You'd be opening the wall through the back of the cabinet then.

It's probably worth every penny to have a plumber come deal with this.

They know all the tricks to help prevent the worst case.

They have insurance too. In case the worst happens and you flood the neighbors.

It's possible, but washing machines are high water demand appliances so expect longer run time for both dishwasher and washing machine if you run them at the same time.

A major concern is draining the washing machine, as those things dump a huge amount of water. The kitchen sink drain is only 1.5" pipe, though they often go into 2" pipe at the wall. Washing machine drains usually go straight into 2" pipe and must have an air gap.

Dumping it into the sink could provide an air gap and a decent baffle tank, but this would not be an elegant solution. Putting a tee into your kitchen drain line, running a pipe through the cabinet, then installing a riser to the height of the kitchen countertop could work. Just strap the riser to the cabinet and hook the washing machine drain into it. If you install the tee after the sink J trap, you'll also need to put a J trap on your newly jackassed washing machine drain line.

Your case looks special, in that you have fancy kitchen drain line shit. Assuming that J trap has 2" threads, if you can remove that reducer tee from the J trap and install a 2" tee, then install your reducer tee on top of that, things could work quite nicely. Of course, you'd have to shorten this sink drain pipes a bit too get them hooked back up.

This could cause a building code violation, but as long as you don't get caught it's better than trips to the laundromat. You may also want to make sure you're even allowed to have a washing machine, as the first unbalanced load will rat out your washing machine ownership to all of your neighbors.

The only other thing to consider is that washing machines also dump huge amounts of lint down the drain. This is only a concern if the building has iron sewer pipe, as the rust chunks can cause lint buildup.

P.S. if/when you have to replace your kitchen sink drain pipes, do not use the thin brass nonsense. Plastic will not etch out over time, but thin brass will. If you live there long enough, you'll see exactly what I'm taking about.

No.

Sometimes the pipe threads/ end of pipe can be removed with an easy out, if not that's where the plumber and a repipe comes into play.

Likely need to open the wall. What's on the other side of this wall?

Negative on that laundry.

But if you have a plumber come they can assess the situation and make recommendations.

Appreciate the reply. I figured so, I’ll have to see what I can do to get access to those nails. Thanks again!

The issue is the end of that pipe is far behind the wall and i don’t have access to it. Is there anyway to cut the pipe straight if it breaks and then use an adapter of some sort?

(In theory if you were to break the wall and then take the end of the pipe in the wall off, you can run into the same issue again where the next pipe breaks or it’s threads come off since the building piping I’m sure is really old).

If you break a section you'll need to move further down the line to the next threaded section and attach there.

Sorry one last question. I’m realizing now that when I try to take off the shutter valve, the pipe may crack, or the threads for the pipe might come off with the shutter valve. If that happens, the other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it to replace the whole pipe. Would there be a way to solve this issue in case it happens without removing the wall to change the pipe? Like is there an adaptor or something that I can use to attach to the pipe if it breaks off to give me a threaded end to use?

So I’m in an apartment (I own it) and I don’t have access to behind the walls. And the end of the pipe is behind the walls. So if when I try to take off the shutter valve, the pipe cracks, or the threads for the pipe comes off with the shutter valve, the other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it to replace the whole pipe. Would there be a way to solve this issue in case it happens without removing the wall to change the pipe? Like is there an adaptor or something that I can use to attach to the pipe if it breaks off to give me a threaded end to use?

Before I ask about the washer, I have a quick question. I’m realizing now that when I try to take off the shutter valve, the pipe may crack, or the threads for the pipe might come off with the shutter valve. If that happens, the other end of the pipe is far behind the wall and I don’t have access to it to replace the whole pipe. Would there be a way to solve this issue in case it happens without removing the wall to change the pipe? Like is there an adaptor or something that I can use to attach to the pipe if it breaks off to give me a threaded end to use?

