooked up.

Oh wow then my tarp idea is definitely not a good idea. That would make it worse in fact.

You'll definitely need ventilation with those temps. I'm no expert on vents, sorry.

On the roof though, someone else mentioned about automotive caulk and that's a great idea as it functions metal to metal. Most roofing caulk doesn't bond well like that. So that's a good suggestion. You preferably do want to cover the roof so that water does not sit in the gullies as that will be a problem down the line. Marine ply will work but in that heat I'd seal it with a heat resistant roof covering, and if you are DIY handy I'd pitch it to one side to create a run off. But be careful that you don't inadvertently drain water down the outside as that will again cause you problems later on so overhanging any roof would be preferable.

Edit: using a heat resistant roof felt would negate the need for marine ply. That's 4 times more expensive than traditional ply.

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Vice grips and you need some anyway if you don't already own them.

Today was angle grinding off the existing roofing asphalt. That stuff is a mess, but fortunately got it all off.

I picked up a 12” x 12” gable louver to put in the rear side of the container (where it can catch a draft). The one I picked up has a mesh grate in the rear of it, but I’m going to find a way to add foam or something to filter the air intake. (Tape an air filter around it?)

I also picked up a replacement 12” whirlybird because the previous one wasn’t installed correctly (and the whole assembly was busted, including the bearings). Get to take that on tomorrow!

Also picked up some tek roofing screws, and silicon roofing sealant. (Tho another comment suggested automotive sealant?)

Thanks for the help!

How are you measuring voltage on the neutral? One prong on the neutral, the other on the ground? Or are you using a voltage sensor?

Thank you. So do you have 120 from the source (left side) between the black and ground in the swich box - maybe dm me

Thanks I'll try that. No aerators at all, but I think it's all a come and go. We've already had to fix the washer several times with the rinse timer and purchasing filter screens. Hoping this passes soon! Thanks for the help!

Or a screw extractor.

I was thinking the same. But when I pulled the old drain out, it was literally just a corroded drain, and no lever at all. Just a crap ton of hair and blockage.

So replacing the pump (I have a well) can cause a temporary increase in sediment. Do you have aerators on your tub tap? Unscrew it and check for a clog.

To drain your heater- kill the power at your breaker for both the well pump and water heater, then run the hot water until it's empty / cold. On the heater, at the bottom, will be a 3/4" threaded tap for a garden hose. Connect one and put the other end in a drain. Let.ot empty, turn the pump on to refill the heater, and empty again. Do that until it's clear. With aerator on the tub clear, flip power back on.

Replacing a pump causes a change down in your well, which can stir up sediment. Small amounts build up quickly. Odds are it'll be shiny (micah) or red (clay/iron). Report back down the road when you try it out

I’ve never used a rivet gun before 😅. Sounds fun, but more work than roofing metal-to-metal screws?

What would be the benefit? (Other than aesthetics)

Is that something with my wiring or something hidden I can't see? Both my neutral wires on load and line are twisted together and capped. I'm using new Romex 14/2. House was built in the 70s.

Does the automotive caulk hold up more than roofing caulk?