I've tried this, you have to some seriously strong expensive wood, or have caps on the two parts

Properly drying will go a long way to limit mold (which you will have). To do this requires proper fans and ventilation. Call an expert.

I made two rectangles out of scrap 2 x4s and attached some wheels underneath. Cross piece to connect the two boxes at the proper width for the table legs. The drafting table sits atop the risers with two pieces of small 1/4 inch scrap on each rectangle to keep the table from shifting around. Had bought a children's drafting table when I was in art school because it was that much cheaper and I was an older student with a mortgage to pay. Works great, still use it despite having acquired a standard size drafting table. The wheels ended up being a great decision.

There’s no set time. It depends on what got flooded and what the damage is. You should talk to your insurance company ASAP and have them bring in a remediation team.

Thanks, I watched the video, interesting how many contradictions to other how-to guides. Will give this method a go - it seems easier.

First, you will need to remove the wheels and see if they are bolts.

If they are bolts, measure their width to get their size and replace them with something like this. https://www.meubelpootjes.be/plastic-ronde-meubelpoot-6-cm-m8-k000381

If they are not bolts, see if you can replace them by removing the black inserts in the bottom beams.

Change out your angle valve to a double supply line

The first solution is exactly what I'm hoping for! Do you know what I need to look for to get that done? I don't know what such a connection is called.

You can use a shark bite but I’d go for a more permanent fitting.

An easy/reversable solution would be: If you don't need the wheels, you could put some larger risers in those holes.

More difficult: assuming both legs are hollow, you could cut them near the top. Then you could try to find a small rod that fits into them that you can secure with some bolts drilled through. But be careful because it can affect the stability of the table.

Yes, it's a pretty simple job.

First, get a pair of channel locks / slip joint pliers. I like the Knipex style, and think that's a great tool to have in a small toolbox. e.g. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/single-pliers/adjustable/12-in-fast-adjust-water-pump-pliers-56749.html You want to to be firm with them while not crushing them, and make sure you're turning the right way. But generally they aren't difficult. And those parts are cheap to replace, worst case.

Second, someone has already messed those up. Those fittings do not need teflon tape, but there it is. Those make a flared seal with a gasket. It's either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1-1-2-in-Sink-Drain-Pipe-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Nut-with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089 Chances are fair that the gasket is missing. If you have a bit of water under the sink from time to time, getting a gasket in there will fix that.

Have a good basin to put under all that for the stuff that will pour out. It's important to get one that fits reasonably well with high enough sides, or it's easy to make a mess.

If it's a hardwood and you have a power drill, leave the ends long, chuck on a finishing nail driven into the long end and have a friend spin it in a plastic v-notched guide while you hold a sanding block to chamfer.

For your assembly guide, if pieces are straight and round you only need a piece of angle iron or similar long V-section thing and it will align perfectly. Use a small compass or miter square to find center and punch it before pilot drilling a 1/8" hole through a guide block set perpendicular.

What's the foundation wall?

I really like the insulfast/ramset - really quick no no fiddling around. Click, bang done.

Just unscrew. The first photo has a compression fitting that slides up and down the drain tube.

In the second photo, some idiot has applied Teflon tape to the threads. Not needed as the seal in that connection is mating two surfaces. Teflon tape never to be used.

Fair enough. What’s the proper adhesive for rigid foam against a vapor barrier? (I would assume I could put foam on the vapor barrier I have, wouldn’t have to put it under it and against the CMU?)

Those are (usually) in the bathroom.

It's just, different. Apples to oranges really.

Insulating the floor effectively turns the floor into an exterior wall..

Encapsulation keeps the exterior, to the actual outside and elevates the 'envelope' performance of your home, which is typically a massive gain in terms of energy efficiency ~and air quality.

I've never approached this from the perspective of floor temperature, it's always been more of an efficiency and air quality exercise.

Thanks for the tips! I was thinking of using the red Loctite threadlocker for one of the threaded rods. Do you have a different one you would suggest instead?

Also, how can I chamfer the rod? I have limited tools at home (small apartment really) but if it is something handheld I could buy it online.

Don’t forget to wrap the middle with friction tape, hot pink or magenta should do it.

Donatello, I told you NO INTERNET. You're grounded for another week.

Came here for it. Found it.

Pee Trap :)

You could also use a tool like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Toolwiz-Upgrade-2pcs-Adjustable-Reinforced-Mechanics/dp/B07G5Q4MNZ/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool&qid=1674753611&sr=8-14

For sure! I had one quote it with the sump pump work but ended up saying no because of the cost. I had them run 12 mil white vapor barrier up every wall, however, so I have a head start.

So, in terms of floor warmth and energy savings- is a full encap equivalent to insulating just the floors? Cost aside.

• Yes, it should unscrew. If you can't do it by hand, try wearing a rubber glove or using a washcloth to gain more grip on it.
• Make sure you're turning it the correct direction. Sometimes when it's at an odd angle, your mind has trouble telling which way is counterclockwise.
• If you used Drano and it didn't help the clog, that Drano is likely at the bottom of your P-trap, so wear goggles at least to protect yourself against it splashing out when you remove the trap.