Appreciate it :) I will check it out in the morning.

Absolutely, happy to help.

It’s really hard to tell from the picture, but the only time I’ve not seen sheathing used was on a shed and screened in porch, stuff that doesn’t really matter too much. I would be really surprised if there wasn’t any. I’m not am engineer, so I can’t say for sure, but I was always told the sheathing does provide a bit of rigidity and shear strength to the structure.

Sheathing is typically OSB so it is possible that it was a weak spot that crumbled out or the builder just cut it a bit short, that wouldn’t be a super weird thing to see and probably the most likely. It also depends on how old the house is. I actually don’t know when they first started using OSB or Plywood as sheathing but it could be completely different if its pretty old, I’ve seen a couple houses built circa 1910 that just had boards. If you’re really gentle with the siding, you might be able to pull it back a bit to get a better look.

Thank you! This gets attached to the 1/4 end of the Tee I already have right? And then I attach the two water lines I want to add to the shark bite tee?

No worries, sometimes easier to take a step back and think of what else it is similar to, not different to.

But also, way way better to ask before guessing on wiring haha

You have a couple prescriptive options available in the model code if you go the path of insulating the walls, which is a good choice. Look at R408.3 in the International Residential Code - it spells it out pretty clearly. For a more plain-language perspective explanation, I’d check out the Fine Homebuilding article “crawlspaces that work.” Code available here: https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P1/chapter-4-foundations

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. As for the last picture, I could not see (perhaps due to a lack of experience) any sheathing around the bottom plate. Is it possible that there is no sheathing or sheathing that degraded over /the years?

Does the washer have a drain and spin mode? If so, do you hear the pump at all?

Depending on the washer model, there may be a service menu to allow you to test the drain pump.

Sometimes the manufacturer hides a service manual inside the machine, you have to remove the top and look in the corner next to the drum.

You could probably also just use a ¼in sharkbite tee

Ooo interesting. I had to pull it out to replace the lines. I'll check for level

Did you move the washer and maybe it's not level? My washer did the same thing because it wasn't level.

This is spot on.

The blade is following the grain, and curving off with it.

I've forked out for a nice circular saw that's compatible with my existing battery packs which I've wanted for ages. I Also grabbed a blade that can also cut plastic and aluminium as I do a bit of work with those.

Are you saying that the neutral in this photo (black and yellow) was improperly placed? I am glad I was right in my initial thinking then. I will need to fish a ground from this panel back to the main.

Thank you. I think I’m ASHRE zone 4. Central WV (not the mountains). Winters are not typically severe but can be single digits a few times and we recently had negatives (dry bulb) during this bomb cyclone.

So you recommend if I insulate, do it at the walls mainly because of the moisture issue?

I realize I didn’t answer your whole question. Typical temps in the crawl space during winter are probably 55-60. Long t shirt feels perfect, short sleeve if working. Humidity is typically high. We had to install a vapor barrier and sump pumps. It gets foundation run in from one side. Correcting the swale outside is on my list for things this summer but part of the issue is a cement slab that needs raised. May not be able to handle that. In other words I expect it to always have some water coming in when rainy/snowy. I plan to NOT cover over the boards in that area to let them keep breathing and I intend to place a dehumidifier in that area of highest humidity/source.

Knowing if you are in a heating or cooling dominated climate is helpful here.

You want your thermal barrier and air barrier at the same boundary.

If you insulate the floor the space below will certainly get colder. Would the pipes be in the spray foam? that might be safe enough in terms of freezing. Do you have a sense for how cold it gets down there currently in the winter?

If you insulate the crawl space walls then you will want to seal up the vents to the crawl space.
Moisture is a concern, dehumidification can get expensive. An exhaust fan on a humidistat might accomplish what you need at a lower operating expense.

Since you have pipes and ducts down there I would seal the crawlspace and put in mechanical ventilation and or other moisture control.

IIRC neutral/ground MUST NOT be bonded at the subpanel. The subpanel should have two bars, the neutral should be isolated. Ground in the sub should be connected to the main ground, the ground rod should be tied into the sub ground.

But you should definately check with a sparky

There are conflicting ways to do this because of differing circumstances (and sometimes because of various regulatory agencies "knowing" best).

When doing electrical work, if it isn't intuitive to you (because you understand it and have experience with it), you really should run your plan past someone who can look at it, including your local building inspector.

