It can be damp, especially for just doing samples. You want it dry when painting as dampness in it while using it for a while will start drawing paint up to the ferrule, making it hard to get clean. The easiest way to dry it is to spin it by rolling the handle back and forth quickly between your hands. They also make a spinner you can buy that does the same thing.

Disconnect it, make sure the black and white wires aren’t even twisted, and separate them opposite each other in the box and retest.

Okay, The missing ground screw doesn't cause 120 in your common.

Hey. I just want to clarify- are you saying you replaced the drain grate/insert in your bathtub, and now the water pressure from the tap is weak?

On its face, drainage and water feed shouldn't impact each other outside of a closed system (which a tap to tub to drain is not).

Is it both the hot and cold that are now weak? City or well water? Have you flushed your water heater in the last year? Let's see if we can get this figured out.

Light is hanging down and connected. I initially tested it before I hung it

Are they sort of a clear yellowish colour? If so they have a slightly different texture. One will be smooth and the other ridged.

That's how it's hooked up. Except I have no ground screw in the light. It's a plastic new work box and a plastic fixture with a hot and neutral screw with no ground.

Are you testing it with the light still up, or with it down and the two wires completely separated?

Ground wire is not the problem. Switch should only control the Hot wire.
1)Do you have 120v at the line side of your switch?
2)Do you have 120v on the load side of the switch when it's on? 3)Do you have continuity of the hot conductor from switch to your fixture? 4)Are you sure your fixture works? 5) are all your connections secure and properly done?

And also use that to test for shorts to any exposed metal on the lamp...

There should not be 120 on the white and black. The romex wire going thru the switch box is black, white & ground. White to white. Black split by switch. Ground to ground. In your light box, Ground wire to the light fixture ground. Black wire to darker brass screw and white to other lighter brass screw.

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Though with the light switch off I still get a live wire warning with my non contact tool at the light which I thought was weird.

My multimeter. Klein m300 I think

If it's not dripping wet, you're fine. Wash it out, hit it with a paper towel, and you're fine.

I flick a wet brush into a towel so any liquid goes, then rub the brush with the towel while bending the bristles. Also I like a damp brush, so I wet it before starting to paint.

A mini roller is my preferred tool for sample testing. A brush messes up the texture.

What are you using as your reference to find the 120v?

I’d use rivets , smooth on both sides

You should get some penetrating oil. PB B'laster is one, Kroil is another brand. Spray that on the threads and leave it for an hour or so. They will work their way into the threads by capillary attraction and lubricate the stuck parts.

It's probably not where you want to learn to weld. Metal, screws and caulk will work just fine. I would use a seam sealer caulk for automotive use.

1. bingo.

2. Spray foam great idea

3. Don't have a way to cut wood. Can I just use brackets with nuts and bolts?

Buy a $5 meter from harbour freight and do a continuity test like they've already told you

For the floor, you need to first figure out where the water is coming from. Please tell me this isn't built right on the ground with no structure underneath. Regardless, rotting wood isn't going to heal itself so you might need to start over and do it right.

For the gaps, if you don't care how it looks, a can of spray foam (like Great Stuff) can fill the openings. Or use painter's caulk.

For stabilizing the wood shelves, cut a small block of 2x2 wood the width of the shelf and attach it with screws underneath at the corners.

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