Yes the second one comes apart as well. Make sure you are turning it the right way. It appears the nut is on the bottom and the threads on the top. If this is the case, you want to turn it to the left from your point of view.

You should be able to turn it by hand, but if not get a set of slip joint pliers to help.

You can also try one of those cheap plastic snakes if chemicals didn't do it.

Yeah that coupling ring is threaded and will unscrew. Make sure you are trying to turn it the right way - the ring in the 2nd photo will unscrew downwards and stay on the elbow.

Don't worry too terribly much about breaking something - you've got a couple more fittings before you lose the pipe to the wall. Should be easy replacements if something does break.

It is now required to have a grounding conductor run back to the main panel from the subpanel. The ground and neutral are kept separate in the subpanel. This is to ensure that the circuit breakers will trip if there is a short circuit to ground. The resistance in the earth is too high to carry enough current back to the main panel to trip the breakers.

You also need a ground rod connected to the grounding terminal strip in the subpanel for lightning protection.

Many many years ago it was acceptable to just have the ground rod without a grounding conductor back to the main panel. That is no longer permitted in the National Electrical Code.

Remove that green screw in the upper right part of the neutral terminal strip

(P trap)

This one gang kept wanting me to join because I’m pretty good with a bo staff.

I used to build pool cues for a living. We would use a lathe to install the joint pin but...

https://www.cuestik.com/5/16-14-titanium-self-aligning-joint-pin/qtipin-14/

That's the link to buy the joint pins. If you get one that is 3/8-10, it is meant to screw directly into wood in the shaft without an insert. That will be easier on your end.

When you drill for both sides of the joint pin (the butt and shaft sides), have both the butt and shaft over sized. So if and when you probably miss the exact center on both, you'll be able to screw it together, then sand the joint together. Then you'll have a perfectly matched joint between the two.

If you have a drill press, you can make this handy jig for making holes in wooden staff sections.

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Fuck. You're in an apartment? Definitely do the suggested route instead of moving the npt tee. You don't want to do anything that could break stuff and cause water damage. Your deposit is at stake.

Edit: swypo

I bet a 3d printed guide will get you really close. Certainly close enough that you'll be able to pretty easily hand sand it down to perfectly smooth. Just construct the joint before you do the final sand and finish on the staff.

You might also want to permanently fix the threaded rod into one side with epoxy or permanent threadlocker. That will probably help it always land in the same alignment when you screw it together, to avoid feeling a lip.

Ever so slightly chamfering the edges where it meets is probably also a good idea. It'll make a slightly recessed ring where the sides meet, but that's better than a ledge, and will help avoid splinters.

The tee you're talking about has npt threads. Always use thread sealer, such as Teflon tape, on npt threads.

Looks like a close (short) nipple going from valve to tee, then of course a longer nipple used as a riser. I can't tell what material the supply lines are made of, tho. If they're galvanized, find another way to perform this surgery. If the supply is pvc, just be careful. If it's copper you'll still have to be careful, though it's far less prone to snapping off in your hand and causing a mess.

Suggestion: Since you don't trust the original shutoff, install a shutoff valve on the existing tee for the fridge cold water supply line and add a 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 stop tee to the hot side for your dishwasher supply line. Some day you may find it very useful to shut off the water supply to the fridge for a couple days and still have a cold water supply. Your local hardware store should have all those parts, but often the bastards don't.

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Pex is the easiest solution you can get an adapter for 1/2 threaded pipe and then use shark bite fittings or get pex crimp rings and the tool to tighten them. Copper would require you to solder at some juncture. But again I'd need to see your whole system to give you the best options. YouTube is your friend. Plenty of videos on all the connectors and ways to accomplish this.

Get some cans/tubes of various sizes, cardboard might be easier. On the inside of the cans attach/glue thin (disposable) decorative items—leaves, bottle caps, bark, sticks, trinkets, stencils—anything that would leave an interesting impression.

Pour concrete in, insert eye anchor with a pencil or other straight thing to hold the eye up above the concrete.

If you've got room, an expansion tank would solve both problems, RO filters are quite slow so a lot come with 3 gallon white expansion tanks that fill up with RO water then give you fast flow and great pressure when you're actually using it.

Once the main is being shut off, is it hard to replace the old shut off valve on the bottom and the pipe? If not, what should I replace then with?

Lmaoo damn. So then I guess I should replace it? What should I replace it with?

This is only if you can hold the work centered on its axis, it's why 4 jaw chucks on lathes exist, to both hold something precisely centered, or to hold things off center and make holes/do work on them.

Those old ass valves are likely junk.

That's why they added more valves.

If you are going to move that DW T you're going to have to shut off the main.

Any threaded pipe needs pipe dope.

Compression fittings (like dishwasher line and faucet lines) don't need anything as they are a mechanical seal and they'll have a rubber gasket in the end of the line

The dishwasher should have a separate shut off. If you are doing it,do it right and add one.

I've seen instructions that do either hot or cold - I think it comes down to what your heat source is and how long the run from heater to dishwasher is.

Yea I think they used black iron 🤣. Definitely not done by a plumber.

How thick is the bow staff? You might not have a lathe, but you might find that putting the rough staff in a drill chuck is enough, assuming the staff fits. If it fits, you can then use the drill to turn the staff fast enough to sand it down.

I do own the apartment. Does this picture help identify the pipe?

https://imgur.com/a/LKcu7xl

Yep. It should. I'm not telling you to mount the dowel and use the drill as a lathe, but I've seen it done.

You've made many bad decisions.

First and foremost, any change if plane or material should not be grouted.

https://youtu.be/_DI4hfHM_Hg - watch this. This is the definitive guide that will set you right.