I’m not a siding guy so I couldn’t say for sure but in general you’d have a siding, moisture barrier, sheathing, framing/insulation, probably another vapor barrier, then sheetrock, so if mice were getting in under your siding I would expect to see some kind of holes in your interior, that’s where I would look and I’d spray foam it. It’s just kind of a lot of layers for them to go through, not to say that they couldn’t but I’ve more commonly seen them get through areas around windows and doors. I have seen where they will come through siding and nest in the walls.

If you have a crawl space with ductwork in it I’d check around there too. If there is a gap between the duct and subfloor they could probably squeeze through the floor register.

Edit: the other pictures with the cracked foundation could be patched with a concrete epoxy or a concrete patch and repair mix like quickcrete. The picture where you can see 2x4 looks like your bottom plate and you could take a sealant like NP1 rated for exterior use to it. I’d try to lay a bead of it between the bottom plate, sheathing, and foundation rather than the siding. The siding probably does need to breath to eliminate moisture but I would also say due to the technique used to install the siding it shouldn’t see much; assuming it was done correctly. Basically it’s overlapped like that so water runs down and off.

I should have been more clear, too. It is a common issue where that tube gets clogged, and the washer can't tell if there is water in the tub, so shuts down, leaves the tub full, and won't spin or drain. I replaced my washer recently, but I had to do the clearing of this tube maybe four times over the years. Again, I don't think it's likely here, but worth a shot. You may even see something when the washer is open.

Might give this a try first, thanks. It wasn't submerged, but the water was staying at the back of the washer for days so I would be surprised if waster didn't make its way in.

I throw away practically nothing. I have 2 containers (costco size containers from mixed nuts): 1 for salvaged screws and 1 for salvaged bolts. I have smaller containers for washers and nuts. After that, I have a small shelf system that I built from MDF trim and hardboard where I keep the 1 lb boxes of fasteners from the big box stores. I have very few nails. Most of my boxed screws are Phillips head with lengths from 3/4 to 1.5 inch. I then have a 1 lb box of 3 inch torx head screws. I was fortunate (?) enough to have a contractor leave a 20 lb box of drywall screws (1 5/8" I believe) after they finished my job. I, nor any of my friends, will ever have to buy drywall screws for the rest of our lives

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Was the pump submerged or otherwise well-soaked? That would probably do it.

There are some videos on youtube on how to clear gunk out of the hose for the water-level pressure switch, it's really easy, but I would question whether that was the issue here. But, totally worth it since it's easy and costs nothing.

Even for non-GE washers, this is relevant and should be easy to follow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oosLzA9duzE

And in that video, he replaces it, but you really only have to disconnect the hose at the bottom, and use some kind of slim tool to scoop out the soapy lint.

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For 1/2, 3/4, 1.0, 1.5 screws, I usually get coarse drywall screws. They are so cheap they are hard to beat. I hate Philips, but...they are cheap.

for 1.0, 1.5 2.0, 2.5, 3.0 I get #8 deck screws with a T25 head.

https://fascofas.com/products/green-color-t25-torx-star-drive-deck-screws-deck-dock-fence-building-construction-fasteners

They take a 1/8th inch drill for a pilot hole, and you can get a cheap 3-pack of 1/8th inch drills with hex shank so they will work in a drill, and also in a 1/4 hex shank driver.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-impact-rated-hex-shank-titanium-drill-bit-set-3-piece-64889.html

For bolts, I always keep some 1/4-20 in several lengths. Anything else and I just go to the store if I really need a different size.

I got the 18V Ridgid brushless compact driver specifically because it has the shortest head for getting into tight spots. Nothing wrong with DeWalt/MilwaukeeMakita/etc, but...You can always add an extension, but you cant make it shorter. Others are stronger, but this one will drive T25 deck screws all day.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-Brushless-Compact-Impact-Driver/dp/B09PPZDK9N/ref=sr_1_5

1/4-drive and 3/8ths adapters allow you to drive nuts and bolts with a socket set the 1/2 inch drive never gets used.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hex-shank-socket-driver-set-3-piece-68513.html

I buy peanuts in clear plastic bottles to use the empty bottle to store screws and nails in. Look for a large opening screw-top lid. I prefer the square shaped bottles. Sams Club, Costco, Menards

https://www.menards.com/main/black-friday-2022/fisher-reg-dry-roasted-peanuts-36-oz/7069069824/p-1444436540856-c-13917.htm