I just put a long, straight piece of cardboard under the wood, paint, move the cardboard down the baseboard, then paint that section and so on. Tape is for amateurs

I specifically look for hackers and inquisitive minds when I hire. I always tell people to bring in photos of DIY projects they have done and to not worry about how bad some of them are as I understand how ugly prototypes and junk building is.

Keep up the stupid shit! It will get you far and you don’t know why yet. But you’ll find out.

We have had somewhat better luck with FROGTAPE brand painters tape. But there is an art to applying it. -TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't rush. -after the tape is applied, run a ruler over it to seal the edge. -Paint all the coats you intend, THEN TAKE THE TAPE OFF! DO NOT WAIT! Slowly pull the tape at a 30-90 degree angle. The longer you wait, the more the danger of peeling the paint with the tape.

I have something similar. I open the windows in the summer. Winter I only turn on the heat when I am planning on working out there. I'm in Ontario, so winter can get cold and summers are 90's and humid. Things have been working fine for 2 years.

They have window units that have cooling and heat options. Not sure about efficiency compared to mini-split. Minisplit probably technically more efficient, but will cost more short term.

I usually just cut the lines by hand with a smaller angled brush and hope for the best, wash the rest

We use a thermostatically controlled window heat pump. They both heat and cool. They are relatively cheap for small spaces and can be set and forgot.

There's an entire EE degree to unpack here. The switch on time will be limited by the internal series resistance of the caps, best thing you can do is put them in parallel, which you've done, but when you do your calcs, don't forget to take this into account. For your switch off time, you want to use an IGBT - not a MOSFET. IGBT's are more or less the same but have better switching performance at high currents. I don't remember which ones specifically, but look at the IGBT's OneTesla uses in their Tesla coils. They sell replacements, look up that P/N and start from there. You may need to order a variant that can accommodate the currents your coil is drawing. Ballpark it by Vcap/(Rcoil + Rcaps).

Look up how to wire an IGBT as a switch and then use the gate as the on/off for your coil. Take a bottle of Adderall and watch very closely when the projectile gets to the middle of your coil and then quickly turn off the IGBT. Reaction time is key. When you realize you can't react that fast, think of a good way to use a sensor that will automatically switch off the IGBT when the projectile gets to a certain position. Perhaps an optical sensor, inductive feedback, or something. It will take some dialing in, but should get you there. There are a 1000 ways to optimize this, but this is a really great start and it's best to optimize one step at a time.

Keep it up! DIY projects and staying curious will get you much farther in your career than stereotypical "resume skills." When I interview people or look at resumes, this is one of the big things I look for - personal projects. To me, it means your curious, want to learn, and have a fundamental passion for engineering. Sure a coil gun may not be directly relevant to my company, but knowing that you understand the bigger picture - the product, the fabrication, iterating through failures, component costs - that is entirely relevant, and surprisingly a rare trait.

DM if you have some specific questions, I'll do my best to assist

Thanks, yeah the ones I was looking at have 1 duct to the window

Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BPP08HWTB-Portable-Conditioner/dp/B08TH93TGG

https://www.amazon.com/Ukoke-USPC01W-Portable-Conditioner-Dehumidifier/dp/B07R7ZGQ8P

I'm mostly worried about it getting too hot at night and burning down lol

The greatest things about modern power supplies for things like laptop is they don't care about the socket. Plug into 120 whatever. They make it work.

electronics don't mind the cold. they don't love heat but they have over-temp protection for the heat. what they really don't like is wet and damp so that would be my number one concern.

free standing AC is a bit of a debatable issue... a 2-duct system that both draws air in from and exhausts air out to the outside is alright

1 duct for exhaust only will cause a negative pressure in the room drawing air in from outside which is... not efficient.. but technically it'll cool the room.

0 ducts is just nonsense imo because the thing has a hot side and a cold side and the hot side beats the cold side :D

This is incredibly easy. Ten bucks at any convenience shop in a tourist city

Additionally this is a rental property where multiple tenants have "fiddled" with everything since its construction 1984/1985.

They must be nice lamps to offset the transportation cost

Lightvwas flickering without fan being on.

This was a light kit added to the fan (same brand _ Harbor Breeze) and if replacing lightswitch will not work I will recheck all wiring and then replace bulbs

In 13 years I've never had threads "come off" with the pipe. The only thing I've had happen is the pipe would crush when I beared down while removing. Those pipes I knew were unlikely to hold up though because they were so corroded, and were steel-steel. Yours looks like it's in remarkably good shape to me and I would have no worries about it. Brass-steel is much easier to remove and brass-brass even more so. That said, nothing in life is guaranteed and yea you might be in trouble if something were to break. If it comes to that, you can cut off the damaged threads and after sanding/cleaning any scratches or scapes off the pipe use an IPS (iron pipe size, same outside diameter as galvanized steel, brass, and PVC) shark bite like this and continue your work exactly like you would have done, or if it's a hard to find item you can probably more easily find a shark bite 1/2" IPS cap to install until you can get the parts you need. Rethreading the pipe is also possible but not an option I'd go for at that point.

