Are the spaces 24” or are the studs 24” on centre? You should be able to find fibreglass batts that work for 24 on centre.

As far as the depth of the studs goes, can you move the framing out? Pull the nails top and bottom and move it out from the wall 3”. That'll give you plenty of room for insulation. I'm assuming that the framing isn’t structural—just backing for drywall.

I hadn't thought of looking for that kind. Reviewing some of those options now. Thanks!

I use a 24" paint shield and a good brush.

it increases R value per inch, but loses inches. The R value actually goes up when compressing fiberglass.

Have you looked at PTAC through-wall units? These are what motel rooms use and you can get smaller sizes to fit your btu requirements. They're cheaper than mini-spilts and would be good for this application to deliver heating and cooling.

I hate the tape. I paint by hand with a tiny brush, even an artist's brush, if I have to, and just have a steady hand. Also follow with a damp good quality paper towel. Near carpet, use thin cardboard undere baseboard or quarter round. Slow and steady wins the race.

My dad made me a go cart when I was a kid, and I’m not sure I’m understanding correctly, but he cut a groove out of the 2x4 so the rod sat in it and inverted the 2x4 so the weight of the cart held the rod in the groove. The rod was secured in the groove I’m sure, but I don’t recall how. Might have just been the fact that there was nowhere for it to go. On each end of the 2x4 there was fender washer so the wheel didn’t rub on the end of the 2x4.

It held up until we outgrew it.

Are your studs 2" x 3" or 1.5" x 2.5"?

This is the best insulation answer. Lots of work

No sorry I wasn’t clear. There is no pressure adjustment only temp adjustment. Turn the handle and it’s full blast cold. As you keep turning its full blast warm then full blast hot. The handle only adjusts the temperature. I know some of these handles used to pull out or tilt in addition to turning that would adjust the pressure but this doesn’t. It’s all or nothing. I would like to be able to change it to that type of handle to change the pressure also but concerned how major of a project it would be if possible at all. TIA

Giant puffy knife on the ground you can paint against and move along with the brush as you go

You are using too much paint

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Like others have said light sand, skim, then texture or whatever look you want or are matching. The only thing I would add is throw on a coat of primer before painting. I know most paints are supposed to be paint and primer, but putting a coat of primer on before painting will really help with your final color especially if going with a dark color.

Most outdoors electronics/equipment enclosures I have seen just use a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan to keep temps down.

By “depends on the setting “ do you mean the water pressure increases or decreases in relation to hot or cold water? For clarification: turn to cold and water has high pressure, turn to hot and the pressure decreases (or vice versa)? If so this could be an issue with the pressure tank on the hot water heater. I’m assuming this is a house with a normal hot water heater with a pressure tank above.

IMO, furr out the 2x3 to turn it into 2x4s and then put a 2x4 in the 24 inch space so you have one 16 inch on center stud and another 8 inch on center.

That way at least half the space will be easy to insulate

The 23 inch wide insulation is like 20 cents more expensive per sqft so depending on size it could be cheaper to create some 16 inch on center studs

I tape, then add just the very thinnest line of caulk along the tape edge (using a finger or a rag to make it nearly invisible). Paint, then remove the tape - no seepage, and a nice clean line.

Those paper stars generally just tie over the socket with a couple of strings.

Just buy an American hanging socket with a cord and a plug from Amazon for $8.

Easy and it saves the hassle.

Paint the baseboards after you cut to size but before you install. Then just touch up the nail gun holes.

If REpainting, tape of course and use good painter tape. And do the bottom bit against the floor with a hand brush and not a lot on the brush. With the rest, again don’t put too much paint on the brush. Avoid drips

Please do!

Personally, I’d take the framing (really furring) out first. Make sure there are no leaks in the wall or walls, and if there are you have to fix those before you think about insulating. For insulation, rigid foam right against the foundation to cut off thermal bridging. Foam thickness depends on climate zone and insulation type (eps, xps, polyiso, phenolic). Then reinstall the furring and fasten your drywall to that.

Buy rigid insulation, cut it to fit and glue it in. Finish it off by using spray foam on the sides top and bottom to fill gaps.

If you can't learn to cut a line, do this:

Tape.

Paint along the edge of the tape lightly with the SAME COLOR THE TAPE IS PROTECTING.

Now paint with the other color.

No bleed through.

I'd call in a plumber at that point.