Get some proper pillow-block-bearings and some axle collars and use that to mount the rod instead of the conduit clamps; stronger and then you won’t have to worry about it. Harbor-freight should have everything you need.

Depends a lot on what the intended use is of whatever you're making. Does it need to hold a lot of weight or move at high speeds? If you're building a garden cart, this will.be fi e, if you're building a go-kart, not so much.

I'm not sure if you want to replumb your house, but old brass fittings had lead in them. Newer lead free ones have markings to identify them. Learn more about that here

Technically, double the current will flow through the wire for an American 5W bulb on 120v vs. a European 5W bulb on 240v. It's possible that the wire gauge needs to be bigger for 120v. However, for just a 5W bulb, the wire is likely oversized anyway. You should be fine.

Edit: Wow. ITT people who don't understand electricity but will downvote and say the wrong thing confidently.

Why can't you buy a go kart axle and attach it to the wood? I would imagine a go kart axle parts are readily available and it's a proven system.

There are adapters that convert from European sockets to north American.

Years ago, my wife bought some cheap chandeliers from Christmas Tree shops and they were set up for European use (not sure it was even legal to sell them in the US, but that's another story).

I changed the plugs (actually just cut them off and hard wired them into ceiling mount boxes). Screwed in some cheap adapters from my local electrical supply store, and now we use regular candelabra base bulbs.

I have done this with several European lamps I brought back. Many of the lamp are the same screw bases we use in USA. So it was easy to swap. The latest lamp I used an American LED in the socket.

Wire is wire but both the the plug and socket are different.

I bought a fancy lamp overseas and had to replace one plug and 9 lamp sockets.

A prehung door comes “prehung” in a frame. You’d have to either pull out the existing frame to put in the prehung door, or - I’ve never seen it done but it could be possible - leave the existing frame and buying a prehung door sized to fit inside that frame, similar to what’s done with a replacement window. You’d lose width and height, and you’d probably end up spending a bunch extra to get a custom-size door (it would probably be about 78 in. tall, and about 2 in. narrower than your existing door). You could also cut down an off-the-shelf prehung door and frame to fit the space, but then you’re getting into territory similar to installing a slab. Like I said, I’ve never seen anyone do this - never seen anyone want to shrink their doors - but there’s not really a reason it can’t be done.

As long as the voltage for the bulb is 110v (whether it be from a external brick or not), it will work fine.

edit: corrected voltage

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Right.. I don't think I'd want to install it with a slab door. I definitely would go for prehung.. Prehungs are more money but not so much more to make it cost prohibitive..

I’ll give this a try as well as some thicker screws.

I switched when I saw that, and it's staggering the difference.

He's posted an update or two, but this is the way.

I can't tell from the pics but it looks like black iron which is usually for gas lines. Galvanized or copper for water.

Nice work! I especially love the heated floor. A+++++++

People who have never tried it will assume that a slab door is easier than installing a prehung. Experience shows the opposite is true. A slab (bare door) is cheaper for the initial purchase, but is more difficult to install, and requires additional tools, plus hinges, and way more fussing about.

Search for "slab or prehung door reddit" if you care to see how other redditors have discussed this.

Servpro won’t flood cut the wall unless it’s necessary. The most common reason for this is that there is wet insulation or some other moisture barrier in the wall that won’t dry fast enough to prevent mold growth. If it’s not necessary they will dry it in place.

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For metal use wire instead of toothpicks.

Yeah-true. I guess it can just be kept latched with a hook latch and we just go in and out the other door. Ppl without pets are frequently bad about closing doors behind them, so I wanted something that would latch automatically.

Has to be more sturdy than screen. My cat climbs the doors and dog would absolutely put her nails through it. I thought about wood slats, but it would require a ton of wood cuts.

If it's magnetic, I think a smart cat will figure it out. A hook latch would be easy or even tying it to the doorhandle with a piece of string.

It depends on how much room you have for the lock and if you can close it with the lock in between.

Google keensert, like a helicoil but gives you more depth if you have a little space behind the hinge. Worth a look

They make screens you Velcro or sticky tape to frame. I assume French doors open inwards and this door leads to back yard?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duty-Pets-Proof-Screen-Door-Heavy-Door-Bilateral-Zipper-Prevent-Dogs-Cats-Running-Out-From-Home-Bedroom-Living-Room-Kitchen-Patio-Door-Prevent-Mosqui/1105798510

Etc

Otherwise I would make 2x8 frame from wood (2x2s if you find straight ones) and attach screening material (groove and rubber spline or just wrap in thin wood and staple to frame. Then figure out how to Bungie/ attach frame to both door handles when one is ajar.