Just buy the bat insulation for 2x6 walls and pull it in 1/2. It generally separates very cleanly along a cosistent plane. It does create a little more airbourne dust than cutting, but i would recommend wearing a proper ½ mask respirator anyway.

I do r13, so mine was 55.

Professional painters have a loop on their pants to hold a wet rag, to wipe anything as they go. I have suggested these type paint guides to friends, just wipe it as you move along the baseboard/ floor if it gets messy. You can also put down some News paper or a drop cloth if your nervous. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-12-in-Plastic-Paint-Guide/1000024777

I bought 2” foam board insulation with a r-10 rating last week, 4x8 sheet was $42

It had never occurred to me that there are different voltage light bulbs.

Do you have any ideas of what I can do if the pipe breaks when I try to take the valve off? The other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it so I can’t take it off if it breaks. Just in case it breaks, what would you say I should do?

Ok—thank you so so much! I’ll let you know how it goes!

Not a fan of shark bites so I wouldn't know.

It's a wall in a basement laundry room. The wall is a concrete foundation wall that has some 2x3 framing on it already

Who is Jon?

Rigid insulation will fit that bill.

I'll send you a screenshot. It's $650 US

Both are at Home Depot since that is the store closest to me, Lowes will have similar products. The specifications and instructions are pretty straightforward if you want to dive in to the details.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rapid-Set-50-lb-CTS-Concrete-Leveler-186010050/204414391

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-SikaLevel-50-lb-Self-Leveling-Underlayment-Concrete-Floor-Leveler-517004/207086698

This. I use cheap plastic cutting mats from the dollar tree. Hold up a little better than cardboard when used repeatedly.

Hard to tell if it's brass or not, but I'm leaning towards yes. The angle stop definitely is. If you rub sandpaper on the pipe it should look gold if it's brass, silver if steel. If you have a nice strong magnet to test with the brass will not stick to it. That link I posted is for a PVC transition but it says it's also for ips. PVC, iron, steel, and brass piping all have the same outside diameter, so it should fit. I've never used an IPS one because I've never had to and in general I prefer not to use shark bites (they very rarely fail but are not the most reliable method of repair) but from the description it does say it works for IPS. If you do have to use a shark bite, the pipe must be damn near perfectly smooth and without scrapes or burrs or else it will damage the shark bite's o-ring and cause a leak.

I don't think you'll have an issue unthreading the old valve, I just want to give you some emergency options.

We plan on polishing the whole level, so it doesn't need to be exactly level, we're just looking to get that front entrance area back on level with the rest of the floor. We plan on doing stained/painted concrete for the immediate fix and might do LVP in the future.

I'm worried about the self-lever breaking through the forms, which is why we are willing to go the concrete route.

Do you mind linking some products so I know what you're referring to?

2x3 exterior wall framing? Is this infill in a timber frame, pole barn, or something similar? Knowing what kind of structure this is would be helpful in recommending an insulation strategy.

If it is only 1", I would go with a concrete leveler either SikaLevel 50 lb. Self-Leveling Underlayment Concrete Floor Leveler or Rapid Set 50 lb. CTS Concrete Leveler.

It is the more expensive option but much easier to work with and less risk of cracking.

At 1", 1 bag will cover 5 sf, so you would need 5 bags

You need to prime the floor with an Underlayment Primer

So, $200-$250

The cheaper option would be to use a Sand/Topping mix witha fortifier and the primer, around $100.

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Forms... depending on the working area you can use plywood, 2x4, etc. You just need to make sure nothing can run out of the bottom or corners. The self level has a milkshake consistency if there is a space in any of the forms it will find it.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to drill a couple of holes and run in a couple of tapcon concrete anchors. If you leave them sticking out a bit they'll act as pieces of rebar linking everything together.

Do we need to drill holes throughout the 4x6 area so that the concrete has something to set itself into? I'm thinking 4 holes about 2-4" inches deep to prevent movement or would the bonding primer do that?

You can find insulation that is 24” wide. It’s commonly used. Using 3-1/2” thick insulation will be fine. Compressing the insulation makes it lose a little bit of R-Value, but not much.

The R13 is for 2x4s and covers 163sq ft for $118 Item 108995.

6 divided by 2 is 3. Batt insulation splits very easily.

A general rule of thumb with insulation - either board or glasswool roll - is there is incredibly little waste. Just cut to size and put it in the gaps as best you can. I'm assuming you're going to be covering with a vapour barrier and plasterboard / drywall in any case? It doesn't matter a damn how the insulation looks - as long as it's full coverage with as close to no gaps as possible.

If you get rolls of insulation for the required area just cut to the required width (in your case 22") with a saw - while it's still in the roll. Sheet insulation can be like the worst made jigsaw in the world - who cares? It's going to be hidden in any case. Just slice it all to fit nice and tightly to the studs.

A serrated knife cuts it well. Or, Home Depot has some pink board with perforated lines to allow for easy sections.