THIS IS THE WAY. I paint professionally. We tape all trim except the tops and bottoms of windows/ doors where you cant see. We then use white or clear AlexFlex caulk and lay down the thinnest bead possible on the edge of the tape. Then, wipe off most of the caulk or spread it out as thinly as possible. Paint the masked area immediately, and remove the tape immediately after painting to reveal a crisp cut line with no bleeding.

I'd tear off the particle board. If it isn't fastened correctly the weight of the drywall could lead to cracking. Just do it right and ensure all the time you put it wont go to waste later.

Also gives you a good chance to see if everything behind is done right.

This just says "detergent"

Not necessarily. Moulds across that sort of breadth would either be a MAJOR leak on the outside cladding, or it's internal and condensation based

Do you have working trickle vents on those windows? It can be just condensation. I had no issues in my house until I sealed up gaps around old windows. Turns out the gaps were incidentally providing air flow. Got mould inside of 3 weeks.

Make sure you cut the insulation about 1/4" short on all sides. That will leave a nice gap to fit the spray foam in.

Use rigid foam insulation. It comes in 4x8 sheets. It will perform way better than any batt.

I would take off that baseboard and cut out some of that Sheetrock to investigate. That window is probably leaking.

Don’t tape. Use a square brush not an angled brush. You’ll need a bit of practise but a good clean square brush applied with light pressure to flatten the bristles, starting from top or mid point and slide along until you get to the bottom will yield a straight clean cut. Use a moisten rag to clean anything that hits the floor while it’s still wet.

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And that tape is expensive and can’t be reused.

Bleach doesn’t kill the roots of mold, only the surface.

Vinegar or a mold-specific treatment would kill the mold thoroughly, but until you find the source of the moisture (eg is a sprinkler pointed at that wall?? broken gutter? plumbing issue??) you’re masking the symptoms, not fixing the cause.

https://www.epa.gov/mold/mold-cleanup-your-home

Compressing the insulation reduces its R-value considerably.

I would use rigid foam board, take your time and cut to fit, and use a spray foam gap sealer (comes in a can) around the edges once it’s in.

or monostable 555

At a minimum you need to deal with the water, remove the damaged boards, and kill and clean the remaining material.

You’re getting water in behind that drywall somehow. You’ll need to find where it’s coming in and seal that first.

Love point 6

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Interior doors have gaps at the bottom to allow air to circulate back to central furnace/AC. If there isn't a return air grill you will reduce flow into the room by closing the gap.

Wish I lived close enough to just help you with this task, but guessing you are nowhere near Jackson, MS.

The pipe coming from the wall as drain line should be 2", and hopefully not iron pipe. .....but very often it is iron. This larger pipe is less apt to break.

As for the 1/2" galvanized supply lines, I would recommend against any shark bite type fitting going onto galvanized pipe. It's kinda rough and may not make a good seal. Also, if galvanized pipe breaks off there's still gonna be threads which can be sharp enough to damage the o-ring in a shark bite fitting.

Perhaps I am a minority, but my experience with shitty 1/4" and 3/8" shark bite type fittings biased me against that crap all together. Sure o-ring technology may have improved such that they don't crush in 6 years and leak if you sneeze on them after the o-rings are deformed. Still, I will never use shark bite type fittings if any other solution exists.

If the 1/2" pipe breaks off at the valve, you'd be much better off trying to jackass it with something threaded. The fitting I used for that purpose may have had female 5/8 flare threads. It took a lot of Teflon tape and threaded past the remaining 1/2" npt threads. Wish I could find an example part on Amazon, but didn't have any luck.

Use a (radiator) duster?

>polarity shouldn't make a difference since it's just a magnetic pull

 

Good point, the math for that isn't as simple as saying when the current reverses so does the force....it would if the projectile were permanently magnetized (and that were the significant effect) but it is just iron and its own magentization is caused by the coil and reverses too. If that did happen, one could try to tune the circuit to oscillate just once and pull the projectile partway then push. But as you say, by the time the projectile is at the midpoint one wants to have the current shut off.

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