Licensed electrician here.

1. I looked at the pictures in your comments. That's not really a mess. The only thing wrong is the use of backstabs.

2. Arcing doesn't usually indicate a nicked wire, it indicates a loose connection 99% of the time. Probably in the backstabs.

3. If you turned off the breaker and the light stayed on but the switch stopped working you likely killed the wrong breaker and the switch is just broken (failing on). Likely due to the backstabs.

4. You need a multimeter to properly troubleshoot.

5. Hire am electrician. The questions you're asking and observations you're making indicate you are woefully under qualified to work on this.

6. Since you're going to ignore point number 5, replace the switch. Pugtail the bottom hots and use the terminal screws this time. I suspect that's the issue, but I can't be 100% certain over the internet.

7. Be careful, good luck.

As long as voltage checks out, just by an adaptor and save yourself the splicing.

[removed]

I’d be willing to bet that the backstabbed connection is failing and that you need to use the screws instead. I hate backstabbed wiring.

Just make sure you measure the depth of your walls correctly. Pre-hung doors are typically made for walls that are built with 2x4 studs and the sticker or packaging will specify this. My house was built in 1973 and the interior walls are built with 2x3’s, so my walls are an inch too thin for a pre-hung door. You can probably guess how I learned that little factoid.

Edited to add that detail. My intent was to pigtail them into one connection but my wording was poor.

Use the little plug switcher thingy

Swap the plug. You've got a very high probability of success with no further action. If the bulb doesn't light or is too dim swap it too but in most cases a European 240v rated incandescent, halogen, or LED bulb will have no issues on US 110v. Rarely, LEDs might not light at all and the others could be dim. So, if you're unlucky you'll need to swap the bulb too.

When going the other direction, US to Europe you need to be a little more careful since running at too high of voltage could pose a fire risk so checking the bulb rating would be prudent. The majority of bulbs are tolerant of the full global voltage range though, it's a lightbulb, not sophisticated equipment.

Don’t put put 2 wires on the same screw. Do it right and splice a pigtail

Best of luck!

There are some led bulbs which are rated for like 90v-240v but these are rare

Will give it a shot tomorrow! Much obliged

Ok yep, I think I'm correct.

Leave the white alone

The bottom black are line. One is hot and the other goes to another switch. The top one goes to your load (lamp fan etc)

The switch looks older. I suggest getting a new single pole switch and wire it exactly the same. FYI some new switches won't have the insert and screw, so you would just put both wires in the bottom on the same screw (with a pig tail)

Ground (bare copper) goes back on the ground.

Make sure when you stuff it all back in the box the ground doesn't hit either of the screws. That can cause a breaker to pop.

https://imgur.com/a/LucPUkZ

In other words… the wheel has a 5/8 bore. Rod is 5/8 diameter, but there’s still a bit of play, so the bearing isn’t snug.

That’s my current setup actually. The steel rod is held rigidly by the conduit clamps. The wheel turns around the rod, and only occasionally “engages” the bearing (it basically moves around the axle without needing the bearing). Is it common/recommended to secure the inner ring of the bearing to the axle so the bearing remains stationary?

Link to imgur in a comment maybe?

I tried posting pics but the post was removed

I think you should probably get a plumber.

You need to at least learn what the common types of connections are and how to make watertight.

It looks like 3/8 pipe coming out of the wall

That valve is definitely not what you want.

If you can find a small, local electrician you'll be much better off. Those huge companies with the fancy commercials and fleet of vans have a huge overhead bill to pay.

Roger that will give it a try. I spent $300 last month just to have a Big Name Electrician Company replace a lightswitch at the same property. Trying to get back in the swing of electronics

3 white are common, they should be connected together and not tied to the switch.

One of the stabbed wires is the load and one is the line. That's normal. The 3rd on the screw is either a continuation of the load or the line, it'll be the same as the screw it is closest to.

Your suggestion of connecting all the black together and white together and having them on one switch is a very wrong idea. Do not do that.

You need to figure out which breaker controls this switch

Figure out which wire is the the line (power supply) will be hot with the switch off.

Then figure out which line is the load.

There is a chance your switch itself is just failing and you need to replace it. But do NOT change the wiring unless you absolutely know what you're dealing with.

If you have any photos it'll be helpful

I have multiple European lamps and a chandelier. All you need is a European to US plug adapter (NOT a power converter) and US bulb. Some bulb sockets are different but usually not. They are widely available online (Amazon, Walmart, Target) and cheap.

If there’s no US equivalent sized bulb, you can sometimes get a socket adapter. I’ve never had an issue with light output being different or using any type of bulb (incandescent, halogen, CFL, LED).

I grew up in Europe and we did the exact same using US lamps. Just slap a plug adapter on and go. Easy peasy.

You've built half a bearing. See how the wood overhangs one half of the axle? You need to have a corresponding piece of wood on the other side of the axle. Two little "legs" and a bridge piece going across the axle would work (An "n" shape").

Or just throw on another washer or two and call it good. I'm pretty sure that would be fine for your golf clubs.

Does it have a power brick somewhere on the line? Many of those are universal and say input power between 100-240v, 50-60 hz and do circuitry to make the device's power. Check out your laptop power brick.