True, this is what you're talking about: https://socratic.org/questions/how-do-resistors-affect-capacitors#:~:text=The%20larger%20the%20resistor%20%2C%20the,has%200%20Volts%20across%20it.

but they don't want to slow down the capacitor discharge, since that would decrease the force with which the projectile is propelled. They want to very slightly stagger the discharge of each capacitor, so that each capacitor discharges as the projectile is passing it down the barrel.

To do that, I would try using three solid state relays, and have each of them controlled by a microcontroller (e.g. an Arduino, or ESP32). Each relay would connect a different capacitor to ground (i.e. each relay would allow a single capacitor to discharge). That way the microcontroller could tell relay #1 to close, which would discharge capacitor #1, then tell relay #2 to close, which would discharge capacitor #2, etc.

​

Edit:

Actually, sorry, I misunderstood. They're not trying to stagger the capacitor discharge. But it does seem like they're trying to accurately time the discharge of all 3 at the same time? If that's the case, a single relay + microcontroller would still be helpful. Maybe I'm still misunderstanding though.

Edit #2:

The reason I misunderstood is because many rail guns actually do use multiple staggered electromagnets along the barrel. If you do that, you would want multiple banks of capacitors to discharge at slightly delayed times as the projectile is passing their respective electromagnet.

You can slap a resistor in the circuit and dial in the response time. Or rewire the capacitors to change the circuit capacitance, but that will sacrifice some current which is your driving force for the rod. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_time_constant

A resettable fuse or circuit breaker might work. They come with various trip delays, so you might find something that will open the circuit back up in the right amount of time. I believe larger gauss guns actually use sensors to turn off the circuit once the bullet passes a certain point. By doing that you can add multiple stages to further accelerate the bullet.

I traveled to Ireland once. I made sure to check my devices (chargers) and confirmed they were all auto switching/ranging. I brought a plug adapter, and a power strip so I could plug more than one thing in.

Did not think to check the power strip.

Compression valves like the one you linked will work fine on naked copper, but are useless on threaded pipe.

The major issue will be getting the old valves removed without snapping anything off. If the pipes coming out of the wall are galvanized iron they are a ticking time bomb, but the pipes they are connected to would most likely also be galvanized iron. Ergo, wrenching on those valves could snap off pipe in the wall. You'll have to be very careful, and even that may not be good enough.

Back in the day, I helped out an old man whose bathroom shutoff valves were leaking at the galvanized threads. Was going to try to tighten the valves onto the pipe, but as soon as I bumped the cold valve with a pipe wrench it shot off like a rocket. Water was everywhere in an instant. Oops. Learned that day to shut off water before sneezing on galvanized pipe. It was 1/2" galvanized pipe. Luckily I had some 5/8" fittings which fit well enough into the remaining threads to stop the leak. Considered myself very lucky that the pipe didn't break in the wall while installing.

If I'm seeing things wrong and that's brass coming out of the wall, removing the old valve may not risk snapping the pipe off at the threads going into the valve. However, that piece of pipe is threaded into something and odds are very high that the pipe within the wall is galvanized. I simply cannot tell.

Any surgery involving old galvanized pipe risks opening a pandora's box of plumbing issues. Attempting repair of one bit can lead to the next bit farther back breaking. Attempting to fix that next bit can break the next one back.

I totally get your determination to remove that jackass bandaid job, as redundant nonfunctional valves are stupid and the whole thing looks like shit. I'd definitely handle such an issue myself, as I have all the tools and skills to handle the repair and deal with any resulting damage. However, I fear you may lack a few necessary tools and skills. I encourage getting the tools and earning the skills rather than calling a price gouging vulture in nearly all cases, but this particular mission carries a lot of extra risk and may not be the ideal situation for breaking your plumbing cherry. Adding a valve for the drinking water and dishwasher is much simpler and less prone to causing major issues, albeit another jackass bandaid of a repair.

If you must do this surgery, secure the pipe coming out of the wall with a pipe wrench to make sure the only thing that turns is the old valve you are removing. The new valve must have the appropriate npt threads to fit the old pipe. I'm guessing its 1/2" npt, but it could be 3/4" or an oddball size. Assuming it is 1/2" npt, I would use this type of valve to accommodate the sink and dishwasher/ fridge and add a stop tee on the cold side for drinking water. Obviously longer lines or extensions would be needed to connect the faucet.

