That's for 2x6 studs, though, and won't properly fit in a 3" cavity.

Lowes carries a 24" R19 wall insulation that covers about 133sq ft. It's $109 here. Yes there are some rolls you can get for $30, but they only cover 40sq ft.

I was thinking about that too

Insulation is hard to do nowadays less than a 100. Might get foam board and cut it down.

Try looking for concrete bonding primer, that's what you'll need to make sure it bonds well with the existing subfloor.

Forming can be done by anything that holds the concrete and doesn't absorb too much water. A couple pieces of wood will do fine most of the time for small jobs. If you have some melamine coated particle board which you can rip into strips it will work even better. You can use some cheap caulk to make sure the forms don't leak.

Normally you can walk on the concrete in about a day. However, it takes about a week before you can put a heavy load on it, and a full month before it's fully cured. If you can put flooring on it depends on the amount of moisture in the concrete. You can test this by putting a piece of clear plastic on the floor. If it isn't wet on the bottom after a day, it's dry enough.

The simplicity I need. Thank you!

I'm not opposed to it, but that does sound a bit complicated and expensive. I'm looking to see if I can insulate this 1 wall for about $100 or less

Thank you so much! I hope you get your problem fixed!

Ah - you left that important part out. If you have a restrictor for the new head, you can drill it out a little bit to let some more flow through. Go a little at a time though - you can’t un-drill it if you go to far. Though I suppose you could fill it with JB weld and drill it again

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Hibbent-Pressure-Showerhead-Adjustable-Extension/dp/B0B3XFKPGD/ref=sr_1_145_sspa?keywords=dual%2Bshowerhead&qid=1674849796&s=kitchen-bath&sr=1-145-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExN1c3Tks4NEJURklGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzI1NTkwMVlKTktZNkRVSDBEWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTI1MDEzUE9LUVg3OE42MFlXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

I took out the restrictor is the only reason it really increased pressure but now it is too much. I keep the handheld part on just to reduce the flow a little.

If you seal the bays with plastic, you could do blow in insulation.

It's all threaded pipe from what I can see. You cannot just cut galvanized and reconnect with a sharkbite because of the outside diameter. Sure the IPS is all the same but the sharkbite has an ops that is less than galvanized line. Secondly they are not designed for galvanized line.you can get a female 1/2" threaded to sharkbite and screw the thread into your existing line and then convert the rest to copper or pex, but at some point it appears you need a threaded connection along the way. The only way you can cut a pipe and use a sharkbite is on copper or pex.

I think you need a plumber at this point.

The other question here is how are you going to shutoff to make these changes? The t you want to move is below your working shutoff. If this is an apartment I'm not sure you'll be able to do the shutoff further down the line and not affect your neighbors.

Use an H-Bridge.

That's what I did, now I am getting sandblasted. Before it was a trickle.

Doesn’t galvanized pipe fall under IPS? (I’m not questioning. I’m just trying to learn).

Also, how can you tell the pipe coming from the wall is galvanized and not brass? Isn’t galvanized usually steel color?

32c is nothing for your electronics. They will regularly run upwards of 50c (120f) without problems. The cold won't bother them at all. The main thing you need to worry about is humidity. They make desiccant bins for exactly this reason though.

i think the tape is for protecting against an accidental brush stroke, not for creating a full liquid tight seal. if you drown it in paint it will fail. so just use the tape as "training wheels" for cutting in neatly in the first instance :)

You don't have brass. You have galvanized pipe. You can't shark bite galvanized pipe you would need a threaded adapter at some juncture to go from galvanized to another pipe material.

Thank you!!

If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-PVC-IPS-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-UIP120A/206352901

If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-PVC-IPS-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-UIP120A/206352901

I can't answer your question, but can I ask you one? What kind of shower head did you get? I have really crappy pressure, and would love to find a shower head that increases the pressure.

Thank you so much!

Here are some better pictures of the pipe. This is brass?

https://imgur.com/a/YotJUGx

Also, the fitting you gave me is technically for PVC. It would be ok to use for those pipes if they are cut off?

It's not reverse flow in this case, polarity shouldn't make a difference since it's just a magnetic pull. The problem OP is facing is that the coil is just a magnet pulling the projectile towards the center. At t=0, the projectile gains a ton of momentum rushing towards the coil, by the time it gets there the magnetic force has dropped a ton since the voltage of the caps has dropped. But there's still a little bit. Once the projectile gets past the coil, the magnetic field is now pulling back on the projectile, slowing it down. Since the voltage is much lower from when it started, it won't be an equal force, but it'll slow it down none the less.

There will certainly be a ringing after the coil dies down, but I don't think that's the source of OP's problem. Good point though, I recommended IGBT'S for switching the coil off and I didn't think of the flyback current on turn off. OP, look at guides to put a clamping/flyback diode across the IGBT. A 1N7007 should be fine. You can buy like 100 of them on Amazon for like $10. A great thing to keep in the electronics drawer too.

How about this? If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-PVC-IPS-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-UIP120A/206352901

Thank you.