The super can close my apartments water. I’m in NY.

If the brass pipe coming from the wall brakes off, can I cut it and then deburr it, and then use this shark bite attachment?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-PVC-IPS-x-1-2-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-UIP120A/206352901

My father used to do similar with an old piece of linoleum. More rigid and doesn't soak anything up. I think a wide putty or taping knife could also work.

Putting a resistor in circuit will increase the response time, but that will reduce the force acting on the projectile in the beginning. You would get the same effect by reducing the charge voltage on the caps. What you, err... OP, ideally wants is maximum current going through the coil in 0 amount of time (maximum magnetic force) but turn it off right when the projectile gets to the center, otherwise the magnetic force will be pulling the projectile back to center after it gets to the other side, slowing it down. Since we have to deal with this pesky real world physics, there's a rise/fall time in current change that is dragged out due to resistance, so you ultimately have to switch off the coil before the projectile gets to center. There are a few ways to go about this, which is why engineering is so fun!

Great, thanks! I'm getting access denied, but the Company alone is a great help!

This is my actual unit I believe. I’m in the USA so your mileage may vary. 😁

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Koldfront-12-000-BTU-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-and-Remote-in-White-WAC12001W/309204557

Op’s issue is new head allows too much pressure

I imagine you can't even shut off your own unit without the whole building and thusly that assembly of stops and fittings you have there ...

I'd just add another add a t for the fridge and be done with it

Or get ready for a barely reasonable to quite large plumbers bill...

Chicago? I'd guess from the brass drain assembly.

Get an outlet cover on the electric, no reason for that.

Wedge sheet metal between the floor and baseboard

Can you remove doors and fit new ones in existing jambs? Yes but you need to measure and make sure the new ones are the exact same height and width and thickness. You will need slabs as any pre hung there is no guarantee hinge slots and knob holes are in the right spots

Ok so say you have a standard 30x 80 inch door. Well you can use the old door as a template for hinge slots and knob holes. But still might have to do some planing or sanding as you really have no idea what was done to make the old ones fit. But say you get a decent fit. Quite often you need to remove and reset the door stops as they are set to the slight warps of the old one and the new one might not hit right.I've done a lot of doors and sometimes they go smooth and other times you spend time playing around to get a good fit.

So as long as you are replacing a standard size with the same it shouldn't be too hard. Most can be more or less plug and play but there is always at least that "one". GL

Have you tried running a ramp rag over the painters tape before painting? It helps make clean, crisp lines on walls.

A good brush, well cared for and quite familiar to the painter, is the way I go every time.

If tape is loose, and paint gets near, it will wick under the tape.

Removing tape may mess up wet paint.

You mentioned the recent shower head replacement. A fast inexpensive fix would be to remove the restriction washer in the new shower head.

Take a magazine. Rip all the pages out. Slide the pages under your baseboard for the entire length. You can take the extra step of taping them together if you're real bad at painting so they don't slide around. Pull out the pages as soon as you're done and throw them directly in the bin.

There could be with a junky heater near flamables. I use a decent metal frame "milk house heater" and keep it away from flamables. They are intended to heat living space. Most fires with electric heaters are caused by poor extension cords and proximity to flamables. Be safe and use a safe heater and it will be fine. Good quality, no extension cord, its own separate electric circuit.

So I went through this exercise years ago, I installed lots of trim in my house and painted with colors so cutting in would be very time consuming and stressful. In fact with base or chair rail its nearly impossible to cut in when painting wall after trim - I had a pro tell me in this case they paint the wall first, then chair rail, then wall under chair rail then base (top to bottom method). The problem with painters tape is that its designed primarily for easy releease so its made from crepe paper - thus no chance of blocking seepage.

There are tapes made from smooth almost plastic like backing at the home centers (Scotch). The one I used is also blue and I just looked it up, seems they may have changed the name from what I have, now they call it sharp lines. This will make a huge difference as long as the surface you are taping to is perfectly clean and not too textured.

I tried the Frog tape once and spent hours applying it and next morning it had all fallen off, I think the adhesion is really low.

Thanks, I just thought there was an overheating danger in leaving the smaller space heaters on over night

(https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/blog/how-to-not-burn-your-house-down-with-a-space-heater/)

My well insulated slightly smaller (10x12 10ft ceiling) uses one 1000 watt electric heater to keep it toasty warm. In the summer I have one cheap 5000 wall shaker built in. This is in Ontario. Why go crazy, my whole climate control system for a really nice little building cost under 250$. Other than electric cost, why cant you leave it on 24/7?

Also make sure that floor is clean before applying tape. If it's dirty or dusty you don't get good adhesion.

If you get a free standing heat pump, get a 2 hose model. 1 hose models are for stupid folks who don’t understand that they are vacuuming out the very air they are trying to heat or cool.

Media makes one with a fake giant single hose that is actually split into 2 hoses.

But a warning. As good as the modern inverter based (!) portables are I don’t think they deal with condenser icing very well. The smallest mini split heat pump you can buy is by far the best solution. Aging Wheels on youtube went through the install of a mini-split. He’s pretty inept but overly confident and still figured it out just fine. It will outlive the portable unit, is quieter and is far more energy efficient.

Whatever you buy, make sure it is an inverter model. I can’t stress how big of a deal that feature is. It’s half the power consumption by the time the dust settles.

I am heating a 3400 sq fr shop to 70F with a pair of 24k BTU mini splits and they are brilliant. I’m pretty sure one can do the job at the freezing mark. I am monitoring the power consumption and they average 800W continuous draw each. It’s nothing. The inverter allows the compressors to turn slow. The ‘low’ mode is super efficient because you have a massive amount of radiator area per cooling or heating. All the fans throttle down and it just pours the heat out.

i think you'll be safe regarding burning down regardless.... as long as you haven't imported any sketchy electronics from china lol :D

worst case scenario for good quality electronics is they shut down for a while.

Could you provide a link to something like that? I am from germany and looking for something like that for ages, but everything I can find is way more expensive than a Regular split AC.

Had a similar problem. Wall had a light orange peel texture and after spackeling it looked horrible with all the smooth spots sticking out like a sore thumb. Had to skim it to fix it. TLDR just go straight to skimming.

I painted professionally for several years. We didn't tape straight edges like this - we learned how to paint to a hard line directly. Once you are skilled, it's faster and doesn't suffer from the problems you're having. Cleaning up the occasional oops manually turns out to be much faster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Qh14pX3IxA

I'd drop in a wall/ window ac unit that has a heating feature or a mini split. Hook all that up to a few solar panels and batteries and you'll be able to keep that shed temperature/humidity regulated 24/7/365.

...

The big swings in temp combined with humidity in an uncontrolled shed will simply lead to electronic corrosion and failure earlier than later.

But if you don't mind replacing those items sooner than later, whatever.

This is the correct answer. It is cheap and simple.