Yeah but that's not stopping the condensation in the first place. You see the condensation on the windows because glass isn't porous. Your walls will be soaking it up, and it's harder to see.

Clean it off with vinegar/bleach/mould spray (mould spray is usually just diluted bleach), crack a window a fraction, and turn the heat up. A dehumidifier will help in the first few days or so to help dry it out - but you have a wider problem. I know because I have the exact same problem as I've said with my bay window. The gaps around the old seals were acting as trickle vents and I got mould the moment I sealed them up.

It's the hardest thing to do in a house in the winter - keep it warm but also provide enough airflow

There are poor connections somewhere. My suggestion would be to shut off the mains and methodically go outlet to outlet, switch to switch tightening all junction points. I also always bend the ends of solid conductors to wrap around the screws. I never use the insert junction points. I’ve never trusted them.

Edit wrap the conductor clockwise.

Second edit, sorry, while the mains are off make sure the wires are tight at the breakers or fuses. Do not try to tighten the incoming mains. That will hurt, maybe forever hurt.

A hammer and a big flat bar or something similar should work. Even a big flat shovel or floor scraper - whatever you have that you can hammer into the joint between the wall and the stud. Start at an end - top or bottom - and work to the other end. If the nails pull through the studs, no big deal. You can use vise grip pliers to kind of twist the nails back and forth until they loosen, or if you don’t have those, just tap the exposed nail back and forth with a hammer until they fall out or break off.

its a 1960 trailer. i figure im going to have to pull new wire when i rebuild the exterior walls but i still feel its underpowered. i cant figure out how to attach photos to the post though

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How old? There was a time when trailers were built with aluminum wires. Sketchy.

In that case I'd vent it properly and make sure the whirlybirds are actually functioning(they often dont). Also you'll want to make certain the rest of the sea can is water tight(as best you can) if it isn't those roof vents won't be enough to keep excess moisture out.

I’m trying to add photos but it’s not letting me

Exactly that. Just make sure it's waterproof caulking and the screws are self sealing.

No photos attached.

I’m going to be storing electronics and furniture (plastic bins / wrap) — ideally it would be moisture controlled. I live in a desert, so there’s that working in my favor.

I’m okay with fixing the venting, but not sure of the best way to patch the old hole on the roof. (Buy a sheet of metal, screw it in with roofing screws, silicone caulk the seams?)

To address your other question, assuming it's sheet metal just cut the vent out, get yourself a piece of 13"x 13"(or bigger, just get a piece 1" bigger than the hole), a box of self sealing sheet metal screws and some waterproof caulk. Should do the trick and should keep out the water.

For those exhausts to be even slightly effective they need a wall vent to induce a draft, otherwise they aren't doing anything. But..I mean they aren't the most effective even when installed properly so..🤷‍♂️ since it's a storageshed maybe you don't care much about moisture inside? I guess it all depends on what's going to be stored in there, and how much work do you want to put in?

Depending on what you plan to store do you need ventilation? I had a shipping container at work that I used to store stock (heating fans in cardboard outers) over winter and all I did was sheet the roof with a marine ply board and then tarp the roof. I overlapped the tarp so it sat over the roof onto the upper walls (sides and rear) and added a trim to cover the tarp. I used that shipping container for 12 years and replaced the tarp once in that time. And never had so much as drop of water even in heavy rain.

https://imgur.com/QlfvsS6.jpg I'm glad I listened to you.

If you’re in Germany I’d not bother about AC. Just get a decent dehumidifier and a small space or even an oil filled heater for when you’re in there on very cold days

It could be held in a friction way. Just trying to help. It does matter, many people won’t put drywall in basements because basements are notoriously damp and can get mouldy. When they do they should use really expensive mold and moisture drywall. A home studio / computer room is a shitty room, it’s a recreation room. It should have wood walls.

The silicone isn’t a bad idea, for walls expected to move I bet they just used what they had left over , a good diy method sometimes.

Stucco or texture if you prefer is in tons of houses. It’s used on ceilings often to save having to perfect a ceiling and it has sound dampening qualities. It’s used on interior walls in most of the world. In America were cheap shitty drywall is used people still put it on top for that craftsman European high quality wall feel.

Good luck. I would consider wall coverings of material like some hung sound panels if it will be a theatre room. Hard surface like drywall is the worse for echo.

I 100% agree, I would prefer to go with LVP but as a cheaper immediate fix, we're going with a stained look.

Personally, I have never tried to stain concrete, it's just not a look that I like. If I was in your situation, I would level and go with an LVP floor.

Looking at your photos, one would assume the floor is level. However before applying floor leveler, I would verify that with a long level just to make sure

What about grinding down the uneven surface? Given I'm going to be filling the area roughly 1-2" deep, does it matter if the surface is relatively ground down to an even level?

that dehumidifier is weak sauce, a proper one is rated around 300 watts and weighs 20 pounds, if relative humidity is above 60% inside you're gonna need at least one of those

Should I try to fasten it to any studs that I can find? Or is fastening it to the particle board enough?

First of all it's not a shitty basement room, it's going to be a home theatre/computer room. I mentioned it was a basement room to give full disclosure incase it mattered.

Nobody said to put silicone in drywall cracks. The previous owner filled the cracks between the particle board with silicone, taped over it, and then put a thin film of crackfill over that.

I was under the impression that walls had to have a fire resistant covering like drywall. I could very well be wrong though.

I also mentioned that I can't find any screws or nails, and I believe that they've glued the particle board to the studs. So if their intention was to maintain access to behind the studs then they're doing it wrong.

I've also never seen stucco used on interior walls in any house I've been in. It's always been drywalled.

Batts are usually run up/down, run them side to side. 24” long, as many as you need to fill the cavity. You can peel 6” batts in half, if that’s what you’re working with, to fill your 3” deep wall cavity.

Can I not add pictures to post here? I can't seem to find the option