They would go right next to the Pillow-Block-Bearings and keep the shaft from moving axially; either a pair on the outside of the 2 of them, or a pair on the inside. I also recommend grinding a flat spot or drilling a dimple into the shaft for the set screw on the collar. This will allow you to lock it to the shaft better.

Thank you so so much!! That was very detailed and helpful!! I really appreciate it!

In case the pipe thread does come off, what would I do? I don’t have access to the other side of the pipe as it’s behind the wall…Would there be a way to fix it with an adaptor or something?

One more question if you don’t mind: Do you think it would be possible to setup a washing machine to get hot/cold water and drain to under the kitchen sink?

Also do you need gas line for the dryer or electric hooked up... Not sure if that was included in the cost as well.

Yea I'm siding with the plumbers here. You need a vent and a proper drain and that's the issue. The water supply is not a problem but to drain and vent properly.

To do this the right way you need access behind your cabinets and to cut along studs to run everything behind the wall. It's a fairly big job, 4000 seems a tad high but not out of line. You might be able to save some money by running the water lines yourself.

You could try an oatey sure vent so you don't have to vent outside but you might find that doesn't fully vent your sewer gas and you'll get smells inside.

Now if anything goes wrong what your concerned about is the 2 pipes coming out of the walls.

These are probably corroded and mostly clogged up. The threads might stay in the valves when you go to remove it.

You may be able to unthread the pipe from the wall and replace that.

The pipe may snap off inside the wall as soon as you touch anything, and necessitate opening the wall and running new pipe to the sink.

Are you including to change the wiring?

My first thought would be to program delay into the system using a microcontroller.

What I would do

Wait til Monday because an emergency plumber on the weekend cost 2x.

Shut off water

Drain system

Careful remove those valves. Unscrew the flex lines. Remove everything coming up from the old valves. Make sure to use 2 wrenches to counter hold the fixture so you don't accidentally snap anything off.

Remove the old valves holding the pipe coming out of the wall. Hopefully the threads stay on the pipe .

If that all comes apart without incident you've pretty much done it.

You need to verify the size of the pipe from the wall- is it 1/2 or 3/8" NPT (national pipe thread)

Find new quarter turn stops that fit that pipe(1/2 FPT(female pipe thread) x 3/8 compression is common)

You can find bullhead stops as well, so each fixture has a valve. 1/2 NPT x 3/8comp x 3/8 comp for dishwasher and likely one with a 3/8 & 1/4 comp for cold side.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-Fip-x-3-8-in-Compression-Quarter-Turn/1001852370

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-FIP-x-3-8-in-1-4-in-OD-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Dual-Shut-off-Valve/1001852394

Now that would work to get you back to where you are now,. looking for a place to connect the fridge.

You can use a compression T https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dial-Brass-Evaporative-Cooler-Water-Hook-Up-Kit/3092871

But I'd use 1/4" copper tubing to connect that tee to the stop.

Then you'll have 2 @1/4 compression and one 3/8 compression fitting for sink, water filter and fridge.

The hot side you'll have 2 @ 3/8 for the faucet and the dishwasher

People do that with dishwashers all the time, yeah.

Clothes washer, idk. They have a pretty high discharge rate. I've never seen it under a sink like your dishwasher is.

I brought in two plumbers a month ago and they both told me I couldn’t do it because I need a SUDS line and they would need to make another vent for the washer and they wanted $4,000+.

I don’t see why I need a SUDS line if it’s a high efficiency washer. Do I still need a SUDS line? Or can I just use my kitchen drain?

For the vent, if I use a 3 inch P-trap, I should have 12 feet worth of room to work with no? I don’t see why there would be a need to install a separate vent for the washer. I’ve also seen online some people just use the same P trap they are using for the dishwasher and kitchen faucet for the washing machine too. So I’m not sure if that’s okay to do here too.

Any ideas?

Thank you so much for all of your help so far!