Your best bet to avoid damage is to make sure your wrenches are secure while you're removing the old shut off valve, and put your leverage into the wrenches, not the pipe. I see guys put their weight into the wrench and it puts stress on the pipe.

I had a painting business and when I came across areas that needed a lot of spackle id call a drywaller, Thats all they do and they do it well. Worth the money.

As others have said, an experienced drywaller could mud the entire surface faster than you could individually fill all of the holes. But, generally, if I'm going to be filling holes, I'll use spackle because it dries faster and shrinks less. If you plan on skim coating the whole thing definitely use joint compound but if you can afford paying someone experienced to do it, they can do it way faster than you and will look better.

I wouldn't be able to tell, call in a local plumber and have v it done to code.

First comment is to be very careful, the current those capacitor could put through a human body at 400 volts is very very far above lethal.

 

Second comment is, a resistor is going to drag down the cicruit and dissipate a lot of your energy. You know that the rate of change of current at the start, at time zero, is voltage divided by inductance, V/L. So at the beginning the graph of current over time looks like an increasing line of slope V/L. The total charge that has flowed is the integral of this which is 1/2 (V/L) t^2 if t is time. But then the voltage starts to decrease, the voltage is Q/C where Q is charge, and at the outset Q=Q_0 - 1/2 (V/L)t^2 where Q_0 is starting charge. The best way to continue is by differential equations because V is not really constant, but for small values of time, if we approximate the charge that has flowed as 1/2(V_0/L)t^2 where V_0 is initial voltage, then remaining charge is Q_0 - (1/2)(V_0/L) and voltage is V= (1/c) (Q_0 - (1/2)(V_0/L)t^2) so in this formula Q_0 is starting currentm V_0 is starting voltage and you see the voltage dropping off. It is clear that you need to increase L. As I say, this is just an approximation for small time.

 

By the way, you would also see if you write down the differential equation, an oscillation after the bullet has left. If you had an amazingly durable diode you could prevent reverse flow, but I do not know how expensive it would be to get a diode that can handle the very extreme currents you'd want to put through it.

 

You can see that you have a small coil --- that is the problem.

Yes, that one or the other one that was suggested would work.

Yes. Will you do it correctly? Not without some research. Incorrectly means the lights won't light and/or a wire that should be a ground connection is hot and thus a shock hazard.

Look up European power plugs and report here the kind or kinds of plug(s) your lights have. Maybe someone will be brave and will tell you how to connect a US plug to the light's wires.

The other side of the wall is another apartments bedroom. I live in an apartment building (I own my unit). Thats somewhat the issue. If the pipe threads come off, the other pipe thread is far behind the wall and I’d have the break the wall. And it’s possible the next pipe behind the wall also breaks off when you try take that pipe off lol so it can be endless. The building is very old and so I’m sure the piping is very old as well. Is there a way that if the threads come off, I could cut the pipe to make the ends straight, and then attach some type of adapter or something? Or the only way is really to keep removing pipes behind the wall till you get a thread?

Short answer, no, not without extensive work. You're better off hiring a licensed plumber for that kind of addition if you want to do it right.

Another thing to mention, when you remove the old valves from the pipes coming from the wall, you should use two wrenches. Ideally, a small pipe wrench for the pipe coming from the wall, and an adjustable wrench or tongue and groove pliers for the valve. Two t&g pliers would also be just fine if you don't mind some cosmetic scratches.

One will be used to remove the valve, the other pair will be placed in the opposite direction to HOLD THAT WALL PIPE STILL

Don't let the pipe coming from the wall rotate or you might have to unthread it completely and reapply tape/dope to reseal it. Speaking of tape and dope, tape should only ever be applied clockwise, otherwise tightening a new fitting can unwrap the tape. So when you remove that valve, looking down the barrel of that wall pipe, you'll apply 3-4 full wraps of tape in a clockwise direction. You won't need pipe dope, but I always smear a real small amount onto the tape. It makes it take that much less effort to tighten things together. A sharp knife is less dangerous than a dull one, and you'll need less force in an already awkward position (working under sinks is fun!) to properly tighten things up. Think snug, not cranked on. There's nothing to be gained from overtightening.

Easiest approach is gonna be something like this:

flow control valve

Which goes between the shower head and pipe.