Recent comments in /f/DIY

Few_Ad_5677 t1_j611u1c wrote

Reply to comment by Kolada in Washer not draining after supply line burst by Kolada

Unfortunately, not really. I have had a bit of luck one time mashing a screwdriver in there and wiggling it around about… plastic handle only…

That was a weird case where the mechanism was intact but the housing was cracked so the parts weren’t making contact

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The-waitress- OP t1_j610xuq wrote

Reply to comment by dark-archon in Trying to attach a 2x8 grid panel to the frame of a French door to use as a cat-proof gate. I would like it to be on a hinge so it can open and close. Since the panel has 4’’x4’’ openings in the grates, what kind of a hinge should I get? by The-waitress-

Any ideas of a latch or closure? I’d prefer it not be a hook latch, although that may be easiest. Maybe something magnetic or locking?

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The-waitress- OP t1_j610s1w wrote

Reply to comment by dark-archon in Trying to attach a 2x8 grid panel to the frame of a French door to use as a cat-proof gate. I would like it to be on a hinge so it can open and close. Since the panel has 4’’x4’’ openings in the grates, what kind of a hinge should I get? by The-waitress-

Interesting. My boss just suggested something like this, too, but I was having a hard time imagining what he was suggesting. Thank you!

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dark-archon t1_j610dl4 wrote

Reply to Trying to attach a 2x8 grid panel to the frame of a French door to use as a cat-proof gate. I would like it to be on a hinge so it can open and close. Since the panel has 4’’x4’’ openings in the grates, what kind of a hinge should I get? by The-waitress-

I wouldn't use a hinge because it's difficult to attach. I would use something like this https://www.amazon.com/DGOL-Stainless-Screw-Ceiling-Hanger/dp/B0928FRZVJ

And pinch it closed around the side of the grate.

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Becuz_I_Win t1_j60x268 wrote

Reply to Installing Interior Doors in Old Style Door Frames by TheJoker516

I'm in the middle of doing this for an interior door.

Option A is to order a "slab" door. Measure the interior dimensions of your frame, and look for a slab door that matches.

Example: 30x80.

Just know, that slab doors usually require finishing.

  • trimming the sides, routing for the hinges, and boring the holes for the door knob. Some doors have a limit to how much you can trim (ex. <1/4")

Option B is to order a "pre-hung" door. This is more involved since it requires you to remove the old casing and jamb, then replace it with your pre-hung door/casing. I haven't done one of these since it's cheaper and easier for me to install a slab door.

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Material_Swimmer2584 t1_j60w1df wrote

Reply to How long does a ceiling water leak take to dry? by emobe_

In winter it dries much faster because the heat system dries the air out. But if there isn’t circulation, water can get trapped and mold city.

I have opened up my ceiling to air it out because of a leak. After it happened twice I replaced it with an air vent to avoid the problem in future. If I did it again I would cut the hole to match the size of the air vent.

Hopefully helpful. GL

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TommyTuttle t1_j60qjqm wrote

Reply to Could I take the European plug end, cut it off the cord, and wire an American plug end to a light bulb on a wire? by Randomhero360

You probably need a 120 volt light bulb; European power is 240 volts. The bulb that’s in there may work ok or not, depending on its type. LED is often set up with an internal solid state regulator so it’s pretty likely to work well. Incandescent will be dim. Fluorescent will probably not work.

Totally fine to swap the plug tho. Just make sure you can get a 120v bulb to fit that socket. If you can’t, you might replace the whole cord/socket assembly. They can easily be picked up on Amazon or eBay or wherever.

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its8up t1_j60jpts wrote

Reply to comment by Apprehensive-Egg374 in How can I add a second 1/4 inch water line to under my kitchen sink? by Apprehensive-Egg374

It's an apartment. Replacing that stuff isn't on you, but if you alter it and it causes damage that could be on you.

The old valve is brass and some old brass valves had lead, especially in the packing around the valve stem. Also not uncommon for old brass fittings to have a little lead. Does that valve have lead? I dunno.

The shiny spots in the threads on the riser lead me to believe it's brass. That's good. Can't tell for certain if the pipe coming out of the wall is a brass nipple or galvanized. Brass and copper are great for durability. Galvanized sucks, as the protective coating goes away from the inside, which then leads to rusting. The thinnest part of galvanized pipe is where it's threaded, so if it's old and rusted inside that's exactly where it can break off and force you into a plumber or maintenance man situation.

Besides a slight possibility of lead contamination, whatever pipe is bringing water into your house is perfectly suitable for water delivery. The alternative is for the landlord to rip out the entirety of water pipe in the building and replace with pex or copper. Such surgery is very costly, so that is unlikely to happen until the entire building starts having incessant plumbing issues.

Reverse osmosis water filtration can remove nearly all heavy metals and other undesirable crap from the water, so if you're gonna replace anything I'd recommend upgrading to RO for your drinking water and also run the RO to your fridge. Reverse osmosis needs a place to dump the trash water, which would require drilling a hole in the sink drain and installing a fitting (usually comes with the RO kit). You'd also have to replace the drinking water faucet to the one that comes with the RO kit, as it has an air gap (or damn well should) for the trash water. RO systems produce water very slowly, thus they come with a holding tank. It'll still come out slow like the current filter, but you can be assured that it's much cleaner.

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