Sand first, roll on light finishing mud, float with the biggest drywall trowel you can handle, lightly sand, re-coat if needed, paint.

Home Depot sells a few varieties for either floating between joists or butted against a joist. Also make sure you get a retrofit box if you don't have access to replace it from above.

That was the point. It was a joke mate.

I think you are overplaying this, it is not hard to wire a plug safely.

Why are you not capable of wiring up a plug socker safety?

The adapter is either too expensive or too flimsy and doesn't provide good contact. Not to say it looks fugly.

Splicing the power cord is not a rocket science, it's like five minutes of work.

Het is inderdaad M8. Ik ben niet zo bekend met de maten en het leek even op 7mm, dus bedankt voor de extra info!

Best thing to do is swap out the whole fixture. From plug to socket and bulb.

The best thing to do with anything electrical is to just dive right in and do it… if you have a notion… just do it…preferably standing in a bucket of water! Good luck!

5 watts is 20mA @240V, and 40mA @120V

This is negligible.

I cant think of a solution that would be faster then filling the holes individually. If you roll joint compound I imagine you are still going to need to smooth it out, and unless you are good at that it would probably be a pain.

What kind of nail holes, are they small? One idea I can think of is just get a texture hopper and spray the compound on instead. Id do a light/fine texture pattern but just spray it on heavy till the holes are covered lol. Would still probably be longer then filling them individually as you would have to do the whole wall to make it even.

This is true if it's a resistive load. If it's an electronic load (switched psu with 110-240V input), then the load will be the same and the current will be double.

In other words, it's a valid concern for OP, but not necessarily for a low power light bulb.

A good drywaller could do a skim coat of drywall compound and sand it smooth. 2 x 100' walls is a lot of square footage though so expect it to cost a bit for their time.

Make your join before you finish the shaping. That way you guarantee centre. Finding centre is easy tho if you understand mathematics. If you have a circle end; measure the longest line you can internally. Do this at several points. Where they cross is the centre. But yeah; this will fail, woodworking was correct. First real impact and you will have two short sticks with a screw in one end of one of them and a shattered end on the other.

please don't

Plumber here, here's how I would go about it.

Those are either 1/2" brass or painted 1/2" galvanized steel pipes coming from the wall. They should not be black iron, as it was never ok for water, only gas. If you're curious if they are steel or brass, a magnet won't stick to brass. Either way, they both have a 1/2" threaded connection.

The line on the left is hot water, the line on the right is cold. Your dishwasher should be tied into the hot water line.

I would start from scratch and replace both stops.

You'll want 1/2" FIP X 3/8 compression angle stops. You posted a 1/2" compression stop elsewhere, that won't work. You need the 1/2" npt female threaded type, which will probably be listed as 1/2" FIP X whatever size you want to use. Let's go 1/2" FIP X 3/8 compression for both hot and cold. (Note the shortcut below). These angle stop's threaded 1/2" connection to the wall pipes will be the only place you use Teflon tape. Compression and rubber seals do not require it and you might compromise their seals if you do.

Hot side: after installing the angle stop, get a 3/8 X 3/8 brass add-a-tee. One outlet will be for your dishwasher, the other your faucet. Your faucet hose might not reach now, so maybe get a 12" (or whatever length reaches) 3/8 female comp X 3/8 male comp stainless steel braided supply line to bridge the gap.

Cold side: the shortcut would be if you can find this guy. The 1/4" outlet will go to your fridge. The 3/8" outlet, you will add a 3/8X1/4 add-a-tee. The 1/4" port on the add a tee will attach to your white plastic water line (there should be a stainless steel or brass tubular insert inside of the plastic pipe to avoid crushing it when tightening). The other 3/8 port will go to your faucet. Again, you may need another 3/8 female X 3/8 male comp supply line to extend it to reach.

If you can't find the shortcut double angle stop, get another 3/8 X 1/4" add a tee.

That should do it! Hope this helps, I love you.

It's not the same load though. If you cut the voltage in half but consume the same power (because you switched from a European 5W bulb to American 5W bulb) then current needs to double.

I think you have something backwards. A 240v load moved to a 120v circuit should draw half the current or 1/4 the power. Wire size should be fine. You'll have less power than you are used to.

Should be a human right 😅 Thanks!

Any mounted bearing should work.

Here are some links to get you started. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/mounted-bearings https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-collars

Gotcha. I figured the parts you were buying would be roughly the same price as a go kart axle and wheels.

Its save.. but the lights might not be very bright

why should I measure the depth of the walls if the door that's there now is the same dimension of the one I'm gonna buy?

Edit: I get it.. I'm not going to use the frame.. just the door

If you dont mind adapters, you can probably get a travel adapter that converts British/European to American

I agree on FLTDI's advice, but I'm worried that's not your culprit. If rewiring the switch doesn't stop the flicker, keep checking other outlets and lights on that circuit until you find it. I had a light recently that flickered whenever a lamp on the same circuit was turned on. I dragged my feet on investigating, and a couple of days later, it went completely out. When I took down the light and looked at the wires, they had burned up. I was lucky the heat/fire stayed in the box.