[removed]

There won't be any issues doing that.

Thanks for these tips. If I paint over, it would leave a discolored spot no?

Also should I sand down the old paint too? I guess the wood filler will hide the ridges?

Is wood filler okay to use even if the window frame is not real wood. It seems be to compressed wood dust?

Shim up the hook side of the latches so the re level with each other.

Could old school it. All RCA, chop the speaker end off. Easy peasy.

I just debated this exact thing last fall. I really wanted a full encapsulation of my crawl space, but the price was crazy. I only have a 900 sq ft crawlspace and encapsulation came out to $13.50 sq ft. I live in Western Washington (Seattle area), so we do have a decent amount of rainfall and wet conditions most of the year, but with a fully vented crawlspace I have never had any issues with humidification or water in my crawlspace.

I decided against using a closed cell spray foam for the joists, not only because of the price, but also the horror stories I have read about the possible problems with off-gassing that has plagued the industry for years. I probably wouldn't be unlucky enough to be "that one in a million situation, but...I am Murphy's bitch sometimes. One bad install and you are never removing the spray foam to try it again.

I will use closed-cell for tight, hard to reach areas, or for the rim joist bays to get a 100% seal, but not in the open bays.

I got 3 quotes from different companies and ended up with , $900 for a 10 mill vapor barrier, $3,600 for the vapor barrier and R30 insulation in the floor joists, and $12,000 for Vapor barrier, floor insulation, R10 rigid insulation on the stem walls, 100% sealing, and installing a dehumidifier (electrical work was not included as I have dedicated outlets in my crawlspace already).

So $1.00 sq ft for 10 mil Vapor barrier$3.00 sq ft for R30 floor insulation$9.00 sq ft for rigid insulation and full seal (but also includes the cost of a dehumidifier...roughly $1100 is my guess)

https://imgur.com/a/T2LyCsX

I decided not to do the encapsulation and just did the vapor barrier and floor insulation, and then wrapped the exposed plumbing in neoprene insulation after the crawlspace company was done. I am still considering installing the Rigid insulation and sealing the crawlspace up myself this year.

I talked with 3 different crawlspace companies in my area and got the same basic answer, and roughly the same pricing. All three said they almost never do full encapsulation in my area unless there is a water problem in addition to the insulation need. I dont know if this is true, but I got it from 3 different sources that could have had an easy upsell, but they all talked me out of it. It could be with how busy companies were last year, but I am leaning towards believing them.

One thing 2 of them brought up (and I found in my online DIY researching) was if you do a full encapsulation you need to provide conditioned air from the living space down into the crawlspace and let it recirc back up into the house (if you are 100% sealing) to get the benefit of a true air-insulation barrier in the crawlspace. I've redone the floors in my house and have been sealing every crack in the floor prior to this, so now I would most likely need to cut holes somewhere in my floor to provide supply and return air to the crawlspace. Not a big deal, just something I have been reading about. You also need a dehumidifier down in the crawlspace and there is maintenance to think about on that piece of equipment as well as power and probably hiring and electrician on top of the install.

[deleted]

They also make gas "wood" stoves that may accomplish what you're looking for.

Glad I could help, it's a really neat looking case!

Of course there's no smell. CO is odourless. And deadly.

What you want is spring loaded toggle latches.

Thank you ! Thats what I ended up doing and it worked great :) just needed a 2 pieces of wood

You could use stronger latches or add a small lip on the inside of the side of the case with the handle on it or the outside of the side of the case without the handle

I don’t think banana plugs will fit. These systems come with cables that have rca plugs on one end and bare conductors on the other end. You can insert the bare conductors while pressing on the button with the 6 dots shown in the linked picture provided by op.

This is also shown on page 13 of the installation manual https://assets.bose.com/content/dam/Bose_DAM/Web/consumer_electronics/global/products/speakers/ls28_series3/pdf/ig_en_lsiii.pdf

you need stronger latchs.

I believe that there are more tactful ways of putting it. I'm not OP's lawyer though.

Yep. Regularspeakers.subwoofers

Hygrometer on Amazon. I think they are two for $12.

leave one in there and pay attention to the humidity level during rainy days and in humid summer.

Maybe scrub off what you can reach with soap.

If you are worried about it still. Either spray bleach water in there from the top down and hope to shock the mold.spores that could float around the house. Or get ozone blasted in there to kill the spores. Unless you have a cooky friend with an ozone machine like me you probably need a pro for that.

There's also one non chemical option . It's called benefect and it's mostly essential oils. I hired a pro to apply it in a clients house once. Way safer than the hard stuff. GL

As a master electrician and an EET, your right, I do know enough to be dangerous, but I also understand residential load calculations, and that not everything turns on at once. If those are the ideas you are trying to scare people with, then every house in the world would trip under full load of all the breakers, but that’s not how it works/calculated, but you would know that if you were an electrician. Just saying 🤷

While there are plenty of vented or ventless fireplaces on the market, I'd imagine different types are prevalent in different markets.

Mine is vented, and I'm looking to replace it, as I can feel cold air coming in through the vent. My house is clearly losing a lot of energy just from having a fireplace.From my brief reading on the topic, vented fireplaces are typically around 70% efficient, while ventless ones are generally in the neighborhood of 95%+ efficient. So that's a consideration.

However, given the recent research on how NOx and carcinogens can build up in the home from gas stoves (even when turned off), I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of putting a ventless gas appliance in the home.

I would say if your priority is energy efficiency, you should probably just seal off the fireplace and maybe put in an electrical insert if you want some type of ambiance. If you want a gas fire because you like having a real fire, I'd put in a vented gas insert. But realize it would be the least energy efficient way to heat your home.

yes, you can. but.... Look at your local building code and check with your home insurance provider. Fires inside your house are nothing to eff around with willy-nilly. I'd first check that you have enough room in your chimney/flue to fit the proper size vent. I'd avoid ventless gas just like I'd avoid an open fireplace, you don't want to be creating a lot of air pollution to be trapped inside with.

but real fireplaces are so nice! there is nothing comparable to a real fire.

I have a brand new house in Maine with a gas fireplace. You can definitely heat the house with it. You don’t need to open the windows for it and there’s no smells from it.

But gas is expensive and I have a giant solar array and Minisplits, so I mostly just use those to heat the house since there’s no fuel costs with them.

Thank you for your reply. I have a electrician in the neighborhood I reached out to, to come by and take a look. I’ll update this as I complete the work.