So the studs are nailed to the concrete wall. What do you recommend to take them out?

What do you mean run them crosswise?

I'm in Missouri so Temps can get cold to hot

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#1 stop bitching about the previous owners # if it’s just a shitty basement room you could use some interior stucco and tape the cracks properly, or use some wood waintscotting overtop. Maybe wallpaper top.

Myself I stucko walls like that , I do the cracks and fill them I roll o trowel on a light texture to hide everything f priming first and after and then paint. Sometimes I will as some woodworking to make it pop. Usually looks better than boring drywall.

Plus maybe the had some moisture problems in the wall or something. Drywall sucks near a flood or moisture. Wood particle board might be better there

Avoid drywall if you are living there the dust and mess , not while you live there.

Drywall is a huge expensive mess, if you are new to it ot will suck.

The prob used particle board so they could take it off and look / dry behind.

What said put silicone in drywall cracks ? Drywall can crack from house settling.

Ah, you’re in a very different climate than me.

I forgot to directly answer your question. My area uses PVC rather than ABS but a reciprocating saw or oscillating saw will cut through it nicely. Dragging a utility knife across is backwards will shave off the burrs. Truly, any handsaw would cut through it. Just depends what tools you already own and how much you want to spend.

Straight bleach should do it. It’s just mold after all. Try and keep the area dry. Or just hit it with a little bleach every now and then.

When I built my house it was so air tight that the city made me install air ports and an exhaust fan that runs about 3 hours a day to prevent build up of humidity and mold. Might be what you need to do....

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Yeah, that's what I was thinking, it's not intended but is the tradeoff small cracks down the line? Because, honestly, small cracks would be an upgrade relative to the large apparent holes we have showcasing themselves.

The holes have since dried but we have ~8 of these through the main living area. They dried a shade lighter than the rest of the slab. https://imgur.com/a/9T3n5oP

I ended up going with a design like this AWS ground station, which has two 180 degree range motors.

I'm curious as I ran into the issue when I was instead using one 360 degree azmiuth stepper, and a 180 degree elevation stepper - how do you control that the wiring doesn't get twisted with azimuth rotation, as the elevation stepper has to rotate with the azimuth?

I'm just curious how this is done with real radio telescopes/ground stations.

Not the person you’re responding to- but I just poured (and messed up, and re-poured on top) a 10x12 room with self-leveling “underlayment” concrete before adding LVP.

Tons of videos online- this one is a good example of a team of professionals making it seem super easy.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5GyXWeSzY_0

Your first attempt will probably not go so smooth- strong recommend some practice on a small area.

It is not intended as the “wear” surface- not the same durability as “regular” concrete; it’s designed to self level AND set quick- can’t also be crazy strong.

Happy to answer any questions

I’ve done it two ways-

1. Paint the base before you install it, go back and caulk and touch up the holes.

2. Put paper down, install base- then paint. Pull paper.

Both work fine.

Your area is pretty dry then. In almost all the houses I’ve worked in they usually run at least daily, year round. With rain fall they can run multiple times per hour.

Can you stain and seal the floor leveler?

We had holes drilled through our concrete slab to repair our foundation and we're left with obviously different filled concrete holes from the rest of the slab.

I'm thinking of applying a thin layer of self-leveler throughout the entire floor which could give us a new concrete slab look. Our plans are to stain/seal the entire floor but I'd like to get a clean starting point and with the holes glaringly obvious, I'm not sure we'll ever get that unless we cover or obscure them in some way.

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Your pit looks bone dry. Do you hear the pump run ever? Normally there should be 1-4” of water in the bottom at all times depending on your pump but I only see some dry dirt in your pit.

Yours is so dry I wouldn’t worry about changing the pump. If you want to have one on standby you can. When it comes times to replace it just cut the pipe near the 90 and reconnect with a Fernco coupling.

I’ve seen a few dry pits before and they were due to not being properly hooked up to the perimeter drain system. No reasonable fix for that and as long as you don’t have other ground water issues you’re all set.

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I believe it's just the amount of condensation it gets. I have a dehumidifier on 24/7 and I still have to mop the walls every morning.

Yeah condensation every morning after I wake up.

I believe it's just condensation. I'm using a window vac to remove the moisture at the moment but want to redo the paint to get rid of the mould.

No and it is condensation based. I have a window vac that takes care of the water to deal with it.

Any photos? Typically there’s a check valve on the discharge line where you can unscrew the bands on the rubber collars. If you don’t have one you should add it or at the very least cut the pipe and reconnect with a Fernco coupling.

I included the EPA link because it specifically mentions not to use bleach, but instead a mold-killing detergent or agent, and also mentions that cleanup isn’t enough: the underlying cause needs to be addressed.

Use of white cleaning grade vinegar as an agent which kills many types of mold is covered here, if that’s more useful to you:

https://www.servicemaster-restoration-cleaning.com/mold-myths/